Supercoley's First Planted Tank Adventure

[SuperColey1]

Well after a mini crisis, my worries over an ammonia+Nitrite spike are over and we are back to 0.

Decision on the new lighting has been made and it will be:
Interpet dual twin compact 55w starter (110W)
1 x T5 twincompact 55w Daylight Plus, and 1 x T5 twincompact 55W Triplus.
This will give me over 112Ltrs of water about 4.2WPG.

Also there will now be 2 Nutrafin CO2 kits on this tank.
Tropica liquid fertiliser will be used.

All this will happen in 3-4 weeks (Birthday time for me)

Thought I'd let you all see a few new pics and also a close up of the plant I am trying to 're ID'

New pic of full tank

This is my favourite plant and is the one I want ID for.

The Water milfoil (if that is what it is) is growing really well (Bettas favourite hidey hole)

And the dwarf Riccia is starting to sprout a little from the net (I'm not expecting too much too soon, this is gonna take time)

More pics at the weekend, but at least I have no green water (probs due to the UV) and now the plecs have actually started to scour the glass for algae at night, so the magnet is back in the safe.

Thanks for looking, and until the weekend....byee

 

[lljdma06]

I think 4.2WPG is going to be overkill unless you have a pressurized CO2 system. You do intend to go pressurized? I was able to maintain a high-tech at 3.6WPG with DIY CO2, but it was very hard keeping the CO2 stable enough to ward off algae, and it was a small tank (15g).

I have seen the plant in the second photo below. What stops me from guessing a variety of alternantera or hygrophila is the serrated edges to the leaves, though it's color pattern suggests a hygrophila polysperma variety. It seems they come up with a new one of those everyday. I have seen this type of leaf before, but it was on a plant sold as an aquatic, but it really wasn't. The plant in the third picture looks like Egeria densa to me. It is a colder water plant and gets spindly under warmer conditions. It looks exactly the same in my tanks, but my outside specimens! Absolutely huge and covered in dense dark leaves!

 

[SuperColey1]

I was thinking Hygro Poly from the colouring and the way it grows so quickly.

I don't think the other is Egeria Densa, I hava Egeria Densa on the left and also a few cuttings from the left are now planted on the right, different colour (dark green) thrice as high thrice the size leaves etc. Looking on plantgeek I think it looks most like Water Milfoil. Whenyou unravel the cuttings of this plant it is like a plant version of a bamboo rollmat, and I seperated 5 bunches of 4 and planted them like that which made them look a bit like a wall, although since they started to grow up a bit they are now seperating from the uniform line. As a gauge they are about 6 inches tall in the pic from cuttings that were 4 inches, whereas the Egeria I have is 20 inches from cuttings that were 8 inches. This from 18 days of being in there.

Lighting wise. I am open to constructive criticism or advice. I know 4.2WPG sounds a lot, and Themulous has also advised the same as you.

What about these options then:

Option 1 - 1 x single 55W twin compact with daylightplus tube (2.1WPG)
Option 2 - 1 x dual 39W twin compact with daylight plus and triplus tubes (3WPG)
Option 3 - 1 x dual 55W twin compact with daylight plus and triplus tubes (4.2WPG) and hope for the best!!!

As well as having 2 nutrafin kits linked I was going to get one of the glass diffusers, similar to Tom Barr's Venturi DIY one with a ceramic plate.

My CO2 is steady, or so it seems. 1 kit at the mo is producing 1 bubble every 4 secs, so I assume 2 will give me 1 bubble every 2 secs.

I know I keep saying it and it is the easy man's answer to a problem, but I do have the UV working in there against any floating algae particles, and the pitbull plecs have just started getting the hang of 'sliding' down the glass (they even do it in the day, they're not shy at all) and the mollies are constantly pecking at the leaves' surfaces.

Do you think I'll still have the algae problem with all these counteracting?

As always interested in opinions and advice.

 

[lljdma06]

It very well could be Hygro polysperma, I've just never seen a variety with serated leaves before.

I didn't say it was Egeria densa, I only said it looked like Egeria densa. It probably is water water milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum), but it is hard to tell from your picture, and when I googled the plant, it didn't look like the plant in your picture either. The picture is under exposed.

Option 1 sounds the most feasible to me, and you will probably be able to grow most of what you have in your tank without a problem. Option 2 should also work alright if your CO2 is stable. Once bubble per 4 seconds isn't enough and 1 bubble per 2 seconds won't be enough for the lighting upgrades of options 2 and 3. You should aim for a stable bubble per second. What's the mix you're using now?

The UV sterilizer is the easy way out, but if you've got one, why not use it? There were days when I first setup my 8g when I wish I had one. I would have enjoyed that tank more and perhaps not have stripped it down. But it was a great learning experience figuring out why I was having greenwater trouble and solving the problem. The 8g's current Dutch setup is testament to that learning process.

llj

 

[SuperColey1]

I didn't say it was Egeria densa, I only said it looked like Egeria densa. It probably is water water milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum), but it is hard to tell from your picture, and when I googled the plant, it didn't look like the plant in your picture either. The picture is under exposed.

I know crappy camera but here is a link to what looks like an identical plant (alternatively might be Myacca something or other)
http/www.plantgeek.net/images/plantpics/mpinnatum.jpg

The plants that are in there are from a cheap collection (£11 delivered) which I bought to start myself on this journey of pain, excitement, frustration and experimentation. I wanted to get the tank stable for the first 1½-2 months to start introducing different plants, and also to test some plants out in the tank, what would work what wouldn't etc.

I want with the lighting upgrade(s) to be able to get some more delicate plants and keep the discovery and experimentation going rather than 'they work lets get more of them and leave it at that'. I am very new to planted and not scared to make mistakes, in fact it's good I make a lot of mistakes and learn more in the process, every week I am learning more and more, not only from the minimal info the plants and fish give me, but the research and reading I end up doing, and also advice given in threads and also from replies in this journal.

The Co2 is a Nutrafin Kit and using my bread making machine measures (you have to be as close to exact as possible with most bread machines) I accurately measure ½cup sugar (fills to the first line), and then put on top 2 x ¼ teaspoon of yeast (levelled off with back of knife) then top up with warmish water (to the top line). These mirror the guidelines in George's pin, but also mean that every week the amount is exact, so there is no difference in mixture. The kit is placed on my hood above the ballast unit and therefore accelerates when the tubes are on and vice versa.

I don't want to get into the realms of yeast getting into the tank, but am at the tank a lot of the time, so I could experiment with 3 x ¼ teaspoon and see what happens there, but as stated in another thread, I don't want anything external from the tank, as I have a 19 month old who fiddles with everything and a 7 month old that will soon get to that stage. This is why I have an internal filter, an internal heater, and internal UV steriliser, and CO2 that can easily rest on top of the hood.

I will experiment for the next week and turn off the UV and see what happens (unless I get an outbreak of anything disease wise then I'll be cursing like mad. lol)

Thanks for the info and advice.

Andy

 

[JamieH]

The Co2 is a Nutrafin Kit and using my bread making machine measures (you have to be as close to exact as possible with most bread machines) I accurately measure ½cup sugar (fills to the first line), and then put on top 2 x ¼ teaspoon of yeast (levelled off with back of knife) then top up with warmish water (to the top line). These mirror the guidelines in George's pin, but also mean that every week the amount is exact, so there is no difference in mixture. The kit is placed on my hood above the ballast unit and therefore accelerates when the tubes are on and vice versa.

I don't want to get into the realms of yeast getting into the tank, but am at the tank a lot of the time, so I could experiment with 3 x ¼ teaspoon and see what happens there, but as stated in another thread, I don't want anything external from the tank, as I have a 19 month old who fiddles with everything and a 7 month old that will soon get to that stage. This is why I have an internal filter, an internal heater, and internal UV steriliser, and CO2 that can easily rest on top of the

try setting up a bottle with water so your c02 bubbles through that first... that will help to stop any getting in the tank.

 

[SuperColey1]

Good News for the meat eaters!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All the fish have been a bit active yesterday and today, and the big black molly female has been looking a little sick and stressed and sitting at the bottom a lot. The male black molly and other female black molly and also the female baloon have been chasing her all over, and I figured there may be a powere battle in the tank. (Although suspicious of something else)

about half an hour ago I noticed the Red Better on a mission swimming the full length of the tank then back then zig zagging through the plants, and on closer inspection my suspicions have been confirmed. He was chasing a ½cm long black molly fry. On firther closer inspection I can see about 10 hiding in the plants here and there, and I can also see the glolight tetras munching away, as well as the Betta stalking his prey. lol

This must be a sign that my tank is in good health surely or I would've thought that the Black molly would've aborted (still born)

Hoping anyway. The fry will stay in there and I won't feed now for a 2 days so that I don't get my overstocked tank over-over stocked.

WaaHey

Its great watching the Betta in action, and the tetras are as tehy would be in the wild. All seperated all stalking their own patch for the fry that at last is live food that they can fit in their mouths.

11 now.

 

[lljdma06]

Cute mollies. I kind of feel sorry for them, but the carnivore in me is actually enjoying the bloodshed.

My dwarf platy dropped fry a week ago, but things aren't as wild in my tank. The sickly looking molly you had is probably the one who dropped. Females can be a bit loopy after they drop fry. Imagine how you'd feel if you dropped 20+ babies in the course of a day. I know, I wouldn't feel so hot the next day.

 

[SuperColey1]

News this week is that I am not going to get the lights as soon as I wanted cos the bills have just piled up and also the bank has f****d my direct debits up the last 2 months (I thought I had more money and now I gotta pay unpaid bills. lol)

I swapped the 40+ 2 day old mollie fry for a fourth pitbull plec which I think is female so now I have 2 male, 2 female. I know I was overstocked already but ammonia was 0, Nitrite was 0, Nitrate was 20 so I thought 1 more won't hurt. There are still a few fry left in there because I couldn't get them all (Whos silly idea was it to put all these plants in. lol)

You're right about the mollie that looked sick being the one that dropped, but it wasn't from the dropping that she got sick. It was from the male, other female and balloon female all chasing her about for the whole day (obviously sensing food is about to come) she has lost a couple of scales, and is looking very tired (after 70+ fry, I am not surprised). We'll have to see if she perks up.

On the plants front everything has bushed out. I have had to cut the tops off the egeria/Elodia and the Cabomba so they would be straighter, and so they'd bush out rather than grow up.

Full Tank shot from the front today

And from the Jimboo Angle

The Riccia 'thatched roof' is coming on although slowly under low light

Now what has happened here, is I've moved 1 of the plantlets of the unknown ivy style leafed plant and fed the side shoots from the rhisome under one of the cotton threads holding the riccia net down.

and another Ive pushed the rhisome into a nook or crevice in the mopani, then lent a small piece of slate there to hold it into place.

I don't know if these are some sort of anubia, and I am just hoping that they will take hold and root to the wood. Can anyone give me any advice her. i.e how long this takes, or if this plant looks like an anubia etc.

Anyway, until next week. Thanks for reading.

 

[SuperColey1]

I got tired of the Rotala Macrandra's sickly appearance today, and didn't think it will get any better. With me not getting a lighting upgrade for a while yet it would've continued to rot, so in I went and took it out.

I've moved the Ludwigia red variety (I forget its extended name) into this patch so it is out of the shadow of the 'tree'

This has left the middle section a little bare, but hopefully the Ludwigia will start to grow like the other plants in the tank.

Another thing is that I noticed 1 trumpet snail on the glass yesterday!! I left it in as it looks kinda cool with its sandy coloured cone shell. tonight I noticed 3 of the blighters working their way through the surface of the sand. Doing a cool job of cleaning, but how much of a breeding problem am I gonna have here?

 

[Themuleous]

Over population of snails is a classic sign of overfeeding the fish, if you get to many reduce the fish food. Thats the easiest way to control them.

Sam

 

[SuperColey1]

I think these came in the riccia, wlong with some ramshorns. The 'pest' snails have all but disappeared. The ramshorns and trumpets only appeared this week (1 week after adding the Riccia). I think I'll see how many 'children' they have then decide what action to take.

They only get 2 small pinches of flake at the mo because I don't want the pitbull plecs eating any leftovers, until the glass has been completely cleaned. (This will also deprive the snails of algae)

 

[SuperColey1]

Ok on with this weeks update.

I got tired of the dying Cypryus Helferi so out it came.
The Elodia Densa was just growing too fast, so I've removed a lot of it and just left in 3 stems (chopped at the water's surface hoping that it will thicken out a bit, rather than just growing on like a rope)

I've moved other plants:
Giant Hygro, I've spread out 2 on the left and 1 in the middle.
Echinodorus Belheri is now more spaced out.
Ludwigia Aquart/Hygro Poly Is now on the left because it grows so quick
Bacopa Caroliana and Bacopa Monnieri now filling the gap between cave and tree stump on the left.

All in all, there is a massive difference in light getting to the bottom and the tank looks a lot lighter, although this will only be until these plants fill out their new areas, by which time I should have the higher lighting I've been warbling on about for so long. lol

Further developments are that I have decided to add 1 more Nutrafin kit and a bubble counter plus a glass beetle diffusor instead of the Nutrafin Ladder (I'm tired of it getting smegged up and having to clean it every week)

On with pictures, which I have numbered the plants this time:

Full Tank Shot with numbers

1 - Ludwigia Aquarta/Hygrophylia Polysperma
2 - Giant Hygro
3 - Blyxia Japonica (looking very sorry for itself)
4 - Bacopa Monieri
5 - Bacopa Caroliana
6 - Baby Tears
7 - Dwarf Riccia
8 - Echinodorus Bleheri
9 - Ludwigia Repens?
10 - Anubia of some type?
11 - Myacca Fluviatalis?
12 - Indian Fern (very small and hiding but growing again)
13 - Cryptocoryne Wendtii (Brown)
14 - Elodia Densa
15 - Cabomba Caroliana

Left Side of Tank

Centre of Tank

Right of Tank

And the usual Arty shot from Jimboos Angle

Its still a very low tec tank at the moment with approx 1.5WPG (38W/circa 26G) and 1 Nutrafin and will be this way until later this month when I will get the new lights and extra CO2+accessories in and set up + using Tropica Mastergrow instead of the cheapo off ebay option (which seems to be working). I am still erring on the side of 2 x twin Compact T5 55W giving me 4.2WPG (110W/circa 26G) even though I have been advised to get lower (I am a stupid man really and just want to try it out, as I have been informed that I can replace the tubes in these units with lower wattage if it doesn't work out)

As a last point some of the plants were slightly yellowing in their leaves. I started using the cheapo fert at full dose (bear in mind that I am well overstocked here) and it has worked wonders. 2ml daily and the plants like the Echinodorous have lost their yellow spots in 4 days and are now lush green.

Thanks for looking
Andy

 

[sophos9]

Enjoyed reading your journal, the meat eating post was the best!

 

[SuperColey1]

Enjoyed reading your journal, the meat eating post was the best!

the meat eating is still going on. about 8 fry left, swopped about 40 for a 4th pitbull plec. he will grow them on for live food I should think. maybe sell a few. Still a good deal.

Its fast day today, so the plecs are on the glass eating algae, the mollies are cleaning the 'stubble' off the plants leaves, the danios are chasing the remaining fry, the betta is searching out snails eggs and the tetras are eating anything that was hidden but floats out when disturbed by the others.

Really amusing and very busy.

I'm glad you enjoyed reading my journal so far, I hope it remains enjoyable, especially for me. Big parts gonna be coming up with the new lights, extra CO2 and more plants in the next month or so. Will be make or break big stylee.

Andy