In The Beginning There Was A Tank.....a Small Tank

daizeUK said:
Strange that your nitrates are showing yellow.  They should definitely not be zero.
Yes, if ammonia and nitrite are both clear zero after 24 hours then water change and do a maintenance feed on Wednesday is a good idea.  Otherwise continue giving a full dose as long as ammonia < 0.25 and nitrite <1ppm until they are both clear zero.
Do you think I'm doing something wrong as my Nitrates are 0?  How can I bring them back up and what should they be? I've added the Ammonia (full amount) tonight and will check back tomorrow.  Maybe the Nitrate will be better then.......Oh I hope so
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It looks like your nitrate disappeared between posts #53 and #56 on 7th & 8th October.
It was very high on the 7th and that nitrate certainly didn't go anywhere overnight, so it's safe to assume that the problem is with the test and the nitrate is still there.
Either the test was done incorrectly or your nitrate is so high that it is now off the scale and the test can no longer read it.  Given that you had high ammonia and nitrite levels, I suspect it is off the scale.
If nitrate gets too high there is a danger that it can cause a pH crash and stall the cycle.  Your pH has been a steady 7.6 so it looks fine for now but full doses of ammonia will send the nitrate higher still.
I would do a 50% water change at this point to bring your nitrate down just to be on the safe side.  Another alternative is to add sodium bicarbonate to the tank to raise your KH and this will help buffer your pH and keep it up.
 
daizeUK said:
It looks like your nitrate disappeared between posts #53 and #56 on 7th & 8th October.
It was very high on the 7th and that nitrate certainly didn't go anywhere overnight, so it's safe to assume that the problem is with the test and the nitrate is still there.
Either the test was done incorrectly or your nitrate is so high that it is now off the scale and the test can no longer read it.  Given that you had high ammonia and nitrite levels, I suspect it is off the scale.
If nitrate gets too high there is a danger that it can cause a pH crash and stall the cycle.  Your pH has been a steady 7.6 so it looks fine for now but full doses of ammonia will send the nitrate higher still.
I would do a 50% water change at this point to bring your nitrate down just to be on the safe side.  Another alternative is to add sodium bicarbonate to the tank to raise your KH and this will help buffer your pH and keep it up.
Hi daize
OK I took your advice and did a 50% water change (with tap conditioner 
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) today.  Before I did though, I did a test and took a pic as usual.
20131014_112237_resized.jpg
Looks to me like the Nitrate is just slightly darker yellow than the 0ppm yellow.  Maybe it's about 1ppm? Anyway.....What do I do now? Shall I test again in a day or so?  Is there going to be enough Ammonia left now and do I need to add more? I promise I will not do anything now until I see your reply.  I'll check in later this evening.
 
Thank you so much for all your help.  I really appreciate it.
 
If you test nitrate again after your water change I would expect it to read about 80ppm.
From your picture it looks to me like ammonia is about 0.25ppm and nitrite is zero, so yes you should add a full dose again.
 
daizeUK said:
If you test nitrate again after your water change I would expect it to read about 80ppm.
From your picture it looks to me like ammonia is about 0.25ppm and nitrite is zero, so yes you should add a full dose again.
OK did the water change.  Tested and got this
20131014_130835_resized.jpg
I read the API instructions to make sure I was doing it right (I was Honest!!!!).  To me it looks like it's between 5 and 10ppm.
I've added the full amount of Ammonia now.  Do you think I should just check in 24 hours or so?
 
Yep, check every 24 hours.  If your ammonia is 0.25 or under and nitrite is 1ppm or under then do another full dose until they're both zero in 24 hours.
You definitely have more nitrates than that, nitrates don't just disappear.  There's something funny going on there.  If nitrates appear to drop to zero again then I'd do another large water change.
When you do a full dose of ammonia, how many ppm are you adding?  It should be 3ppm.
 
daizeUK said:
Yep, check every 24 hours.  If your ammonia is 0.25 or under and nitrite is 1ppm or under then do another full dose until they're both zero in 24 hours.
You definitely have more nitrates than that, nitrates don't just disappear.  There's something funny going on there.  If nitrates appear to drop to zero again then I'd do another large water change.
When you do a full dose of ammonia, how many ppm are you adding?  It should be 3ppm.
OK great.  I use the Ammonia Calculator on the Fishless cycle page.  I input 20litres (my tank size), desired level 3ppm and 5% ammonia in solution.  This gives me 1.2ml as a full dose.  I hope this is right!
 
I'll check tomorrow and let you know.
 
Cheers
 
Are you sure you are doing the nitrate tests right?
 
Give the bottle a REALLY good shake, for over a minute, bang it against a table, just make sure it is a really good shake! Then do similar to the test tube.
 
Do you have a LFS near you that could test your water? It may be worth getting them to test your water for nitrate, just to be sure that your kit isn't faulty. 
 
Hey Daize and Blondie, look what's happened.....
20131016_091743_resized.jpg
Daize, I think that water change did the trick.  Nitrate is at about 20ppm. Also the Ammonia (full amount) has been processed (ok, it's just over 24 hours, but I was working until midnight last night!!).  Oh Wow am I nearly there?
 
Arrrrrgh!!!  What now......I'm not panicking.....OK I am!!!!!
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 In a good way though!
 
Looking forward to your comments.  And once again thank you
 
 
Well you've just processed a full load of nitrite which would explain where the 20ppm nitrate has come from.  I still don't understand where the rest of your nitrate disappeared to!
It does look like you're cycled now.  If you want you can give it one more test to make sure it is processing in 24 hours.  Otherwise I'd say you're ready for the final water change before stocking.
 
daizeUK said:
Well you've just processed a full load of nitrite which would explain where the 20ppm nitrate has come from.  I still don't understand where the rest of your nitrate disappeared to!
It does look like you're cycled now.  If you want you can give it one more test to make sure it is processing in 24 hours.  Otherwise I'd say you're ready for the final water change before stocking.
OK, I've added a full load.  Will test again tomorrow.  If it's ok, I will do the large water change tomorrow and look to stock on Saturday.  My water temperature is around 20 degrees. does that sound ok to you?
 
Someone recommended Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium Balls and a small strip of Poly Filter to help maintain the tank, once the fish are in.  Do you have any thoughts on these things?
 
Your temperature will depend on your stocking.  Which fish are you planning to get?
Some people like Evo Pure balls but personally I wouldn't say that they are necessary.  I'm not familiar with Poly Filter, what does it do?
 
daizeUK said:
Your temperature will depend on your stocking.  Which fish are you planning to get?
Some people like Evo Pure balls but personally I wouldn't say that they are necessary.  I'm not familiar with Poly Filter, what does it do?
Not sure what fish yet.  Had some suggestions earlier in this thread.  I've got a great independent aquatics place near to me so have been recommended to go there.
 
Here's a link to the poly filter http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/poly-filter/ what do you think.  I saw this youtube vid as well and this guy says it's good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZVwnGOFdds
 
Poly-Filter will remove all of these chemicals including:
  • Proteins and Amino Acids
  • Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia
  • Phosphates (the principal cause of algae in the aquarium)
  • Toxic Metals
 
 
I wouldn't use it.  You've just built up a nice healthy population of bacteria, why deny them a food source? 
Regular water changes will keep everything else at manageable levels.
 
If you're thinking of putting plants in the tank they will do all of this anyway.
 
daizeUK said:
 
Poly-Filter will remove all of these chemicals including:
  • Proteins and Amino Acids
  • Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia
  • Phosphates (the principal cause of algae in the aquarium)
  • Toxic Metals
 
 
I wouldn't use it.  You've just built up a nice healthy population of bacteria, why deny them a food source? 
Regular water changes will keep everything else at manageable levels.
 
If you're thinking of putting plants in the tank they will do all of this anyway.
 
Brill ok. I've come this far, think I'll take your advice.  I'll let you know what's happening tank wise tomorrow.
 

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