All my Royal Acaras have spots like this. None of the other fish do. I'm guessing it's ich. Anyone disagree?
It often looks worse before getting better but that usually means you've accelerated the life cycle by raising the temp which is good. The meds will get a crack at killing off the buggers when they become free-swimming.Yeah it bothered me that they seem to be spreading not dying, but dose 2 tonight. I've had similar experience w getting rid of it. It usually doesn't take more than 2, but we'll see
Hatchets and dwarf gouramis, which both are fish that are easily chilled as warmer water residents. If ich is around and the fish gets stressed, look out. When I was a kid, winter fish purchases traveled inside a warm, zipped up winter coat, close to your heart.FWIW, the old literature repeatedly stated that hatchets were ich-prone.
Absolutely. One reason why I always wince when some folks advocate that bettas can be kept at room temps. They can, especially by an advanced aquarist--though I never have-- but it is IMO bad counsel to share with newbies (as many betta-keepers are) who are likely to make other missteps which will stress the fish and which will be aggravated by a betta's suppressed immune system and appetite if kept at 72F rather than 80F.Hatchets and dwarf gouramis, which both are fish that are easily chilled as warmer water residents. If ich is around and the fish gets stressed, look out. When I was a kid, winter fish purchases traveled inside a warm, zipped up winter coat, close to your heart.
Not needing a heater for Betta splendens is a piece of advice I've given too many times - without thinking of that absolute newcomer angle. That is good and appreciated perspective.Absolutely. One reason why I always wince when some folks advocate that bettas can be kept at room temps. They can, especially by an advanced aquarist--though I never have-- but it is IMO bad counsel to share with newbies (as many betta-keepers are) who are likely to make other missteps which will stress the fish and which will be aggravated by a betta's suppressed immune system and appetite if kept at 72F rather than 80F.
It has a direct life cycle, which is temperature dependent such that the warmer the water temperature the faster the life cycle completes. The life cycle involves 4 diff erent stages: (1) the trophont, which resides within the surface epithelium of gills, fi ns and other body surfaces; (2) the protomont, a free-swimming stage that exits the fish and settles on the substrate to become the encysted tomocyst stage (3) which in turn repeatedly divides by binary fission to produce tomites which are released to the water column. Tomites differentiate into the infective stage (4) the theront, which needs to find a host within a short window to successfully complete the life cycle by penetrating the epidermis and developing into the trophont stage before it dies (Lom and Dyková, 1992; Matthews, 2005). Theronts can survive for up to 92 h at low water temperatures; their survival being inversely proportional to the ambient water temperature (Wagner, 1960; Aihua and Buchmann, 2001).
Despite these non-drug interventions, fish that are exposed to a certain level of I. multifi liis infection are able to acquire a protective immunity which can last from several months to a year (Hines and Spira, 1974; Burkart et al. 1990; Matthews, 1994). This acquired immunity has stimulated efforts towards the development of a vaccine against I. multifi liis which is in progress (Matthews, 2005; Sommerset et al. 2005;
Dickerson, 2006).
/dspace.stir.ac.uk/bitstream/1893/10147/1/Picon Camacho et al Parasitology Ich chemo review.pdf