I think my cycling is stuck

[becky412]

Hello all,

I am looking for some help with what else......cycling. I am not a beginner as far as owning an aquarium, just been out of the hobby for a few years. Anyway, now that I am retired, I decided I wanted to get back into the hobby and bought a 55 gallon glass aquarium, with stand, canopy, tank covers and LED lighting. The fishless cycling was intriguing to me as I was used to setting up the aquarium, getting a couple of fish, once they were established, get some more and so on. Of course there was that cycling issue that had to be dealt with but back in the day, with the exception of my salt tank, I didn't have a way test water other than visually and scheduled water changes.

So, here I am. I purchased some API Quick Start and when I found out about Dr. Tim's ammoniun chloride, I ordered that. I followed the "recipe card" instructions and wrote down all the pH, NH4, Nitrate and Nitrite levels now for 6 days. the Quick Start was started a day or 2 before I added the ammonium chloride - that would make 8 days of cycling. I measure my levels using dip strips. Remembering the salt water testing using the vials, I thought these would be easier. For the past 6 days of measurements, nothing, and I mean NOTHING, has changed. ammonia stays at 1, pH around 7.2,carbonate 40, akalinity 80 and hardness at 75. I get NO reading for Cl, nitrate or nitrite. I finished my 4 oz bottle of Dr. Tim's today and I bought some Seachem Stability today. I had not been adding any nitrifying bacteria daily because Dr. Tim's didn't say it was necessary and all the YouTube videos did not make it clear that I needed to.

So..........am I just being impatient? Should I have added the nitrifying bacteria all along? When I feel my plastic decor, I can feel it has a slick surface so can I assume that is biofilm? I really!!!! do not want to drain this tank and start over, I get water from a well. I am ready to just buy some sacrificial feeder gold fish and do it the old fashioned way.

Thanks.

 

[Colin_T]

I would be adding the liquid filter bacteria supplement straight away.

I recommend adding a double dose every day for a week and then pour the remaining contents into the tank. Try to add the supplement near the filter intake so it gets drawn into the filter where it belongs.

 

[becky412]

When you say to add the "liquid filter bacter supplement", are you talking about the Seachem or a different supplement. Where would I buy this supplement? If it isn't at a PetsMart or Petco, the closest "real" aquarium store is 1 hour away.

I neglected to state that I am running an Aquatop Forza FZ9 with spray bar and 2 80 gph 4circulating heads on opposite sides of the aquarium to increase the circulation above the substrate. I have course, medium and fine sponges in bottom tray, ceramic rings in middle tray and Biohome Mini Ultra in the top tray. The substrate is pea gravel. The temp rests between 79.5 and 80.5.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Ho Becky- a few things here.

1. Ammonium Chloride is food for the bacteria, it is not bacteria. It is a simple easy way to add ammonia during a fishless cyc;e.
2. The nitirifying bacreria reproduce by dividing, they do not form spores. SeaChem Stability is a bottle of spores.
3. The actual bacteria that ends up in a tank were discovered by Doctor Timothy Hovanec aka Dr. Tim. He and co-researchers along with the congolmerate that owns Marineland and Tetra holds patents on the nitrite oxidizing bacteria and athe method fpor detecting them. This prevents most of the reast of the industry from being able to use them.
3. If you want to add bacteria for cycling to your tank choose wither Dr. Tim's One and Only for Freshwater tanks por get Tetyra Safe Start )or Safe Start Plus). Both contain what you need.
4. Depending on which one you get, follow their directions and ignore anything else.

I have used Dr. Tim's a number of times. But I normally set up a bio-farm and cycle filters instead of tanks. I use the One and Only to give things a Jump start. But to save money I buy about half of what bacteria I need and then get it reproducing to cycle all the filters. But I am needing to get multiple tanks cycled fast and this is the best way.

Also the ammonium chloride dosing for tanks over about 10 gallons should be done in ml not drops. 1 ml of the ammonium chloride will raise ammonia levels in a 20 gal tank by 2.6 ppm on an API test kit. This is enough for cycling most tanks. For a 55 gal which really only holds about 45 gal. depending on how much decor/substrate is in it, you would need to add 2 ml of the ammonium chloride.

4 oz. is 120 ml. At 2 ml/dose and using a max 7 doses for cycling without bacteria, you should use about 14 ml. There is no way putting 4 oz of ammonium chloride into a 55 will do anything good. Too much ammonia brings the wrong strains of bacteria to the tank and they will not survive for long once the tanks depends on the fish for ammonia.

If you want to cycle using Dr;. Tim's Products, then you need to be looking here https/www.drtimsaquatics.com/resources/library/quick-guide-to-fishless-cycling-wit-one-and-only/

If you want to do a fishless cycle without seeding bacteria, then you need to follow the directions here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ I guarantee that if you follow those directions to the letter, you cannot fail to cycle your tank in the shortest possible time for your parameters. It will take 4 -6 weeks.

 

[becky412]

Ho Becky- a few things here.

1. Ammonium Chloride is food for the bacteria, it is not bacteria. It is a simple easy way to add ammonia during a fishless cyc;e.
2. The nitirifying bacreria reproduce by dividing, they do not form spores. SeaChem Stability is a bottle of spores.
3. The actual bacteria that ends up in a tank were discovered by Doctor Timothy Hovanec aka Dr. Tim. He and co-researchers along with the congolmerate that owns Marineland and Tetra holds patents on the nitrite oxidizing bacteria and athe method fpor detecting them. This prevents most of the reast of the industry from being able to use them.
3. If you want to add bacteria for cycling to your tank choose wither Dr. Tim's One and Only for Freshwater tanks por get Tetyra Safe Start )or Safe Start Plus). Both contain what you need.
4. Depending on which one you get, follow their directions and ignore anything else.

I have used Dr. Tim's a number of times. But I normally set up a bio-farm and cycle filters instead of tanks. I use the One and Only to give things a Jump start. But to save money I buy about half of what bacteria I need and then get it reproducing to cycle all the filters. But I am needing to get multiple tanks cycled fast and this is the best way.

Also the ammonium chloride dosing for tanks over about 10 gallons should be done in ml not drops. 1 ml of the ammonium chloride will raise ammonia levels in a 20 gal tank by 2.6 ppm on an API test kit. This is enough for cycling most tanks. For a 55 gal which really only holds about 45 gal. depending on how much decor/substrate is in it, you would need to add 2 ml of the ammonium chloride.

4 oz. is 120 ml. At 2 ml/dose and using a max 7 doses for cycling without bacteria, you should use about 14 ml. There is no way putting 4 oz of ammonium chloride into a 55 will do anything good. Too much ammonia brings the wrong strains of bacteria to the tank and they will not survive for long once the tanks depends on the fish for ammonia.

If you want to cycle using Dr;. Tim's Products, then you need to be looking here https/www.drtimsaquatics.com/resources/library/quick-guide-to-fishless-cycling-wit-one-and-only/

If you want to do a fishless cycle without seeding bacteria, then you need to follow the directions here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ I guarantee that if you follow those directions to the letter, you cannot fail to cycle your tank in the shortest possible time for your parameters. It will take 4 -6 weeks.

Thank you. It apprears I have done everything wrong even though I followed directions. I have watched Youtube video after Youtube video and they all show either the API, Fritz or Seachem. API touting that you can add it and then immediately add fish - which I did not. I do not have a reputable aquarium store close to get some seeded filter floss. Youtube videos said add "nitirifying bacteria" which API and Seachem states it has on the label. So, where do I go from here? Do I do a 50% water change and refill and go from there? Do I just order yet more Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride and the bacteria and if so, what size bottle of of the ammonium do I purchase? 8oz?

I am feeling really defeated here. Probably should have just gone with the sacrificial feeder fish. If I wanted to go that way, what would I use to get rid of the ammonia currently in the aquarium. If the fish survive, I can put them in my outdoor pond or give to a friend with a pond.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

If you want to do a fast cycle with dr Tim's products look on Amazon. Then you need the 4 oz bottle of One and Only and you need the smallest size ammonium chloride offered 2 oz. If you have any Q's about his directions shoot me a site PM. I normally respond fairly fast but not 100% of the time.

Of course they state that, it is what I call a true lie. SeaChem contains spores for other types on bacteria that can impact ammonia but then you tank will replace them with the right ones. The thing is the manufacturers want to compete on every product, even the ones they cannot really do so. Don't believe them- use dr. Times of else tetra's Safe Start they share the patents I mentioned.

I have read all 3 of Hovanec's cycling related papers. I have read his patent applications as well. I have even exchanged a few emails with him about 17 years ago. The last time I used it was when setting up my outdoor summer tanks in late may/early June. 8 tanks holding 220 gallons. I cycled the 15 assorted foam filters for all the tank in a 40 gal and jump started it with an 8 oz bottle of Dr; Tim's bacteria and filter squeezings from the sponges media in some of my established tanks. I use dry ammonium chloride and mix my own solutions as it is cheaper. But I have a lifetime supply I will never use up before I die. I posted about the project here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/...o-go-into-8-summer-tanks.481266/#post-4178063

 

[becky412]

If you want to do a fast cycle with dr Tim's products look on Amazon. Then you need the 4 oz bottle of One and Only and you need the smallest size ammonium chloride offered 2 oz. If you have any Q's about his directions shoot me a site PM. I normally respond fairly fast but not 100% of the time.

Of course they state that, it is what I call a true lie. SeaChem contains spores for other types on bacteria that can impact ammonia but then you tank will replace them with the right ones. The thing is the manufacturers want to compete on every product, even the ones they cannot really do so. Don't believe them- use dr. Times of else tetra's Safe Start they share the patents I mentioned.

I have read all 3 of Hovanec's cycling related papers. I have read his patent applications as well. I have even exchanged a few emails with him about 17 years ago. The last time I used it was when setting up my outdoor summer tanks in late may/early June. 8 tanks holding 220 gallons. I cycled the 15 assorted foam filters for all the tank in a 40 gal and jump started it with an 8 oz bottle of Dr; Tim's bacteria and filter squeezings from the sponges media in some of my established tanks. I use dry ammonium chloride and mix my own solutions as it is cheaper. But I have a lifetime supply I will never use up before I die. I posted about the project here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/...o-go-into-8-summer-tanks.481266/#post-4178063

Okay, I will order the bacteria (4 oz) and ammonium (2oz). If I am still reading ammonia when the one and only arrives, should I add more ammonia? Delivery will be on Sunday.

 

[Colin_T]

When you say to add the "liquid filter bacter supplement", are you talking about the Seachem or a different supplement. Where would I buy this supplement? If it isn't at a PetsMart or Petco, the closest "real" aquarium store is 1 hour away.

The API Quickstart or another brand if you have that.

Most pet shops sell one or two brands of liquid filter bacteria supplements. They are dormant bacteria in a bottle of liquid that is used to help speed up the cycling process.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Amazon Amazon Amazon-

If you are going to do a restart, do as big a water change as you can and refill the tank with dechlored water. if possible uou want one that also doesn't detoxify ammonia since is will slow the cycling some. But it will not prevent it so do not worry.

The goal of the big water change is to get any ammonia nitrite and nitrate out of the tank. A small amount of any of these is not a huge deal but I would like you to be no higher then .25 ppm of ammonia or nitrite and miimimal nitrate. the nitrate is less of a concern.

If you have any questions about what to do when the products arrive is you are not 100% sure, post here or shoot me a site PM and I will work with you. The trick is not to over complicate things.

In reading the guide on Dr. Tin's site I do not see the instruction to shake the bottle of bacteria well before you add it. Please do this. Also follow what he states exactly. There is one problem with Dr. Tim's method because he is a scientist. There are two different scales that can be used to measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. One is the Nitrogen scale which is what he uses and is signified by the -N you will see after his ppm readings like Ammonia as NH3-N or Nitrite NO2-N. However, most hobby test kits use the Total Ion scale.

So you need to convert his numbers to the total ion scale. This is simple it is just like measuring distance in miles or kilometers. They can be converted to each other. So can the nitrogen and Total Ion scales. When you see a ppm for ammonia from Dr. T, multiply it by 1.28 and for nitrite multiply it by 3.28. Easy peasy. You have the numbers to look for on your hobby test kits.

Understand one thing, the method you will be following is designed to allow you to stock the tank fully when the cycle is done. If you do not, you will lose some of the bacteria. The you will have to limit how many new fish you introduce and when. But is you want to stock gradually, you can do that without much cycling at all. Add the bacteria and one dose of ammonia. As soon as it and nitrite are 0 you can start to add fish slowly. Then you must vonntinue doing this over time.

The amount of bacteria in a tank is a function of the amount of ammonia being created. If there is more ammonia than the bacteria need, they divide. However, if the ammonia level is lowered as some of bacteria naturally die off, they will not be replaced, there will be minimal reproduction until the entire bacterial community numbers have shrunk until thay are in balance with the lower ammonia level.

Ammonia controls the cycle.

 

[becky412]

Amazon Amazon Amazon-

If you are going to do a restart, do as big a water change as you can and refill the tank with dechlored water. if possible uou want one that also doesn't detoxify ammonia since is will slow the cycling some. But it will not prevent it so do not worry.

The goal of the big water change is to get any ammonia nitrite and nitrate out of the tank. A small amount of any of these is not a huge deal but I would like you to be no higher then .25 ppm of ammonia or nitrite and miimimal nitrate. the nitrate is less of a concern.

If you have any questions about what to do when the products arrive is you are not 100% sure, post here or shoot me a site PM and I will work with you. The trick is not to over complicate things.

In reading the guide on Dr. Tin's site I do not see the instruction to shake the bottle of bacteria well before you add it. Please do this. Also follow what he states exactly. There is one problem with Dr. Tim's method because he is a scientist. There are two different scales that can be used to measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. One is the Nitrogen scale which is what he uses and is signified by the -N you will see after his ppm readings like Ammonia as NH3-N or Nitrite NO2-N. However, most hobby test kits use the Total Ion scale.

So you need to convert his numbers to the total ion scale. This is simple it is just like measuring distance in miles or kilometers. They can be converted to each other. So can the nitrogen and Total Ion scales. When you see a ppm for ammonia from Dr. T, multiply it by 1.28 and for nitrite multiply it by 3.28. Easy peasy. You have the numbers to look for on your hobby test kits.

Understand one thing, the method you will be following is designed to allow you to stock the tank fully when the cycle is done. If you do not, you will lose some of the bacteria. The you will have to limit how many new fish you introduce and when. But is you want to stock gradually, you can do that without much cycling at all. Add the bacteria and one dose of ammonia. As soon as it and nitrite are 0 you can start to add fish slowly. Then you must vonntinue doing this over time.

The amount of bacteria in a tank is a function of the amount of ammonia being created. If there is more ammonia than the bacteria need, they divide. However, if the ammonia level is lowered as some of bacteria naturally die off, they will not be replaced, there will be minimal reproduction until the entire bacterial community numbers have shrunk until thay are in balance with the lower ammonia level.

Ammonia controls the cycle.

Ok, thank you for holding my hand duing this. My Dr. Tim's One and Only and another bottle of the Ammonium Chloride is due to come today. I have attached a pic of that my water testing strips are showing. The multi test one values have held steady for going on 2 weeks. The single one is Ammonia. I am supposed to also recieve the API Master testing kit today. Basically so I can see if my strips are reflecting erroneous values and also for comparison values. They were bought, I have used them. Doubt I can send back at this point so will keep and use later. When the master kit arrives I will test the water with that to see if values are true.

So, per the ammonia testing strip, it appears that ammonia is being recorded at 6 mg/L (started out at 1 mg/L, then 2, then jumped to 6)- probably due to the previous 4 oz bottle of Dr. T's ammonium chloride (that is now gone) and no bacteria to eat it. Assuming this is correct -
1) I should do a large water change to lower that before adding the One & Only - correct?
2) Should water change be 50% or more?
3) I get water from a well, so is the use of a declorinator necessary?
4) I will NOT add any more of the ammonium chloride unless it tests after water chage less than 2 mg/L - correct?
5) Then start with the recipe card Dr. T has laid out - correct?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

When I said do as big a water change as you can, that is exactly what I meant. I did no\it say a percent because if you can change 90%, do so or if it is 80% do so. We want your tank to have as little from the nitrogen complex as possible. We want you tank to have as much of what the bacteria needs that comes in with the water as possible and there is no way to measure it all.

Most private wells do not have chlorine or chloramine. However, shared community wells mught. I have great well water and have never needed to use dechlor. Because modern times have brought chlormaine into the water treatment process, dechlors had to be able to handle that. Chlormaine is created by combining chlorine and ammonia. Regular dechkor breaks apart the bond and then detoxifies the chlorine, But then this leaves the ammonia. So the solution was to ad ammonia detoxifiers to the the dechlor. These basicallywork by changing the ammonia to ammonium which is way less toxic than ammonia. However, the bacteria prefer using ammonia and cannot handle ammonium as efficiently and this will slow a cycle some.

So, you need to know your well is not one which might get some chlorine/chloramine added. This is not common but if you want to be 100% certain if you know anybody with and swimming pool, they likely have a chlorine test kit and could check a sample of your tap water. I hate to see you spend money for the test since you will probably only use it the one time.

Backing up a bit, the reason for doing the huge water change is to remove as much of what we don't want and to return what we do for your cycle to move forward. Then you need to follow Dr. Tim's directions to the letter. There are good resons for this because there is a big difference between doing a fishless cycle without adding any bacteria to jump start it v.s. waiting for a small amount of bacteria from your tap or even a bit from the air to get things going. Bear in mind when we are dealing with bacteria we are dealing with things of microscopic size. The amount of moisture it takes to keep them safe can be found in the humidity in the air, safe in terms of them not dying because they dry out.

In the mormal fishless cycle we get ammonia oxidizers because there is ammonia in the water. But there is no nitrite yet so thes guys have nothing to support them. Once the ammonia bacteria build up and are working, there is nitrite and those bacteira can start to colonize. But, using the Dr. Tim's One and Only your are getting both types all at once. And the balanace between the two kinds is such that whatever ammonia those guys in the bottle can turn to nitrite, the nitrite ones are fully prepared to turn to nitrate. There is no waiting time.

So what happens is you have the tank filled with new clean water. You have it heated into the upper 80s or even the low 80s. You can always chane the the temp to suit the fish after the cycle is done. But it goes faster the warmer the water is, up to a point. Low 80s works fine. The next step is to make sure the lights on the tank are off, the filter(s) are going and you do not have any fine mesh in the filteration system (you likely do not).

Next, you want to add the ammonium chloride. You want to follow the directions for dosing it on Dr. Tim's site. When you put the 2 ppm of ammonia-N, this will be about 2.6 ppm on your new API kit. From this point on everything you will do will be dictated buy the readings you will take for ammonia and nitrite. You will only add more ammonia when the numbers on your tesy kits tell you tit is time.

It is possible that only one of the two parameters may be at the point of adding more ammonia. If so you must wait to add until the other parameter is at the five ppm or lower, not if it is higher. Remember, you must multiply Dr. Tim's numbers by the factors I listed when you use thr API kit. "When you see a ppm for ammonia from Dr. T, multiply it by 1.28 and for nitrite multiply it by 3.28."

Here is an example: Dr. T says not to let ammonia or nitrite get above 5 ppm-N, So what you need yo be aware of is that on your API kit for ammonia that number is 5 x 1.28 = 6.4 ppm. Nitrite at 5 ppm-N x 3.28 = 16.4 ppm. Now you will notoce that ther API kit only goes up to 5 ppm and that is not even close to 16.4. If you actually hit 5 ppm on the test kit it could be 5 ppm but it a;lso could be more. The only way to know is to modify how you test. Either by doing diluted testing or changing either the number of drops (using fewer) or the amount of sample water (using more). You should not have to do this, but if you must and are nit sure, I should be able to walk you through it.

When I wrote the fishless cyeling article on this site I based it on Dr. Tim's methodology. But I made alterations to it. I wanted to remove the potential for needing diluted testing from it. So I modified the dosing some and the timing of it as well. However, whether one used his system or mine, the total amount of ammonia going in to end up with a completed cycle was almost identical. I aLso tried to make the methodology more fail-safe. If one follows it to the letter it should not be possible to stall a cycle.

One final note here that should help. Every tank is unique when it comes down the the notty gritty of what may be in one's water chemically and biologically speaking. We cannot measure of lot of this. But the small difference in things we are not measuring will affect
how fast one's cycle proceeds. Set up two tanks of the same size with different temps, different substrate different filters and different decor and then start tp cycle both adding the same amount of ammonia and you will find they cycle at somewhat different speeds. It is the minute difference we cannot see that will be responsible for this.

Understand that you would not be doing anything wrong in either tank, it is just that the slight differences can change the speed of the cycle some. So one tank may cycle in 35 daya and the other might take 37 or 38. But they will both be cycled when the test numbers show that they are.

There is also one key ingredient needed for a successful cycle that most articles etc. never tell you about. That is patience. All cycles proceed in the same step by step process. Only the speed of the cycle will be different. This is why we must rely on test results to tell us at what point we are and that dictates the next step to take. Ignore the process and/or the test results and you will likely fail. Do not overthink things, rely on what the test numbers tell you is going on in the tank and follow the directions.

You can do this, it is not rocket science it is more like cooking and following a recipe or in the days before GPS, reading a map to get somewhere. Both Dr. Tim's site and this site provide the needed road maps to complete a cycle successively. Just remember that when you see a ppm for ammonia from Dr. T, to multiply it by 1.28 and for nitrite to multiply it by 3.28. You need to do this for the API test kit results to match his directions.

Finally, if you get stuck and need help you can always shoot me a site PM. I get an email notification when somebody sends me a PM and I may respond sooner to that than to a post.

 

[becky412]

WOW!!! thanks for that very informative response. I think I have my answer now, not necessarily from you. Check out the picture below. My ammonia is more than off the scale. I like that shade of green, but not in my aquarium. So, am going to drain my aquarium way, way down and refill. Test again and if necessary drain some more off until I get lower/no ammonia readings.

My neighbor across the road has a pool. I will have to ask her if she tests it or if a company comes out and tests. She may or may not have the answer. The county is offering well water testing, which I am doing not just for my aquarium, but for myself. Been 17 years since my well was tested, might be time. That will give me a lot more information. Unfortunately, I do not know when those results will be back as the test is being run by Virignia Tech. Could be a month, or less.

I hope others will learn from this debacle, and I hope this time it works.

 

[becky412]

Okay, after draining to the bottom glass, 1/2 filling and testing and then draining X 3 times, removing all the decorations (rinsing off in very hot water) and shoving the gravel around I finally have a 0 ppm both at 1/2 full and full. BUT!!! Now my pH is in the basement. Have to work on that now.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Water coming in that contains a lot of C02 will show a pH level lower than it really is. When the excess CO2 is removed, the pH rises to its natural level. So, to be sure a tap water pH test is accurate you should fill a small clean container with tap water. Then drop in an airstone or line connected to an airpump and let it bubble for a while. The bigger the container the longer you should bubble. Usually about 30 minutes is more than enough. Then test for the pH.

Here is the next water chemistry lesson Ammonia in water separates into two different forms. A bit remains as ammonia (NH3) which is very toxic for fish, But most will turn to ammonium (NH4+) which is way less so. The bacteria want the NH3 while plants would want the ammonium. Plants can use ammonium faster than bacteria can use ammonia.

Next, most hobby ammonia test kits (including the API one) read the sum of the two forms of ammonia which is called Total Ammonia (TA). The fun part of this that one cam remove a-virtually all the ammpoina in a tank by removing just NH3 or just NH4. As this is done, the remaining TA will convert some of it left such that the NH3/NH4 balance is restored to where is was. This is happens pretty quickly.

How much of each type is in the water depends on two parameters- pH and Temp. The first is more important. However, as either is raised the more of the TA that will be NH3. The same reading for TA will be less harmful when ones pH is acid (under 7.0) than when it is alkaline (over 7.0) because a 6.0 virrtually all of the TA is NH4.

Finally, the bacteria may prefer NH3, but they can also use NH4. However, they do this less efficiently so it takes more time for them to use it up. What this means is if you water is 6.0, your cycle will go more slowly. It may even appear to stop. but it hasn't. It is easy enoug to correct things for your tank if the pH is really that acid. The bubble test with answer that.

However, if your tap water is as low as it appears, your choice of fish becomes limited. And usually when the water is acidic, it is also softer. And the hardness is a more important parameter for the fish than the pH.

So, do the bubble test and report back herr the results. Raising the pH is mot all that hard. But then how you do your water changes will become more complex. You want the replacement water to be close to the same parmeters as the tank water. But let's nit cross this bridge until we know you have to do so.

No matter how things proceed, I can help you to deal with them. So please do not get worried. There are no prizes for cycling a tank a bit faster, only for crossing the finish line. I can usually instantly cycle a new tank because I have everything needed to do this- the knowledge and experience plus many cycled tanks from which I can swipe things. Plus I often have a bottle of Dr. Tim's bacteria in my fridge. Nobody has given me a cycling or for any of this. But my fish would if they could I bet.

 

[becky412]

I think my head is going to explode........... If only the stupid strip had not lead me astray.......