what are some good prodcts that have treated ich for you that are SAFE FOR INVERTS
IS THIS ICH??
- Thread starter Sgooosh
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what are some good prodcts that have treated ich for you that are SAFE FOR INVERTS
I can't see any sign of ich in that very short video...
Usually you can get rid of ich by just increasing tank temperature to 86 degrees for two weeks. And maybe do gravel vac every few days as well.
Usually you can get rid of ich by just increasing tank temperature to 86 degrees for two weeks. And maybe do gravel vac every few days as well.
OP
OP
if you play the video at the slowest speed possible and the highest quality you can see some dots
should i use ich x? my cories are very sensitive to temperature changes
Ich appreciates extra time to feed on fish, so while I see nothing in that video, if you think you see it, act. The heat treatment works on most strains of the parasite (not all) , but would kill some of the fish I have here. I use any product with malachite green. Corys have always tolerated it well, but I don't keep shrimp to say.
My view is heat is harder on the fish than a quickly administered dose of medication, but that point is debated in the hobby. What isn't questioned is the need to act as soon as you see the parasite.
My view is heat is harder on the fish than a quickly administered dose of medication, but that point is debated in the hobby. What isn't questioned is the need to act as soon as you see the parasite.
OP
OP
I just noticed 2 fsih ill get ich x as fast as i can.
I definitely see a little white grain on the fish’s tail fin. I have always had more success with heat treatment than medication, though it depends on the fish. My cories did really well with heat, I had pygmies and tail spot pygmies. It looks like you’ve caught it before it’s had time to progress much.
You need to hold your phone horizontally when taking video so the picture fills the entire screen. Then you need to make the clip about 1 minute long or provide clear pictures.
Malachite Green is harmful to all living things and heat is a safer alternative. The only time you don't use heat is if the fish are in cold water (less than 18C). But all tropical fish can take 30C for a couple of weeks, as can snails and shrimp. If you have a marine tank with corals in, they won't take 30C temperature but freshwater isn't an issue.
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Before you add any chemicals to an aquarium, work out the volume of water in the tank and do the following.
To work out the volume of water in the aquarium.
measure length x width x height in cm.
divide by 1000.
= volume in litres.
When you measure the height, measure from the top of the substrate to the top of the water level.
If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove these before measuring the height of the water level so you get a more accurate water volume.
You can use a permanent marker to draw a line on the tank at the water level and put down how many litres are in the tank at that level.
There is a calculator/ converter in the "FishForum.net Calculator" under "Useful Links" at the bottom of this page that will let you convert litres to gallons if you need it.
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You should also:
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. The water change and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Remove carbon from the filter before treating with chemicals or it will adsorb the medication and stop it working. You do not need to remove the carbon if you use salt or heat.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Malachite Green is harmful to all living things and heat is a safer alternative. The only time you don't use heat is if the fish are in cold water (less than 18C). But all tropical fish can take 30C for a couple of weeks, as can snails and shrimp. If you have a marine tank with corals in, they won't take 30C temperature but freshwater isn't an issue.
--------------------
Before you add any chemicals to an aquarium, work out the volume of water in the tank and do the following.
To work out the volume of water in the aquarium.
measure length x width x height in cm.
divide by 1000.
= volume in litres.
When you measure the height, measure from the top of the substrate to the top of the water level.
If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove these before measuring the height of the water level so you get a more accurate water volume.
You can use a permanent marker to draw a line on the tank at the water level and put down how many litres are in the tank at that level.
There is a calculator/ converter in the "FishForum.net Calculator" under "Useful Links" at the bottom of this page that will let you convert litres to gallons if you need it.
-----------
You should also:
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. The water change and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Remove carbon from the filter before treating with chemicals or it will adsorb the medication and stop it working. You do not need to remove the carbon if you use salt or heat.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
OP
OP
thanks that is very very helpful.
does anyone have experience with success with Ich-Attack? That's my second choice if there's no ich-x
ill get a better video tomorrow
Please, just raise the temperature of your tank and do nothing else. 86F is high enough for two weeks.
What are the ingredients in the Ich Attack?
Malachite Green or copper will treat external protozoan parasites like white spot, velvet, costia, chilodonella & trichodina.
However, salt will treat costia, chilodonella and trichodina. And heat (30C/ 86F) will treat white spot and velvet. These are much safer options than Malachite Green.
Copper is safer than Malachite Green but kills invertebrates like snails and shrimp.
Malachite Green or copper will treat external protozoan parasites like white spot, velvet, costia, chilodonella & trichodina.
However, salt will treat costia, chilodonella and trichodina. And heat (30C/ 86F) will treat white spot and velvet. These are much safer options than Malachite Green.
Copper is safer than Malachite Green but kills invertebrates like snails and shrimp.
DoubleDutch
Fish Gatherer
Did you introduce something new in the tank?
It's all in the ingredients. Brand names don't matter. Every country/company has its own.
I've seen heat resistant Ich destroy entire tanks.
As well, when fish are subjected to high temperatures, evidence shows a tendency towards digestive issues. Often their digestive enzymes are heat sensitive. So it's choose your poison - the goal is to kill a living animal (Ich) and there is no way to do that without harming the animals you want to survive. Leave the Ich and the fish die. Use Malachite green early and the Ich dies in its first cycle. Use heat or the dreaded chemical salt, and the Ich dies after a few cycles of feeding on its victim. There is no ideal choice. All our approaches have side effects.
In my teens and a bit beyond, I only used heat for this disease of newly bought fish. I lost a lot of fish to it. Then, once I started using mutagenic dyes, I didn't lose fish and the fish were able to breed again later. That's a key indicator to me.
I've seen heat resistant Ich destroy entire tanks.
As well, when fish are subjected to high temperatures, evidence shows a tendency towards digestive issues. Often their digestive enzymes are heat sensitive. So it's choose your poison - the goal is to kill a living animal (Ich) and there is no way to do that without harming the animals you want to survive. Leave the Ich and the fish die. Use Malachite green early and the Ich dies in its first cycle. Use heat or the dreaded chemical salt, and the Ich dies after a few cycles of feeding on its victim. There is no ideal choice. All our approaches have side effects.
In my teens and a bit beyond, I only used heat for this disease of newly bought fish. I lost a lot of fish to it. Then, once I started using mutagenic dyes, I didn't lose fish and the fish were able to breed again later. That's a key indicator to me.
D
Deleted member 149562
Guest
Ich Attack® | Kordon
www.kordon.com
I hate it when a company doesn't list every single ingredient and its percentage for a product like this. Stating 5% active ingredients consisting of 5 natural organic herbals based on their patented napthoquinones is not helpful when you are experiencing side effects or other issues when using it.
Stop hiding behind the ingredients list...if it works and has no known side effects then the list of what is in the bottle should be displayed in full. It is only hidden when it is a Friday night concoction that looks good on the bottle/box label. People need to know exactly what is in that bottle of potion and be able to make educated choices about using it.
OP
OP
A guppy. He had it
FriendlyGeek
Fish Fanatic
We have used a product called Esha Exit to treat white spot (Ich) and I can confirm that it worked, although we did have to do two treatments. Also, our shrimp and snails were completely unharmed by it.
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