galvanized tanks for fish???

Magnum Man32 146

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we live on a 100 years in the family, Century Farm… so I go out of my way to keep things looking “traditional”

the house is pretty full of aquariums ( OK, way too full of aquariums ) so I’m beginning to think of seasonal outside tanks, my other thread, is venturing into this area…


I’m thinking about a couple old metal cattle tanks lining the sidewalk into the house , with aquatic plants, and koi or similar fish… the big plastic tanks are probably more fish safe, but the old metal galvanized tanks would look more traditional… would the zink from the galvanize be a problem for either the fish, or the plants??? I could probably coat the inside with fiberglass resin if needed???

thoughts???
 
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Hmm, I live where it's often 90F+ in summer. Some area club folks keep "troughs" in slightly shaded areas with plants & a few fish. I don't know if "standard" horse troughs are zinc liked but seems likely (Tractor Supply).
 
RE: zinc, Google says " industry assessments show these levels are generally far below harmful thresholds for horses, aquatic life, and the environment."
With the usual water changes it probably wouldn't be an issue. Galvanized troughs were all I used when I kept horses with no issues other than having to break holes in the ice when they froze over. I like the way they look over the plastic ones too.
 
I have an old galvanized tank that I kept goldfish in every summer for about twenty years. If the tank killed them, it was a very slow process.
I keep toads in it now.
 
we live on a 100 years in the family, Century Farm… so I go out of my way to keep things looking “traditional”

the house is pretty full of aquariums ( OK, way too full of aquariums ) so I’m beginning to think of seasonal outside tanks, my other thread, is venturing into this area…


I’m thinking about a couple old metal cattle tanks lining the sidewalk into the house , with aquatic plants, and koi or similar fish… the big plastic tanks are probably more fish safe, but the old metal galvanized tanks would look more traditional… would the zink from the galvanize be a problem for either the fish, or the plants??? I could probably coat the inside with fiberglass resin if needed???

thoughts???
The pH of my water is 6.6 - 6.8
If I leave water overnight in my zinc wheel barrow, the pH rises to 7.5 - 8. I don't know what other chemical reactions occur in my slightly acidic water as I can only test for pH. Neither do I know if the reactions have any impact on aquatic life.
 
we already have alkaline hard water, so no idea if that would make it worse or better ???
 
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As I have posted multiple times, I set up summer tanks outside in our screened terrace for about 16 years before I stopped. The temps could be in the 90s regularly. Early on there were fewer tanks and they were in the shade. I never lost fish. However. those tanks eventually all held plecos from the Rio Xinhu where the water could get pretty warm,

Water temperatures in the shallow puddles and isolated pools of the Big Bend (Volta Grande) of the Rio Xingu have reached nearly 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit) during extreme low-flow periods.
In the river proper the temp do not get that hot but they do get into the low 90s. I have had water at that temp when simulating the dry/rainy season to induce spawning.


I just asked Google. "what temperature can water in an old metal galvanized tank get in the summer in MN"

Here is the answer I got back:

Water in an unshaded, outdoor metal galvanized tank in Minnesota can easily reach 75°F to 85°F during a typical summer day, and spike up to 90°F during a severe heatwave or prolonged direct sun.

Factors Affecting Temperature
    • Sun Exposure: Galvanized steel absorbs solar heat quickly, warming the tank walls exposed to direct sunlight.
    • Water Volume: Smaller or half-empty tanks heat up much faster than full, large-capacity tanks because large bodies of water have higher thermal mass.
    • Evaporation: While the sun heats the metal, natural evaporation off the water surface helps cool it down and prevents it from turning into bathwater.

Tips to Keep the Water Cooler
    • Add Shade: Place the tank under a tree, or use an umbrella or shade sail.
    • Keep It Full: Maintain the water level high so the large volume of water stabilizes against sudden heat spikes.
    • Refill Regularly: Adding fresh well or tap water lowers the overall temperature of the tank.

If you are using this tank for a specific purpose like livestock or a backyard pool/pond, let me know so I can share specific safety or cooling strategies.


So I then specified "used to hold live fish" and this is what came back.


Water temperatures between 75°F and 90°F are dangerously hot or fatal for almost all fish native to Minnesota. If you use this tank to hold live fish, maintaining a stable temperature is critical because hot water cannot hold enough dissolved oxygen, leading to rapid suffocation.

Max Safe Temperatures for Minnesota Fish
  • Coldwater Fish (Trout): Require temperatures below 65°F. They will experience severe stress or death at 70°F.
  • Coolwater Fish (Walleye, Yellow Perch, Northern Pike): Prefer temperatures under 75°F. Anything above 80°F is critical.
  • Warmwater Fish (Bass, Bluegill, Crappie, Catfish): Can survive up to 80°F to 85°F, but 90°F is their absolute upper limit.

Why Galvanized Metal is Toxic to Fish
Beyond the heat, you must address the chemical risk: galvanized steel leaks toxic zinc into water. As the water gets warmer and more acidic (from fish waste or rain), the zinc dissolves faster, poisoning the fish.

Essential Strategies to Save Your Fish
  • Add a Safe Liner: Coat the inside with a fish-safe pond shield epoxy or use a heavy-duty plastic drop-in liner to stop zinc leaching.
  • Install Heavy Shade: Block 100% of direct afternoon sun using shade sails, a canopy, or solid structures.
  • Run a Powerful Aerator: Hot water loses oxygen rapidly; a heavy-duty air pump with air stones is mandatory to keep fish breathing.
  • Insulate the Metal: Wrap the outside of the steel tank in reflective insulation or bury the lower half of the tank in the ground to stabilize temperatures.
  • Frequent Water Changes: Trickle fresh, cool well water into the tank while draining warm water out to maintain a safe environment.

Are you keeping wild game fish caught from a lake, or are you looking to raise goldfish/koi in the tank? Knowing the exact fish species helps me give you precise temperature and care advice.


So, I then specified koi and got this back:


For koi, an uninsulated galvanized steel tank in a Minnesota summer is a high-risk environment. While koi are hardy warmwater fish, they thrive best in temperatures between 65°F and 75°F and will experience severe stress when the water climbs above 85°F.
Furthermore, koi require pristine water quality, making the zinc from the galvanized steel highly dangerous to their health.

Oxygen and Heat Management for Koi
  • Max Temperature Limit: Koi can survive temporary spikes up to 85°F, but their metabolism skyrockets at this temperature. They will eat more, produce significantly more toxic ammonia waste, and require vastly more oxygen.
  • The Oxygen Crash: As the metal tank heats the water, the water loses its ability to hold oxygen. Because koi are large, active fish, they will quickly suffocate without aggressive, continuous aeration from a dedicated air pump and air stones.

Specific Actions for a Koi Tank
  • Seal the Metal Immediately: You must apply a fish-safe epoxy liner (such as Pond Shield) to the interior. Without it, the combination of warm water and koi waste will accelerate zinc leaching, causing fatal heavy metal poisoning.
  • Create a Biological Filter: Koi produce massive amounts of waste. You need a robust filtration system to clear ammonia and nitrites, which become exponentially more toxic to koi as water temperatures rise. [1, 2, 3, 4]
  • Stop Feeding During Heatwaves: If the tank water hits 80°F or higher, stop feeding your koi entirely. Digestion requires heavy oxygen usage, and their digestive systems struggle to function properly in extreme heat.
  • Prepare for MN Winters: Because this is a metal tank above ground, it will freeze solid in a Minnesota winter, which will kill the koi. You must have an indoor overwintering plan (like a basement stock tank) or move them to a deep, inground pond before the first hard freeze.
 

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