Update on the Otos

[Colin_T]

Don't overdose with plant fertilisers because you can poison the fish.

If you are using an iron based plant fertiliser, monitor the iron levels and keep it at 1mg/l (1ppm).

If you're not sure about how much fertiliser is left in the tank water, do a big water change before redosing. This will dilute any remaining fertiliser and reduce the chance of overdosing and poisoning the inhabitants.

 

[seangee]

Don't overdose with plant fertilisers because you can poison the fish.

If you are using an iron based plant fertiliser, monitor the iron levels and keep it at 1mg/l (1ppm).

If you're not sure about how much fertiliser is left in the tank water, do a big water change before redosing. This will dilute any remaining fertiliser and reduce the chance of overdosing and poisoning the inhabitants.

Not too much chance . They get half the recommended dose of Flourish complete at every water change. Upping it means another half dose midweek. I did refresh the root tabs. They have been in a couple of months and wanted to ensure they don't run out.

 

[Phishphace]

10 days or so later, how are your little guys doing?!

 

[seangee]

10 days or so later, how are your little guys doing?!

Sorry missed that post. Almost a month in and all is good.
I have ended up increasing the light period in the smaller tanks by 4 hours per day - now at 11. In the big tank its up 3 hours - now 10.5. I did this because I was going on holiday and wanted to make sure they got enough food. When I got back there was almost no visible algae although I do have to wipe the front glass every week now. I do supplement the nano with algae wafers. The other tanks get algae wafers too - but they are not too bothered because there is enough food on the surfaces and plants.

The strange thing is I was worried about them with the dwarf chain loach. Partly because of how rough those guys play and because they are a similar (sort of) shape. They regularly mix it up with them and happily ignore each other. But in the nano they have only just accepted that the CPD are no threat. Initially they appeared to be quite intimidated by these. But now they are regularly seen sharing their algae wafers

 

[AquaBarb]

Sorry missed that post. Almost a month in and all is good.
I have ended up increasing the light period in the smaller tanks by 4 hours per day - now at 11. In the big tank its up 3 hours - now 10.5. I did this because I was going on holiday and wanted to make sure they got enough food. When I got back there was almost no visible algae although I do have to wipe the front glass every week now. I do supplement the nano with algae wafers. The other tanks get algae wafers too - but they are not too bothered because there is enough food on the surfaces and plants.

The strange thing is I was worried about them with the dwarf chain loach. Partly because of how rough those guys play and because they are a similar (sort of) shape. They regularly mix it up with them and happily ignore each other. But in the nano they have only just accepted that the CPD are no threat. Initially they appeared to be quite intimidated by these. But now they are regularly seen sharing their algae wafers

Good to hear im thinking about upping my light period even more now in my big tank. On 9.5 hrs per day at the moment but i upped my group of Oto's friday so i want to make sure theres more algae to go around. Thinking of adding some to my 100 litre now because i think they are pretty dam cool

 

[seangee]

Yes they are cool. Spent the last hour or so watching them. Only side effect is I have a lot more big MTS in the nano since adding them. Combination of the extra algae wafer every evening and the extra poop. No difference in the community because with 30+ cories left over food simply does not happen and in the loach tank snails make good snacks.

 

[Byron]

Good to hear im thinking about upping my light period even more now in my big tank. On 9.5 hrs per day at the moment but i upped my group of Oto's friday so i want to make sure theres more algae to go around. Thinking of adding some to my 100 litre now because i think they are pretty dam cool

Be careful, you may regret this. The algae that Otocinclus (and Farlowella, Bristlenose) eat is the common green algae and diatoms. These fish will not eat "problem" algae like hair, black beard/brush, etc. If you increase the light duration beyond the available nutrients, you will upset the balance and cause problem algae.

 

[Retired Viking]

Sorry missed that post. Almost a month in and all is good.
I have ended up increasing the light period in the smaller tanks by 4 hours per day - now at 11. In the big tank its up 3 hours - now 10.5. I did this because I was going on holiday and wanted to make sure they got enough food. When I got back there was almost no visible algae although I do have to wipe the front glass every week now. I do supplement the nano with algae wafers. The other tanks get algae wafers too - but they are not too bothered because there is enough food on the surfaces and plants.

The strange thing is I was worried about them with the dwarf chain loach. Partly because of how rough those guys play and because they are a similar (sort of) shape. They regularly mix it up with them and happily ignore each other. But in the nano they have only just accepted that the CPD are no threat. Initially they appeared to be quite intimidated by these. But now they are regularly seen sharing their algae wafers

I had given up on algae wafers after the Mystery snails and cory ignored them but I tossed one in the tank the other day and a few hours later I noticed 6 out of the 7 nerites snails were over on that end of the tank eating them. That's a long way for some of them to travel in a 55 gallon tank so they must really like them

 

[AquaBarb]

Be careful, you may regret this. The algae that Otocinclus (and Farlowella, Bristlenose) eat is the common green algae and diatoms. These fish will not eat "problem" algae like hair, black beard/brush, etc. If you increase the light duration beyond the available nutrients, you will upset the balance and cause problem algae.

Upsetting the balance is at the back of my mind tbh. I was thinking of just adding half an hour upto 10 hrs per day and see how it goes. Ive got no visible sign of algae in this tank atm. My first group of Otos have been in 6 weeks now and seem to be finding enough to feed on as they are clearly growing.

 

[Byron]

Upsetting the balance is at the back of my mind tbh. I was thinking of just adding half an hour upto 10 hrs per day and see how it goes. Ive got no visible sign of algae in this tank atm. My first group of Otos have been in 6 weeks now and seem to be finding enough to feed on as they are clearly growing.

This is not good for fish or plants, regardless of algae. An intended permanent change to the duration of the "day" achieved by the adjustment of the tank light photoperiod needs to be well thought out and gradual, and permanent. A temporary change is not advisable.

Light affects fish as much or perhaps even more than plants when it comes to the duration. The fish's circadian rhythm is altered, and this has impacts physiologically and to the fish's metabolism. When I have had to reduce light due to algae problems I do it in stages over several days, an hour maximum at a time. I don't make changes for daylight saving time any longer; the tank lights are on seven hours each 24-hour period and this is constant all year, which is what occurs in the tropics.

 

[AquaBarb]

This is not good for fish or plants, regardless of algae. An intended permanent change to the duration of the "day" achieved by the adjustment of the tank light photoperiod needs to be well thought out and gradual, and permanent. A temporary change is not advisable.

Light affects fish as much or perhaps even more than plants when it comes to the duration. The fish's circadian rhythm is altered, and this has impacts physiologically and to the fish's metabolism. When I have had to reduce light due to algae problems I do it in stages over several days, an hour maximum at a time. I don't make changes for daylight saving time any longer; the tank lights are on seven hours each 24-hour period and this is constant all year, which is what occurs in the tropics.

Oh right ok, ill leave as is then. Thanks for that