Is This The Best I can Do

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I read back a little and I now see your situation. From past experience as a professional cheap-ass when it comes to fish tanks you can't beat your auction site for a tank. My rule of thumb is if it's cheaper than the NZ dollar per litre rate its a good but, but it could be very different where you're from. IME a 10-15g is good especially when looking on those sites as more experienced people generally go for bigger tanks whilst less experienced go for smaller, full kits, nicer looking tanks. This means you can usually get a really good deal for an older, more basic setup, without any decor or a filter, which really only needs a good clean.

Substrate is easy, any play sand (usually called sterilised play sand) with a base layer of propagation sand will work. Some people use garden fertilisers or even better pond specific fert mixes instead of expensive, aquarium specific products. Play sand usually is a nice gold. Pool filter sand is even better as it has a slightly larger grain size but at least here costs a fortune.

Lighting if not included in the second-hand tank purchase is a similar story. Waterproof (usually silicone covered), cool white LED strips do the job wonderfully although may not be such a focused beam, possibly small reflectors will help with that. It's just a matter of wiring up a switch and transformer yourself but it isn't too big of a job.

Filtration doesn't need to be over the top, new HOB's are effective and can be very cheap depending on the filtration goals. Good deals can be achieved with canister filters, especially eheim classic. If a HOB is probably the cheapest if running a single tank but if multiple tanks are in question air-driven sponge filters are the way to go with DIY options maximising the effectiveness of such units. Heaters are cheap in general. JEBO heaters do the job and are probably the cheapest.

Decor consisting of wood and rocks can be collected from nearby rivers. If your tap water is soft it is likely that you don't live in a karstic area so you don't need to worry too much about rising TDS from calcium carbonate reaction with light acids and even then would be a limited reaction. Driftwood from river banks is great and you can just collect it with the rocks. As long as there isn't a lead mine upstream it is very unlikely that any minerals that will have a negative effect on your fish will be present in the rocks. A bit controversial but I don't think that driftwood needs to be boiled as the chance of disease is very low and any microfauna (if there is any) are not going to have a major effect on your tank and will usually be gobbled up by your fish. If you can't afford plants you can go as far as grabbing some from your local stream. Usually, elodea or duckweed are easy finds maybe a little bit illegal but that doesn't matter.

The fish and plants will be the most expensive this way. Tell me if I missed anything and I hope this essay provides some helpful advice.
 
I personally like internal filters better. They are around the same cost as HOB filters, and sometimes cheaper.

I agree with the play sand - no need to get some of that other expensive stuff. Good job on that list @Treestone. :good:
 
Yep but i would also like quality like for the light it has a timer on so that’s why I’m going for it.
Good call. I wish I would have puckered up and got me a nice LED bar light with a timer and everything. (Skimped out and got myself 2 light for $10. They were both LED clip-on desk lamps. Don't get me wrong, they work amazingly, but, they aren't as good as bar lights)
 
Good call. I wish I would have puckered up and got me a nice LED bar light with a timer and everything. (Skimped out and got myself 2 light for $10. They were both LED clip-on desk lamps. Don't get me wrong, they work amazingly, but, they aren't as good as bar lights)
The filter is like a cheaper aqua clear and you can adjust the flow and has a sponge on the intake
 

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