Agree, anything less than 10G/38L is really pretty small.
On the 90L/24G you would want to plan to stick to 24 inches of mature fish body of average shape (fins don't count) as the guideline for the first year and a half or so. This helps to ensure beginner success, after which you could consider what sort of "overfiltration" you might want to do if you wanted to overstock the tank - at least that would be my recommendation.
Your current 6 platies, at 3 inches (their mature size) have used up 18 of your 24.
Ten platies, at 30 inches would already be overstocking the tank.
Why the emphasis on not overstocking a tank? With an overstocked tank, sometimes all it takes is an unexpected weekend out of town when you can't do your normal weekly water change and suddently you find that you've got ammonia and nitrite in the tank and nitrates are higher than you'd like. It can happen rather quickly. Even if you do a lot of maintenance and avoid this problem it creates more stress in your life worrying about is my feeling.
To answer your question about your nitrate(NO3) level, our guideline for a window to shoot for is as follows: a max of 15 to 20ppm above whatever your tap water nitrate level is.
So if your tap water measures zero ppm NO3, then you'd want your gravel-clean-water-changes to be maintaining the nitrate(NO3) at not more than about 20ppm. If your tap water NO3 level was 10ppm then the limit you like to see would be 30ppm. If the nitrate just holds somewhere in there then your maintenance regimen is working, if it keeps creeping upward on you then that calls for more frequent cleaning or larger percentage water changes or both.
This is after cycling of course. The end of a fish-in cycle is when you can go for a week without changing water and not any traces of ammonia or nitrite showing up in your tests.
~~waterdrop~~