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My Torch & Polops Wont Open

my150

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I have an 8 gal,rimless  with6lb live rock from my 65 that I took apart. sponge filter in first chamber. Bio rings in 2nd. Just added 3 tablespoon of Carbon & Zeolite Blend in a media pouch to return chamber. Tank has been running for over 2 months but my polyps wont open and my torch is only part open. Ive moved Torch twice. It is currently under the return.What can I do?
 

betta fish

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What is the flow like in the tank? When I had a marine tank the torch did not like too much flow perhaps this is why, in a smaller tank they can get buffered quite a bit but they are also prone to sulking too, I would find a quieter area for the torch fairly near the light source and leave it be, if it is constantly moved it will sulk.
Also I used nothing but live rock as filtration and just did regular weekly changes of 20% I also had a small skimmer running but not sure if this is feasible in an 8 gal.
I did have a 5 gallon once but never kept it for long, the smaller the tank the trickier it is to keep the parameters stable, your 65g must have been amazing! I wish I could have had such a big marine tank but due to the expense the biggest I could get was a 23g
 it was great though and I do miss it but just don't have the time at the minute or the money come to think of it!  
 

Chad

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I've kept 2.5 gallon, 5.5 gallon, 10, 20, 29, 50, 75, and 210 gallon reef tanks. I don't consider torch to be a difficult coral, it's in the upper beginner range. Most certainly they are temperamental when it comes to flow. 
 
So I agree with the above and would add that they will shrink from too much light as well. In a small tank they may need to be moved to where they get a little less light. Not shade of course, but less. For a tank like you have soft corals are generally a better bet. 
 
As for a skimmer, it's not really required in such a small tank but if you really wanted one they do make airstone driven skimmers that would work on that size. 
 

Adrinal

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Need more info on your set up.
 
I have yet to see a prepackaged set up that has enough flow and enough PAR in the lights, for long term coral health.
 
If your stuff is doing fine in your 65 you can do frequent large % water changes from there.  Then you will have knocked out the chemistry portion of the puzzle.
 
If you have quality live rock, then dump the bio-rings as they compete with the live rock.   I don't use carbon.  Seachem makes phosguard if you feel you want to deliver something in a bag.  Typically I go nothing in back chambers though.  Sponge is good, but rinse it often with tap water to kill the bacteria (again, to not compete with your live rock).
 
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