Nutrient deficiencies

[CaptainBarnicles]

I'm struggling to find a balance at the moment, I've got some algae of different varieties going on and my plants are suffering.

My lights are on for 12 hours () at a slow sun-up and sun-down with around 6 hours of 'full sun'. I'm only running them at around 75% so I don't feel it's excessive at the moment.

I usually do one or two 50-60% water changes a week and I dose with TNC lite....which I'm a bit slack at remembering to add

Can anyone help me figure out how to get my plants healthier please?

I don't hate algae but if my plants can't theive because of it then it's got to go!

Thank you

 

[Byron]

On the light...the six hours is the "daylight" period of every 24 hours, and assuming the intenesity is sufficient during this period the plants will photosynthesize, provided all necessary nutrients are present. It somewhat depends upon plant species, as slow growers need less intense light and less nutrients than do fast growers.

This six hour "daylight" is really the only light period that matters. The other six hours may be the issue or certainly part of it, with respect to the algae. If it is not "daylight" then it may not be sufficient for photosynthesis of the higher plants, so then it is only encouraging algae. This is why I always suggest keeping these "dawn" and "dusk" periods short, say 30 minutes. When the tank lighting is totally off, the ambient light in the room is unlikely to be causing algae, though it is a factor especially if it is bright daylight.

What is the spectrum of the "daylight" light?

Nutrients. Clearly something is wrong here. The TNC Lite is good, but it is not the whole story. Comprehensive fertilizers are intended to supplement the natural nutrients. These come from fish being fed and water changes. What is the GH of your source/tap water?

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

The sun up and sun down is purely aesthetic so I can definitely shorten these periods.

The room is bombarded by natural light unfortunately, that's why the tank light is running at a lower percentage.

I use root tabs...forgot to mention that!

I have very hard water, somewhere around 18

 

[Byron]

The sun up and sun down is purely aesthetic so I can definitely shorten these periods.

The room is bombarded by natural light unfortunately, that's why the tank light is running at a lower percentage.

I use root tabs...forgot to mention that!

I have very hard water, somewhere around 18

The light I would change as you suggest. And the bright daylight is without doubt a contributor of problem algae, I had it myself until I worked out that the increased daylight (intensity and duration) in summer caused increased brush algae in summer; blocked all windows (easy to doin a dedicated fish room) and end of problem algae.

The GH is supplying calcium and magnesium, so another issue solveed. This leave the root tabs--which brand, and how often/many? And are these the only plant additives?

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

The tank is in my living room, I have the curtains drawn most of the day as it gets so hot and stuffy. We have a big window to the right of the tank and patio doors on the wall opposite the tank, both get full sun for the duration of the day.

I've altered the duration to full daylight for 8 hours...

I really don't have a clue with the spectrum, I just played around until I liked the look.

I love seachem root tabs, I ran out a while back and tried easylife root sticks....I've not noticed a huge amount of growth with them, I think they're made of clay?

I noticed the BBA appearing after I moved the wavemaker, I used to have it blowing at the front glass of the tank to move the water around back to the inlet....I've moved it to blow at the surface to increase aeration....I wonder if that's what I've done wrong here? Increased surface agitation decreases c02 doesn't it?

 

[Byron]

Spectrum can be given as Kelvin or CRI (colour rendering index). Does it have the K for the "white?" This is where the best light will be. The red, blue and green individual diodes are not worth much, they are special effects but getting the balance right in the white light is the key.

 

[connorlindeman]

What light do you have? Is it the fluval plant 3.0?

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

As far as I'm aware it's 6500K, it's the generic LED that comes with the fluval tanks. I have the Plant 3.0 but it was waaaay too much tech for my tiny brain. Is it light that's causing the leaves to yellow and fall apart?

 

[Byron]

As far as I'm aware it's 6500K, it's the generic LED that comes with the fluval tanks. I have the Plant 3.0 but it was waaaay too much tech for my tiny brain. Is it light that's causing the leaves to yellow and fall apart?

No, the light should be fine. 6500K is good. Best range is 5000K to 6500K, close to sun, with sufficient red and blue and green.

I have no idea on the substrate sticks, but the Flourish Tabs are excellent for swords and similar rooted plants. GH is fine. Keep up with water changes. Are you adding any substance at all aside from a conditioner, and which of these? Is the water authority adding anything?

 

[connorlindeman]

As far as I'm aware it's 6500K, it's the generic LED that comes with the fluval tanks. I have the Plant 3.0 but it was waaaay too much tech for my tiny brain. Is it light that's causing the leaves to yellow and fall apart?

This guy breaks it down really well.

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

No, the light should be fine. 6500K is good. Best range is 5000K to 6500K, close to sun, with sufficient red and blue and green.

I have no idea on the substrate sticks, but the Flourish Tabs are excellent for swords and similar rooted plants. GH is fine. Keep up with water changes. Are you adding any substance at all aside from a conditioner, and which of these? Is the water authority adding anything?

I don't add anything other than the API Tap Water Conditioner (as encouraged by your very fine self) and the TNC lite....when I remember our water obviously has a myriad of dissolved minerals but I couldn't possibly say if the water provider is adding anything extra.

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

This guy breaks it down really well.

Yes, I love me a bit of Pascoe. I must have watched that video about a billion times but my ADHD goes 'look! A squirrel! 🐿'....I feel the 3.0 should really be used for high tech, c02 injected tanks and not my humble crypt garden, just too powerful!

 

[seangee]

How much surface cover (floating plants) do you have. For most of my tanks with "generic" leds I find that 50% is more than enough. The exception being my SA tank where I do use 100%, but close to 100% of the surface is covered by frogbit.

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

How much surface cover (floating plants) do you have. For most of my tanks with "generic" leds I find that 50% is more than enough. The exception being my SA tank where I do use 100%, but close to 100% of the surface is covered by frogbit.

I have zero floating plants. The surface agitation is hectic and nothing will live...not even Duckweed

 

[Byron]

I have zero floating plants. The surface agitation is hectic and nothing will live...not even Duckweed

Any chance of a video showing this hectic surface disturbance? It may be too great, which can drive CO2 out and there goes a macro-nutrient.