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Uberhoust
Fish Herder
I would put the nitrate at the second square, if I remember correctly that is 5ppm. That could indicate the cycle is at least partially established, but it also could mean that the source, tap, water has some nitrate in it already. More important would be the ammonia and nitrite concentrations, both should be measurably zero. If both ammonia and nitrite measure zero, and there is a source of ammonia in the water, from fish or added directly, and you have nitrate production then you have at least a partial cycle established.
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
Tested my tap water twice and it was 5 ppm nitrate which explained why even two 75% water changes didn’t affect it. But the 5 is ok.
OP
OP
Guest14017
Guest
Thank you. The tank has no ammonia or nitrites that I can detect. The tap has no nitrates that I can detect. If the tank is at less than 10ppm nitrate after 6 days, then that means I will just keep up the regimen of 90% weekly for a while just to make sure I am not overloading the newly cycled tank. I will probably be able to do 50-70% in a few weeks.
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
the best of luck with it!
Myraan
Fishaholic
This is why I personally do not like the API nitrate test. To me it looks zero, that could just be my eyesight of course. I wouldn't trust a zero reading of nitrate unless there are are plants that are removing most of the ammonia in the first place, and as I understand, goldfish tend to destroy plants. I suppose it's theoretically possible the mature filter media is converting the nitrate into nitrogen gas, but I believe that needs low oxygen conditions which are unlikely in most filters and dangerous in shallow substrate anyway. As far as I know the "full" nitrogen cycle is mainly a youtube myth.
Did you shake the bottles really really hard? If so did you try a second test that involved shaking the bottles even harder and banging them on the table? I know that sounds crazy but when I was fishless cycling I got to the point 4ppm ammonia was zero in 24hrs as was nitrite. Yet nitrate was only 10 or so, as was the tap water, despite many many ammonia doses being added with no water changes. So one day retested the same water with harder API bottle shaking and nitrate suddenly was 80ppm. I then did 2 consecutive 90% water changes and added more ammonia. Next morning I tested the water to confirm I was cycled, did another 90% water change, got in the car and went to buy fish.
Did you shake the bottles really really hard? If so did you try a second test that involved shaking the bottles even harder and banging them on the table? I know that sounds crazy but when I was fishless cycling I got to the point 4ppm ammonia was zero in 24hrs as was nitrite. Yet nitrate was only 10 or so, as was the tap water, despite many many ammonia doses being added with no water changes. So one day retested the same water with harder API bottle shaking and nitrate suddenly was 80ppm. I then did 2 consecutive 90% water changes and added more ammonia. Next morning I tested the water to confirm I was cycled, did another 90% water change, got in the car and went to buy fish.
OP
OP
Guest14017
Guest
Hello. I DEFINITELY learned years ago that you have to shake the nitrate bottles very well before testing. So I definitely always do that. To explain... the TANK is newly set up. I have had the goldfish a few weeks now. However the filter and its media came from a guppy tank that was running for 6+ months. I moved the entire filter over when I gave away the guppies. And that filter media in the guppy tank came from a Blood Parrot tank that has been running for years. So the media is quite mature. I have been testing and I have seen no ammonia or nitrites so I have detected no cycle bump. There is only one small goldfish in the tank and some plants. He doesn't destroy all of them. I just hate the API nitrate thingy as it is hard to read. Fancy goldfish (I have an Oranda) are extremely sensitive and die easily so I am trying to watch things closely for a while.
PS - I definitely do not read ZERO. It is not yellow. Has a little orange.
PS - I definitely do not read ZERO. It is not yellow. Has a little orange.
Myraan
Fishaholic
If the fish is small still and you have plants that explains it. Salifert nitrate test has powder you scoop in instead of bottle 2 and the water turns pink instead of yellow, I find it easier to read. My suggestion would be go ahead and only do the smaller water changes already out of pure laziness. But you probably should do what you think because it sounds like you are much more experienced with fish than what I am 
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
Someone here recommended Salifert which I bought on Amazon but haven’t used yet. I did see a few YouTube vids re the API kit. This great big tattooed man shook the second nitrate bottle & pounded it against his palm for at least 30 seconds. Then he shook the test tube for a full minute. So I saw another vid by a nerdy little teen. He did the same thing! Test chem bottles essentially said to do as they did, but watching these guys drove home the point for me. Both had big beautiful community tanks in the background.
It is only the 2nd bottle of API 'trate solution that needs to be shaken like mad, but it doesn't hurt to shake the 1st bottle
Try using this for your color matching, instead of the color card: https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/downloads.html
Try using this for your color matching, instead of the color card: https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/downloads.html
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
Yes, the YouTube guys were pounding bottle #2.
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
Nice charts, more to my liking. thanks. took SS. Will print up later.
FishHobby99
Fish Gatherer
Yes! The great big guy was pounding it hard into his palm & mine started to hurt, so I banged it on the bathroom counter.
I just test in front of my PC, and hold the TT up to the monitor to compare...
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