How to naturally lower tank pH and soften water

[Tacocat]

Hi there,

Recently I have had a shrimp death in my tank, the shrimp had just come in the day before, and looked perfectly fine, and I was perplexed.
I was at school at the time, and when I got home I immediately took the shrimp out when my brother alerted me to it. It appeared to have a reddish dot in its head area. I tested the water and got 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrates(I have duckweed), but the pH was above 7.6. I would prefer to have it lower due to my fish being soft water fish, and after researching my tap water is moderately hard, so that's likely the reason the pH is so high (if you don't know chemistry gh is directly related to pH). I couldn't figure out any other reasons why the shrimp died, so I assume it's the pH, and it was improperly acclimated. What is the safest way to lower pH and gh?

Also, can somebody with more knowledge in shrimp tell me why it died? it has been 5 days since we bought it, and all the fish are doing just fine. The 3 other shrimp of that species are eating algae and overall not dead. The two massive female cherries that were in the tank for a while are doing fine, and acting normal. The water is heated to 26C and it's a 5 gallon

Edit: here's my journal- https://www.fishforums.net/threads/5-gallon-fluval-spec-v.472852/

 

[OliveFish05]

What is your tank size and stock?

To lower the ph and hardness you can try Indian almond leaves and pear moss in your filter? I’m sure others will have more advice

 

[FF_Member146894]

if you want to lower the pH, KH, and GH to a significant degree, you need to use a mix of tap water and RO water
you can buy small RO water units on amazon for around 60 USD, but some people cannot use one because they are on a water meter, they rent a house, etc

 

[Tacocat]

What is your tank size and stock?

To lower the ph and hardness you can try Indian almond leaves and pear moss in your filter? I’m sure others will have more advice

my stock is a one eyed cardinal tetra, 4 rasboras and a young betta, as well as 3 assassin snails and some shrimp. I will be moving the rasboras and tetra once the betta gets bigger. Yes I know tetras need to have more but right now my parents are unwilling to either buy more(also too small tank and I don't have a second tank) and I can't return it because parents refuse.

 

[OliveFish05]

my stock is a one eyed cardinal tetra, 4 rasboras and a young betta, as well as 3 assassin snails and some shrimp. I will be moving the rasboras and tetra once the betta gets bigger. Yes I know tetras need to have more but right now my parents are unwilling to either buy more(also too small tank and I don't have a second tank) and I can't return it because parents refuse.

Ouch. Rough situation, I totally get it.

Also I meant peat moss, not pear moss earlier lol

 

[Sgooosh]

find some leaves when you take a walk, tell us what they are and maybe some person will tell you if it is safe!
tip: magnolias are common and good

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

...and a young betta

How do you know that the damage wasn't caused by the Betta and is down to your pH or hardness?
NOTE that shrimp can do better in harder water, as they need the minerals for their carapaces.

 

[Byron]

As someone already mentioned, the only safe and effective way to lower GH/KH/pH (and as you said they are certainly connected) is to dilute the source water with some type of pure water, such as rainwater (if otherwise safe), RO or distilled. You have not given us the GH, KH and pH of the source (tap) water but these numbers will tell us what to expect. Dilution is proportional, so mixing half source water and half pure water will lower the GH by half, etc. The pH will tend to follow, generally. Leaves, wood, etc may or may not achieve a lowering of these parameters, it depends upon the initial numbers. The higher the GH/KH the more buffering of the pH.

If you test tap water for pH, let a glass of fresh water sit 24 hours then test; this will give a more reliable pH reading. Not necessary with established tank water.

 

[Colin_T]

Before anyone makes suggestions, you should find out what the GH currently is. It might not need to be lowered.

The shrimp could have moulted just before it was caught and was injured when being caught. It might have been old or just weak.

If you get fish or shrimp and are concerned about them dying, find out what the shop's tank water is in relation to pH, GH and KH. Then try to match your tank to that or better yet, set up a quarantine tank with the same water chemistry as the shop tank. Put the new stock in that for a month and slowly adjust the water to your main display tank.

 

[Tacocat]

Before anyone makes suggestions, you should find out what the GH currently is. It might not need to be lowered.

The shrimp could have moulted just before it was caught and was injured when being caught. It might have been old or just weak.

If you get fish or shrimp and are concerned about them dying, find out what the shop's tank water is in relation to pH, GH and KH. Then try to match your tank to that or better yet, set up a quarantine tank with the same water chemistry as the shop tank. Put the new stock in that for a month and slowly adjust the water to your main display tank.

I'm not sure what it exactly is, but according to the website it's 6-7 grains per gallon, but places in my area vary from 3.7 to 296 mg/l

 

[Byron]

I'm not sure what it exactly is, but according to the website it's 6-7 grains per gallon, but places in my area vary from 3.7 to 296 mg/l

A GHY ofg 7 gpg equates to 120 ppm or 6.7 dH. This is soft water in terms of the hobby. I don't understand the extreme range of 4.7 to 296...where is this data coming from?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

You really do not want to try messing with your parameters, it is not simple easy nor cheap. I know because I keep Altum angels and need to lower all my tap numbers for them. Now I also prefer to have stained water for them so what I am adding often srves a dual purpose:

Catappa leaves aka indian almond leaves.
Alder cones.
Muriatic Acid.
A 75 gpd RO/DI unit.
A continuous digital monitor which reads conductivityTDS, Temp in F or C and pH.
A digital TDS/Temp pen.

I batch my changing water for the tank in a Rubbermaid next to the tank. In order to mauntain stable parameters in the tank requires the new water going in may have to correct changes in the tank parameters between weekly maint. I move the probes from the tank to the changing container. Usually I need to make the changing water softer and more acid as the tank tends to creep up between water changes.

My tap is pH 7.0 and the TDS are 83 ppm with GH at 4-5 and KJ at 2-3. It is the KH which mostl regulates the pH for the most part.

The best advice i can offer is that you go here: http://fins.actwin.com/aquariafaq.html
Click on "Your First Aquarium.
Read the following sections: (iIf you click the links below you will see thre pages but not easily navigate the rest of the site.)

• Practical Freshwater Chemistry
  • The Big Components:
    (pH, Buffering Capacity, General Hardness, Salinity, Nutrients and Trace Elements)
  • Altering Your Tank Water's Chemistry
    (Hardening, Softening, Changing pH)