New To This...

[fatheadminnow]

Ammonia is produced from fish though fish waste, left over food in the tank, other debris that is rotting in a tank and fish produce ammonia through respiration (breathing).

Any reading of ammonia in a tank over .25 ppm (parts per million) is toxic to fish add will cause permanent gill damage and can kill them.

A way to remove ammonia is though water changes, but for that to be successful you will be doing constant water changes.

So, this is what happens:

Beneficial bacteria, called Autotrophic bacteria (Abacs) began to colonize in our filters. These Abacs feed off of ammonia.

When there is ammonia present in a tank, these Abacs will began to process ammonia, when ammonia is processed it turns in nitrite.

Nitrite is also toxic to fish if over .25 ppm, and will give fish permanent nerve damage if it is over .25 ppm, and will kill them.

So, another type of Bacteria began to colonize in your filter, this type of bacteria is referred to as (Nbacs).

The Nbacs process Nitrite, and turn nitrite into nitrate.

There is no type of bacteria to remove nitrate, the only way to remove nitrate is through a water change.

So, this is what we have so far. Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate. This process is called the nitrogen cycle.

Now, it takes time to colonize enough bacteria in your filter to process the current level of ammonia in your tank.

On average, it takes 4-6 weeks to colonize enough bacteria in a filter to perform this method.

This, I hope will give you a little better idea of what is going on.

Read that last link I gave you about fish-in cycling to get a better understanding on what you have to do.

Right now, cycling is your MAIN priority, and your fish stocking is going to have to wait until you get this cycling thing figured out!

Here is a post I made about fish-in cycling a while back:

Ammonia is produced by your fishes waste, and by other things such as left over food in the tank and dead fish in the tank. Whatever the case may be, there is always going to be ammonia present in your tank when you have fish. However, with an established tank, the ammonia and NitrIte are going to be so low that our test kits will read zero.

When ammonia is present in our tanks, beneficial bacteria (Autotrophic bacteria) colonize in our filters to process the ammonia.

1. First, the beneficial bacteria will process ammonia, when ammonia is process by these bacteria is turns into NitrIte.

2. There is a second type of Autotrophic bacteria in our filters that will process nitrIte into NitrAte.

3. There is no bacteria in our filter that can process NitrAte, so the only way to take NitrAte out is by water changes, usually only a 10%-15% water change is needed once a week to get NitrAte down.

Another thing that you need to know is: Ammonia and NitrIte are toxic to fish if they are above .25 ppm when you take your water readings. The fish may not show signs right away. But if they are exposed to a high level of Ammonia and NitrIte for too long, this could shorten their lives, and give them gill and nerve damage.

NitrAte is also toxic to fish, but in a greater quantity. Fish will be okay in NitrAte readings up to 40-50 ppm.

In you case, a fish-in cycle, your MAIN PRIORITY is to keep the Ammonia and NitrIte as close to zero as possible, this is done by water changes. Like stated above, do a water change, than check like 25 minutes later to see where you are at, and based on that reading you will know to do another water change or not.

-Simple math is all that is needed: If you take an Ammonia reading, and it says that you have 5 ppm in your tank, you know that you need to perform a water change to get this down below .25 ppm. So, lets say that you do a 50% water change. A 50% water change is going to take 5 ppm down to 2.5 ppm. 50% is half, so half of 5 ppm is 2.5 ppm. This "math" method will work for Ammonia, NitrIte and NitrAte.

Over the course of weeks, you will notice that your Ammonia and NitrIte readings are not go to be as high as often, and this is due to the fact that the beneficial bacteria are starting to colonize to process them.

So what can I expect first?

-First you are going to see a rise in Ammonia, since there are no bacteria to process this yet. But once bacteria start to colonize in your filter that process ammonia, you will notice that your ammonia is not going to be that high all the time, and then your NitrIte is going to start to go up.

Then, you will notice that your Ammonia is at zero almost all the time now, and your nitrIte is high.

You will then start to see your NitrIte go down and then you will see your NitrAtes go up.

After "X" amount of weeks, your Ammonia and NitrItes are going to be at zero, and your NitrAte is going to go up. This is due to the Beneficial bacteria in your filter that you have colonized over this whole process.

Things to remember:

You should use a gravel vac at least once a week, if not more, to suck up any poo. Poo that is left over in the tank is going to produce more ammonia, and that is the last thing you want right now.

You want Ammonia and NitrIte down below .25 ppm, and NitrAte not to go over 40-50 ppm
.
The only way to get Ammonia and NitrIte down is to do water changes, until there is enough bacteria in your filter to take care of this for you.

There is no bacteria that will process NitrAte, so you must perform weekly 10%-15% water changes to get NitrAte down, after the cycle is complete.

I hope this helps a little?

But I hope after reading this that you will have a basic understanding on how this process works, and what to do.


Regards
-FHM

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

What exactly is a filter even used for if water changes are to be done so often?

 

[fatheadminnow]

What exactly is a filter even used for if water changes are to be done so often?

The filter is the home for the Autotrophic bacteria.

There are three parts to a filter.

1. Mechanical, filters out debris
2. Chemical, i.e carbon insert. Don't bother in using this right now if you already have. The carbon insert removes chemicals in the water, like medicine added to the tank, or soap that has accidentally gotten into the tank. In reality, the carbon insert is only affective for about 3 days, after that the activated carbon is all used up and needs to be replaced. I don't run carbon in my filter, just because it is not necessary. I do have a carbon insert on hand, just in case something accidentally gets into the tank I can just throw it in my filter.
3. biological filtration, the most important part of the filter.

It takes time for the bacteria to colonize within the filter, but after they colonize enough, (population is enough) they will process the ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate.

It just takes time, and that is the bottom line. You have to be patient with this process, as it is the key for good fish keeping!

The reason why you are doing water changes so often right now is because you do not have enough bacteria in your current filter to process the ammonia in your tank. So, a water change is the only way to get the ammonia out/down to a safe level until the autotrophic bacteria colonize enough to constantly process the ammonia level in your tank.

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

I've seen many customized filters on Youtube. What's the purpose of that? Also, I have this as well. It says it "speeds the development of the biological filter to eliminate ammonia and nitrate"

How would that work for this?

 

[fatheadminnow]

The customized filters are most likely called "trickle" or wet/dry filter which are more like a sump type filter. They are used for larger aquariums.

That product you have there is probably not going to do anything.

The only product that I have seen work is called bio-spira, and that was taken out of production a couple years ago unfortunately!

You are at the point where you just want fish, and you are getting stuff to speed up the cycling process. In reality, the only thing that can speed up the cycling process is time, evidently. Patience is the name of the game, and performing a cycle the right way and using the right resources, i.e. liquid test kit, is the best way to properly cycle a tank.

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

The cycling process is what has me so confused, and I'm trying to understand it but I'm evidently not getting anywhere with that... So basically... I want no ammonia, no nitrite, and no nitrate in my fish tank at all. Correct? The ONLY way to get rid of all three of these is to just change my water often/frequently? Is there any possible way that I wouldn't have to bother with the water changes and rid of this being a problem? I hate the thought of having to change 2 gallons of water each day with PH neutralizer every day.

What is a filter media? That may help a little bit, doubt it, but I guess it's better to learn as much as I can.

Also, what about this video: http/www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkgkNbWesGg

 

[Wills]

quick answer - you need to do daily water changes down to keep the toxic ammonia and nitrite down to 0, but after a few weeks bacteria will develop in your filter and they will be able to eat the ammonia and nitrite and then you need to do a weekly 30%ish water change to get rid of excess nitrate.

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

So no matter what, it's not looking so good? If it's a newly established aquarium, how come I have to do this so frequently? I've had this tank running for about... 2 weeks or so now.

 

[fatheadminnow]

The cycling process is what has me so confused, and I'm trying to understand it but I'm evidently not getting anywhere with that... So basically... I want no ammonia, no nitrite, and no nitrate in my fish tank at all. Correct? The ONLY way to get rid of all three of these is to just change my water often/frequently? Is there any possible way that I wouldn't have to bother with the water changes and rid of this being a problem? I hate the thought of having to change 2 gallons of water each day with PH neutralizer every day.

What is a filter media? That may help a little bit, doubt it, but I guess it's better to learn as much as I can.

Yes, Ammonia and Nitrite should always be at 0 ppm. Nitrate is safe for fish up to 40-50 ppm.

What kind of filter do you have?

Filter media is just that, it is the media/stuff in your filter. The sponge/foam insert are examples of filter media. If you get some filter media from a tank that has been cycled, then that would speed up the cycling process.

Cycling:

Fish produce ammonia. There are bacteria that grow in our filters that eat ammonia. When these bacteria eat ammonia, the bi-product is nitrite. Then another type of bacteria eat nitrite. When the bacteria eat nitrite, the bi-product is nitrate. There is no bacteria that can process nitrate.

What is in my filter right now?

There are currently no beneficial bacteria in your filter to eat the ammonia or nitrite. This is why your ammonia level is going to rise really quickly because your fish are constantly producing ammonia.

This is also why you NEED to do daily water changes to keep the ammonia, and when it becomes present, nitrite, down as close to zero as possible.

Over time, the beneficial bacteria will begin to colonize (grow) in your filter. The more bacteria you have in your filter, the faster ammonia will be processed into nitrite.

When Nitrite starts to become present in the tank, another type of bacteria, which also grows in your filter, will start to process nitrite into nitrate.

When there is enough bacteria in you filter, you will know this when your ammonia and nitrite levels constantly remain at zero, and nitrate becomes more evident.

Ammonia -> Nitrite -> nitrate

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

Oh, wow. Thanks. That helped a lot. I appreciate that. I have a much better understanding of cycling now, and what ammonia and nitrite is. Though, nitrate is...?

 

[fatheadminnow]

Oh, wow. Thanks. That helped a lot. I appreciate that. I have a much better understanding of cycling now, and what ammonia and nitrite is. Though, nitrate is...?

After your tank is fully cycled, (Ammonia and Nitrite constantly remaining at 0 ppm), you nitrate level will slowly rise since there is no type of bacteria that process nitrate.

The ONLY way to remove nitrate from the water is though water changes.

Right now, you will not have much problems with nitrate, as you are dealing with the first step of the process, which is growing bacteria to process ammonia into nitrite.

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

So... Ammonia turns into Nitrite, and then Nitrite turns into Nitrate? Ammonia and Nitrite are both extremely toxic to fish? But Nitrate isn't as toxic to fish but in large doses can be harmful?

Nitrate can ONLY be removed by cycling water. However, Ammonia and Nitrite can be removed by cycling water, filter bacteria, and plants?

 

[fatheadminnow]

So... Ammonia turns into Nitrite, and then Nitrite turns into Nitrate? Ammonia and Nitrite are both extremely toxic to fish? But Nitrate isn't as toxic to fish but in large doses can be harmful?

Nitrate can ONLY be removed by cycling water. However, Ammonia and Nitrite can be removed by cycling water, filter bacteria, and plants?

Yup, you almost got it.

Ammonia and Nitrite can also be removed by water changes, but when a tank is completely cycled, ammonia turns into nitrite, then nitrite turns into nitrate. Then the only way to get nitrate out is though a water change.

-FHM

 

[Miamisportsfan45]

The nitrate can be prevented though if ammonia and nitrite is taken care of before hand. Right?

 

[mbsqw1d]

The nitrate can be prevented though if ammonia and nitrite is taken care of before hand. Right?

If you are willing to catch every bit of fish poo, uneaten food, and somehow fish wee and the ammonia they breathe out..

Otherwise your filter will take care of the ammonia and nitrite by turning it into nitrate.

The only thing that will eat nitrate are plants. So unless your tank is well planted, you will have to remove the nitrate by changing the water.

If you can get hold of some large water containers, you could fill them up with fresh water and add the dechlorinator (the chlorine that the water company puts into your tap water is also toxic to your fish ) So when you clean your tank each week, you have the water already waiting to be poured in

BTW How are your Bettas (fighters) doing?