Nitrite & Ph Problems

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Well ranjohns, I think we all hate to get into direct recommendations like this lest you end up disappointed, especially with more significant stuff like this. We all do our research and make our decisions and its often a little different for each of us, so please take my comments as just one more little bit of info.

The spraybar was part of the filter, in the box. Its been fine for me although I believe there are fancier versions you can get if you need more flexibility. In my tank I have the intake tube in the back right corner, where it goes down and touches the gravel. I have the spraybar across the top back feeding from the left. That was because the spraybar was a tiny bit too long to fit across the left side (it might fit in your 29g) and I was too lazy to cut it, which you could easily do. My arrangement means the feeder hose to the spraybar is visible at the back side of the tank, but it doesn't particularly bother me. It also means the water flow comes forward across the water surface, hits the front glass and goes downward and is concentrated somewhat into a stream by the bowfront of the tank. This, depending on whether you like it or not, means fish can ride it like a water fall and their tails tip downwards when they swim through it. Personally I find this a bit annoying and I may change it but my son thinks its fun. I use a Hydor exernal heater on the input hose of the eheim, so there's no equipment visible in the tank except that intake tube on the right rear.

If I had it to do over again I'd probably go for the eheim ProII 2026 instead of the 2222, now that I've had more time to hear what the planted guys have to say and realize they run their tanks often up around 10x turnover, whereas my 2222 gives me 5x turnover. I'm still a bit of two minds about this (the anti-algae positive vs. the blow-the-fish-around negative) but I'm told the water flows can be tamed by adjusting the outputs more (such as pointing the flow more at the near glass, and also by having more plants, which is good.) Now the 2026 is still more expensive but it might help solve the problem of availability. The Pro line is almost non-existant in the USA (this is a German product) but the ProII line is much more easily available. I had to do an all-out search to find mine at the time because I was convinced that's what I wanted. By the way, I'd use the eheim site to get measurement specs and see if you have room, these are big devices. The only options I got were a little rubber bulb to prime the pump (very helpful on the 2222 but unneeded on the 2026 as it has one built-in) and a pack of extra media pads. Mine came with ceramic rings and ceramic gravel and sponges. The user manuals are online at the eheim site and the usa parts and service site exists and works.

~~waterdrop~~
 
waterdrop, thanks for your comments. I called eheim today and spoke with a tech rep about 3 filters: the ecco 2232 ( rated for 35g tank), the ecco 2234 (for 60 g tank) and the pro 2222 (60 g tank). The ecco line is self primed; the 2232 has a 3x flow rate; the 2234 and 2222, 4x. If I buy an eheim canister, the rep suggested running my HOB side-by-side with the eheim model for 2 weeks.

First, I like the fact that 1.) the eheim's are silent and 2.) have a small footprint in the tank. 2ndly, I haven't read one negative comment about eheims on the fish forums I read - all are positive except, perhaps, regarding cost.

I don't want to throw the baby out with the wash, but I'm a loss to explain why this cycle is taking so long. I'm ready to throw a bit of money at the problem. On the up side I get a quiet, more visually pleasing filter; on the other hand....

I'll do a bit more research then make a decision. Thanks for your input. I won't hold you to it unless....just kidding.

I'll look for your next post.

Thanks,

Ranjohns
 
OK, more lore... Almost universally nobody gets the ecco product line, it is not recommended by any of us. The only lines recommended are the classic, pro, proII, pro3. The eccos were not made in Germany and the reliability suffered, at least that is the criticism I believe I remember. The classics are good, solid and perfectly functional and have a good following on this forum but my personal opinion is that the extra features are worth it if you can go for the pro lines. Also, not that I think you were considering it but, I don't recommend the thermo versions (the ones with heaters built in) because of problems with the sensors messing up if there is any salt in the water, which of course can sometimes happen with medications. Instead, the hydor inline heaters will do this job (know you already have a heater but just adding this for completeness.) Your ref to tank footprint worried me a tad (these are -external- cannisters with only tubes going into the tank) but I'm sure it was just your terminology for the very fact that its just tubes!

I feel really bad for you re the cycle, in my experience its unlikely that the physical filter is very often likely to be the cause of a problem, so its a bit of a stretch that buying a whole new filter will necessarily solve your problem and I'd feel awful if I contributed to that expectation and it didn't work out. On the other hand, there is at least a reasonable chance that there really -is- something about that penguin that's messing things up, so we can cross our fingers. Now the other potential negative I see is that a big new cannister is likely to take some time to get cycled, even if the previous stuff provides some seeding. I have a superstition that filters with larger media volumes somehow have the characteristic of seeming to stall longer getting a fishless cycle to finish but then after they are done they are almost impossible to "uncycle" (ie. experience a mini-cycle) because they somehow provide better biofilm space for whatever colony size matches up with the fish load. So again, that's another warning - I just want you to be real solid on your decision.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks for your thorough reply and concerns I'll let you know what I decide to do. It's late and I'm a bit too tired to write more. Ranjohns
 
I bought an Eheim 2026 this afternoon. I may have a bit of time tomorrow a.m. to set it up. If not, Monday may be the next opportunity. Thanks for your input. I have a very fine filter and I look forward to using it and not hearing it.

No numbers to post this evening.

Ranjohns
 
wow, I certainly hope your experience with it is as good as mine has been with the 2222! Did it come with media I hope?

Yes, it has a complete media set. One question about the media - how often might I expect to change the white filter? I understand the blue filter can be washed and reused several times.

Day 96: Ammmonia dosed to 4ppm

after 15 hours nitrites at .5
after 20 hours nitrites at .25

Ranjohns
 
Actually I'm still using my white pad a year later, squeezing it out just like the blue pad. A lot of people might have replaced it but I'm not that much of a nut for water "polishing." It seems to hold up pretty well. I suspect you could also use it, as it ages, to trap regular old polyfloss and hold it in there nicely. These filters can go many weeks not really needing a clean, if not longer, even though monthly is a good habit generally I think.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Day 96: Ammmonia dosed to 4ppm

after 15 hours nitrites at .5
after 20 hours nitrites at .25

Day 97

Ammonia dosed to 4ppm
after 10.5 hours nitrites at 1.0

Tomorrow I plan to do a 50% water change in an attempt to lower the nitrites and to kick start a faster glide to 0 nitrites at 12 hours.

I added Eheim 2026 to the tank tonight. We'll run it side-by-side with the Marineland 350B for 2 or 3 weeks in an attempt to speed up the transfer and development of beneficial bacteria in the the Eheim. We'll see.

Ranjohns
.
 
Actually I'm still using my white pad a year later, squeezing it out just like the blue pad. A lot of people might have replaced it but I'm not that much of a nut for water "polishing." It seems to hold up pretty well. I suspect you could also use it, as it ages, to trap regular old polyfloss and hold it in there nicely. These filters can go many weeks not really needing a clean, if not longer, even though monthly is a good habit generally I think.

~~waterdrop~~

Waterdrop, while we're on the subject of filter media, please recount how frequently you've replaced the mechanical and biologic media in the canisters. What are the signs that indicate a need to replace the media? The manual suggests replacing mech and bio media approx 1/3 at a time.

One observation about water clarity. My water hasn't been v. clear - a bit on the green side -in several weeks, especially when viewed from the side. I've scrubbed the interior glass. Perhaps it will clear after a 50% wc tomorrow.

Ranjohns
 
Day 98 fishless cycle

Did an approx 65% water change this morning - cleaned cleaned glass in and out. Water clearing, not as green. Snails are now under control these last 2 weeks. Dosed ammonia at 4pm, so no numbers to post.

Ranjohns
 
Day 99 Fishless cycle

Dosed ammonia to 4ppm. 15.5 hours later:
nitrites are 1.0ppm. No growth in the bac. colony is giving way to some growth.
pH is 7.2+;
nitrAte is 40ppm;
ammonia is 0.

Now that I'm removing all crushed snail shells, should I resume dosing ammonia to 5ppm?

Ranjohns
 
So are we running both filters now?

Media: Oh I've never replaced a single bit of my media, its all the same stuff as originally came with the fitler. A lot of experienced aquarists pride themselves in having the same media for the life of hobby, lol. That's what ceramics are all about, they are built to last virtually forever. Sponges, a little less. They will eventually get tears in their structure and should be replaced when that threatens to create a "leak path" for the water to get through without being forced to be filtered. Usually polyfloss, or the white pads like eheim has will be the things that might need frequent replacing. I may try to do something like that, just have been too lazy up to this point.

We can talk about this more, in a bit of a rush at the mo.

~~waterdrop~~
 

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