Is ammonia killing my fish?

[CKP82]

Hi,
I bought a tank and cabinet on black friday. I had it set up and started cycling on the 8th December. A few weeks of cycling and the sand kept the water cloudy so I decided to start again but this time I used gravel.
I set it up on the 1st of January and left it to cycle. Last week I read about nitrico goop and how it cycles your tank quickly. The reviews are great and I admit I was running out of patience.
When I received the goop, the instruction was to add fish within 48 hours.
I added 5 neon tetras, 7 guppies and 3 corys the day after receiving and adding the goop to the filter. This was on Saturday and by Tuesday, 2 guppies had died. Today a Cory has died.
I've done a 30% water change and added a water conditioner.
I've done a water test and it's showing traces of ammonia and nitrites.
How can I make the water safe so I don't lose the other fish?
Many thanks.

 

[Ichthys]

Rule #1, never believe what a manufacturer tells you.

If your water is alkaline then the ammonia and nitrite are probably killing your fish. If it’s acidic it’ll be the nitrites.
You could add Seachem Prime to ‘neutralise’ them both until the filter is cycled, or do big water changes every day to remove them. The Prime method is much easier.
There could be other reasons for the deaths, but with ammonia and nitrite present it’s likely to be them.

 

[Byron]

Massive water changes, one each day, until both ammonia and nitrite are zero consecutive days.

You do not mention plants, but if you have live plants and particularly floating plants they will help. The consume a lot of ammonia/ammonium.

 

[connorlindeman]

Another thing. Did you add the water directly to the tank before adding the water conditioner or did you add the water into the tank and then the water conditioner? Also, what conditioner did you use?

 

[CKP82]

Thanks for your replies.
I added water straight to the tank during the water change. I then added Tetra aquasafe To the water. I used tap water to do the water change not thinking this also contains ammonia. If I do water changes each day, will the conditioner neutralise the chlorine and ammonia from the previous water change?
My pH level is 7.5 so it looks like I have alkaline water.
I don't have any live plants in my tank, I guess that is something I need to look into.

 

[Essjay]

How do you add new water during a water change, with a hose pipe or with a bucket?

If it's with a bucket, add dechlorinator to each bucketful before it goes into the tank, at the dose rate for the amount of water in the bucket.

If using a hose, add enough dechlorinator to treat the volume of the whole tank into the tank, then refill.




Ammonia is usually found in tap water when the water provider uses chloramine to disinfect it rather than chlorine. You can check this by testing your tap water for ammonia. And while you are doing that, test for nitrite and nitrate as well to give you a baseline for all three. For pH, test freshly run tap water and also a glass of tap water that's been allowed to stand overnight. They could well be different as gasses dissolved in the water gas out.

 

[Slaphppy7]

Be sure to get THIS test kit, if you don't have one already: https://apifishcare.com/product/freshwater-master-test-kit

 

[CKP82]

I add the water using a hosepipe. I used to think adding enough conditioner for the water your replacing was how you do it, but I was told to add the amount you need for the whole tank is better.
I have tested the tap water for ammonia and it is registering as having it in it.

I already have an ntlabs test kit I guess they're pretty much all the same.

I did a water change yesterday and have just finished doing one today. This time I have added seachem prime and seachem stability to hopefully control the ammonia.

 

[Byron]

I add the water using a hosepipe. I used to think adding enough conditioner for the water your replacing was how you do it, but I was told to add the amount you need for the whole tank is better.
I have tested the tap water for ammonia and it is registering as having it in it.

I already have an ntlabs test kit I guess they're pretty much all the same.

I did a water change yesterday and have just finished doing one today. This time I have added seachem prime and seachem stability to hopefully control the ammonia.

Neither product will control the ammonia. Stability does nothing beneficial, save your money. Prime somehow "detoxifies" ammonia but it is temporary, and depending upon the pH may or may not be harmful. So as long as ammonia and nitrite are showing in tests, do large daily water changes.

Live plants would help a lot, floating plants especially.

 

[CKP82]

Neither product will control the ammonia. Stability does nothing beneficial, save your money. Prime somehow "detoxifies" ammonia but it is temporary, and depending upon the pH may or may not be harmful. So as long as ammonia and nitrite are showing in tests, do large daily water changes.

Live plants would help a lot, floating plants especially.

I'm glad you've said that, it seems I would of needed a couple more bottles within the next week by doing these daily water changes.
I'm going to get some live plants. I just hope I can get rid of this ammonia without killing too many fish.

 

[Naughts]

Until you get your ammonia and nitrite down you can slow down their build up by feeding less. Twice a week is fine for a few weeks as fish, unlike us, do not need fuel for keeping warm.

I add the dechlorinator, then the water via a hose. I haven't had any issue by just adding the amount for the new water.

 

[CKP82]

Until you get your ammonia and nitrite down you can slow down their build up by feeding less. Twice a week is fine for a few weeks as fish, unlike us, do not need fuel for keeping warm.

I add the dechlorinator, then the water via a hose. I haven't had any issue by just adding the amount for the new water.

I was feeding every other day. I'll try every third day now to help cut down the ammonia