I'm a little confused at my current nitrite testing - it's a blue color that doesn't really match any of them. Is it 0 or am I reading some?
Ask Questions About Cycling
You need to put the tube flat on white paper and have light going trough.
The color on the Print is slightly greenish but a solid blue in the tubes means 0. It turns purple when nitrite are present.
The color on the Print is slightly greenish but a solid blue in the tubes means 0. It turns purple when nitrite are present.
The API nitrite zero is usually described as sky blue - and that's what your test is showing.
I've had charts over the years which don't match previous ones - I once had a nitrite chart which was too pink.
I've had charts over the years which don't match previous ones - I once had a nitrite chart which was too pink.
Thank you, both. 2 weeks in to the cycle today, no nitrites and ammonia looks a little less than 1 ppm. I will keep testing and be patient. 
Thank you, both. 2 weeks in to the cycle today, no nitrites and ammonia looks a little less than 1 ppm. I will keep testing and be patient.
Are you doing a fishless cycle ?
If yes you can add ammonia up to 3-4 ppm without plants, if you want, I prefer to use around 2 ppm with plants, this way the nitrite spike is a lot smaller. Once they are going the colony adjust pretty fast afterward.
Have you used something to kick start the cycle ? After 2 weeks nitrite should be very close to appear.
Yes, it's a fishless cycle. I added 2 ppm ammonia from the Dr. Tim's bottle on the first day. I have not added any more since - should I? I had planned to add more once the nitrites appear. Ammonia has dropped to about 1 ppm.
I also used Seachem Stability for the first 7 days but have since stopped. It's a 5 gallon tank with fake plants.
I never used Stability. The process should be similar, but the "timing" could differ.
- Day 1 – dose ammonia to 2 ppm ammonia-nitrogen [NH3-N] using our ammonium chloride (1 drop per gallon [After Nov 2016 when using DrTim’s ammonium chloride use 4 drops per gallon]) [NOTE: do not expect your test kit to exactly read 2 ppm and it is not critical to get exactly 2 ppm. The key is to not add too much ammonia]. If using DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying bacteria add it now (turn skimmer, UV and ozone off and remove filter socks for 48 hours).
- Day 2 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
- Day 3 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add more ammonia: four drops of our ammonium chloride per gallon (check the label).
- Days 4 & 5 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
- Day 6 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add 2 ppm ammonia. Four drops of our ammonium chloride per gallon. [NOTE: since you have added the One & Only your ammonia kit will not read 2 ppm and DO NOT continue adding ammonia trying to get to 2 ppm – just add 2 ppm ammonia (4 drops per gallon of our ammonium chloride) and carry-on.
- Days 7 & 8 – Measure ammonia and nitrite. On the first measurement day (Day 2, 4, 5, 7 or 8) that BOTH ammonia and nitrite are both below 0.5 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) your tank is close to being cycled.
- Now start to measure ammonia and nitrite every day.
- When BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N), add another 2 ppm ammonia.
- Continue to measure every day. When you can add 2 ppm ammonia and BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) the next day your tank is cycled – congrats! You’re done!
- Do a partial water change and add some fish.
Thanks, so it sounds like I should add 2 ppm ammonia at this point? It's measuring closer to 0.5 ppm this morning (still no nitrites).
For reference, I had been following this guide: https://fishlab.com/how-to-cycle-aquarium/
To be honest, the method written for us is pretty easy to follow. Since you've only made one addition of ammonia you can switch to ours, so that those of us familiar with our method will be able to help better. A lot of fishless cycling methods tell you to add too much ammonia and this makes so much nitrite that the cycle stalls. Our method was written to that if is followed to the letter nitrite can never get high enough to stall the cycle.
www.fishforums.net
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!
Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...
Yes after that length of time you can bring back your ammonia to target level.
Things should start to precipitate soon. If no nitrite show off, test for nitrate if you have not, The latest product I tried where excellent to establish the nitrite crew and everything when to nitrate almost directly.
There are at least 4 known bacteria strain for each level of the nitrogen cycle in use. Some are also able to do more than one level.
With water conditions. Depending on how strong are the strains contained, how adequately they are promoted. And if they are the ones that will takeover in reality... Makes a lot of difference in the cycling process of a tank.
But without live plants, I always find that higher level of ammonia is preferable, even risking an of chart nitrite spike is not that harmful. There is no fish. And you can do a water change anytime if things goes too far.
Coping with results until smooth transition of ammonia occurs without excessive accumulation is the recipe.
Things should start to precipitate soon. If no nitrite show off, test for nitrate if you have not, The latest product I tried where excellent to establish the nitrite crew and everything when to nitrate almost directly.
There are at least 4 known bacteria strain for each level of the nitrogen cycle in use. Some are also able to do more than one level.
With water conditions. Depending on how strong are the strains contained, how adequately they are promoted. And if they are the ones that will takeover in reality... Makes a lot of difference in the cycling process of a tank.
But without live plants, I always find that higher level of ammonia is preferable, even risking an of chart nitrite spike is not that harmful. There is no fish. And you can do a water change anytime if things goes too far.
Coping with results until smooth transition of ammonia occurs without excessive accumulation is the recipe.
Thanks! I added some ammonia and now it's around 3 ppm. I'll follow that guide.
I think I may add some more Stability to it too.
I think I may add some more Stability to it too.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Maniac
Do not add the stability. When your cycle is finally done, the bacteria you need and will have did not come out of the stability bottle. But it will throw off the results in terms of the cycling article here. It was written for those not adding anything besides ammonia. The numbers in the method you will not see and you will not be able to follow the method here.
edited to fix a typo
edited to fix a typo
Last edited:
Chickadee
New Member
My first time doing a fishless cycle. I'm using Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II. On day 3, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all show a reading of 0.25. Am I close? In the days when I did a fish-in cycle, it would take several days to get to this point. Does it really happen this quick with this product, or am I doing something wrong?
You need to add ammonia to find out if the product has cycled the tank. Your readings could be that it is cycled, or it could be that all the available ammonia and nitrite have been 'eaten' but you have no idea if there are enough bacteria to support a tankful of fish. Adding ammonia will show how close you are to a completed cycled.
Add enough ammonia (or ammonium chloride) to get a reading of 3 ppm about half an hour after adding it (to allow it to mix in thoroughly). Then test after 24 hours. If ammonia and nitrite are both zero, the cycle is complete. But if you still have ammonia or any nitrite reading, you are not yet cycled. In this case, I would follow the fishless cycling method on here and hopefully the bacteria you've added will speed up the cycle.
www.fishforums.net
Add enough ammonia (or ammonium chloride) to get a reading of 3 ppm about half an hour after adding it (to allow it to mix in thoroughly). Then test after 24 hours. If ammonia and nitrite are both zero, the cycle is complete. But if you still have ammonia or any nitrite reading, you are not yet cycled. In this case, I would follow the fishless cycling method on here and hopefully the bacteria you've added will speed up the cycle.
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!
Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...
Chickadee
New Member
You need to add ammonia to find out if the product has cycled the tank. Your readings could be that it is cycled, or it could be that all the available ammonia and nitrite have been 'eaten' but you have no idea if there are enough bacteria to support a tankful of fish. Adding ammonia will show how close you are to a completed cycled.
Add enough ammonia (or ammonium chloride) to get a reading of 3 ppm about half an hour after adding it (to allow it to mix in thoroughly). Then test after 24 hours. If ammonia and nitrite are both zero, the cycle is complete. But if you still have ammonia or any nitrite reading, you are not yet cycled. In this case, I would follow the fishless cycling method on here and hopefully the bacteria you've added will speed up the cycle.
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!
Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...
I'm confused. I thought the Micro-Lift achieved the same thing. So I still need to add ammonia? The instructions didn't mention this. Or are you saying the ammonia is just a test to see if it worked? Sorry to sound dense.
Since I don't have any ammonia on hand, could I just add more of the Micro-Lift instead?
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