What causes these white patches on my betta???

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CreecherFeature

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I've had my betta for months now and have changed nothing in my routine, but lately he has developed white spots on his left face and top of his back (and a few other places that didn't show up well in photos, all small). I've seen posts of somewhat similar conditions being aggressively deadly, but he's had this for over a week now and is acting/eating fine. I have tried multiple treatments to pH, Ammonia, and bacterial infections but the white remains. It does not appear to be fungus or anything external far as I can tell (NOTE that I do not have too eyesight so correct me if I am wrong). If you've got any idea on what it is and how to treat it I am open to anything even if it takes money. Thanks!
 

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Will you please try to get more pictures? Do these spots seem to have bare skin? Or are the scales a different color?
 
The curve of the tank front makes clear pictures hard but here you can see that it's actually his scales turning white on his back. They don't appear to be abbraisions or wounds far as I can tell
Will you please try to get more pictures? Do these spots seem to have bare skin? Or are the scales a different color?
 

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It looks like his was injured, and it’s growing back. Anything sharp in the tank?
 
It looks like his was injured, and it’s growing back. Anything sharp in the tank?
Nothing's paricucally sharp far as I know. All his plants are silk and I checked his barrel for anything particularly sharp. It still has like, edges though. He also has a feeding ring that he's up against a lot to eat, the base of his long flowy fins are also turning white, I don't know what'd be doing it to him there
 

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Nothing's paricucally sharp far as I know. All his plants are silk and I checked his barrel for anything particularly sharp. It still has like, edges though. He also has a feeding ring that he's up against a lot to eat, the base of his long flowy fins are also turning white, I don't know what'd be doing it to him there
Here are the best pictures I have gotten so far, it really shows the expansion of the white areas. They just appeared within the past week and there was no prior indication of anything being wrong. Behavior is still normal and eating habits unchanged.
 

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Here's even more images from like 5 minutes ago, the white is advancing ever quicker, still not seeking to impact anything other than color that I can identify
 

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possibly an external protozoan infection on the back, do daily water changes and salt for 2 weeks and see if it helps.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Add some salt, (see directions below).

-------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres (5 gallons).

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 

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