First 55 gal setup thoughts?

Colin_T

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You need a picture on the back to make the fish feel secure.

Rainbowfish need plant matter in their diet. Duckweed is a good plant to grow. You can also feed them vege flake and goldfish food that has more plant matter.
 
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mmarx339

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You need a picture on the back to make the fish feel secure.

Rainbowfish need plant matter in their diet. Duckweed is a good plant to grow. You can also feed them vege flake and goldfish food that has more plant matter.
I feed live black worms one day and next i feed fluval tropical flakes and color enhancing formula switching back and forth but i also feed spirulina formula fluval flakes and a disc of omega one veggie rounds with the alternation of tropical and color enhancing flakes
 
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mmarx339

mmarx339

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I feed live black worms one day and next i feed fluval tropical flakes and color enhancing formula switching back and forth but i also feed spirulina formula fluval flakes and a disc of omega one veggie rounds with the alternation of tropical and color enhancing flakes
I have a background coming just hasnt arrived yet
 
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mmarx339

mmarx339

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Stock: 6 turquoise rainbow, 5 Boesemani Rainbow, 4 checkered Rainbow ( waiting to complete school dont attack me lol), 6 red eye tetra, 5 Siamese algae eaters, 2 female betta (was sorority But this is whats left), male female pair blue gularis killifish. Everything gets along fine just saying.
 

Colin_T

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I wouldn't feed blackworms or bloodworms to rainbowfish every day. Rainbowfish are sensitive to bad/ contaminated foods and suffer from internal infections. Blackworms and bloodworms aren't always collected from the cleanest sources and can cause problems to the rainbowfish.

Rainbows need plant matter every day. If you feed 2 times a day, then make one meal vege/ plant based and the second meal can be whatever.

You don't need colour enhancing food for rainbowfish. They look drab for the first 6 months and then start to colour up. But they don't show full colour until they are 12 months old, and the best colour is shown by mature adults when breeding.

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The Blue Gularis killifish should be in their own tank so they can compete for food. They might be fine now but when the rainbows are full grown, the killis won't get any food. Keeping the killis in their own tank will give them a chance to breed and you will be able to get more of them. This won't happen in their current tank.

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I would remove most of the rocks from the middle so the rainbows have room to move when mature. Adult rainbowfish get to about 4 inches long and are quite active swimmers. When they are breeding/ displaying, they can dash about the tank and they might swim into the rocks and injure themselves.

The best tank for rainbowfish has plants along the back and sides and lots of open swimming space in the middle.

Having a hang on back (HOB) style filter on the side of the tank rather than the back, would create a current in the tank for the rainbows to swim in. If you don't want to do that, put a power head or internal power filter in the tank on the side, and have it on a timer so it comes on for a few hours each day. The fish can swim into the current and get some exercise, and rest when the filter isn't on.

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The red-eye tetras, Bettas and killifish all come from soft acid water (GH below 150ppm and pH below 7.0), whereas the rainbowfish do better in hard alkaline water (GH above 250ppm and pH above 7.0).
 

NCaquatics

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your tank looks great! I love it.

If you haven't ordered the background yet, you could simply use black poster board, or a black garbage bag, but its up to your own preference there. I think a fake poster background would take away from the beautiful set up you got going on, but its your tank so your decision what you like best :)
 
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mmarx339

mmarx339

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I wouldn't feed blackworms or bloodworms to rainbowfish every day. Rainbowfish are sensitive to bad/ contaminated foods and suffer from internal infections. Blackworms and bloodworms aren't always collected from the cleanest sources and can cause problems to the rainbowfish.

Rainbows need plant matter every day. If you feed 2 times a day, then make one meal vege/ plant based and the second meal can be whatever.

You don't need colour enhancing food for rainbowfish. They look drab for the first 6 months and then start to colour up. But they don't show full colour until they are 12 months old, and the best colour is shown by mature adults when breeding.

-----------------
The Blue Gularis killifish should be in their own tank so they can compete for food. They might be fine now but when the rainbows are full grown, the killis won't get any food. Keeping the killis in their own tank will give them a chance to breed and you will be able to get more of them. This won't happen in their current tank.

-----------------
I would remove most of the rocks from the middle so the rainbows have room to move when mature. Adult rainbowfish get to about 4 inches long and are quite active swimmers. When they are breeding/ displaying, they can dash about the tank and they might swim into the rocks and injure themselves.

The best tank for rainbowfish has plants along the back and sides and lots of open swimming space in the middle.

Having a hang on back (HOB) style filter on the side of the tank rather than the back, would create a current in the tank for the rainbows to swim in. If you don't want to do that, put a power head or internal power filter in the tank on the side, and have it on a timer so it comes on for a few hours each day. The fish can swim into the current and get some exercise, and rest when the filter isn't on.

-----------------
The red-eye tetras, Bettas and killifish all come from soft acid water (GH below 150ppm and pH below 7.0), whereas the rainbowfish do better in hard alkaline water (GH above 250ppm and pH above 7.0).
I alternate back and forth 1 day is the blackworks, i have a very good person for them, then next day is flakes and veg discs. Ill take the advice on the color flakes i was thinking of removing that anyway but i think im going to do a light tropical flake in am and veg flake in pm feed (usually i did once a day). My fluval canister 407 has intake on one end and output on opisite end facing the intake (creating current at the top for exercise and what not then the plants and rocks break that up a little bit to make the left side calmer but thw left side also has the fluval 70 hob filter for surface movement on the left side, the waterfall is a air decor with a 40 gal sponge filter behind it for extra filtration on the right side of the tank and heavily planted bottom with plenty of cover for hiding and sleeping when not active. Everything gets along fine and my killifish prefer to eat from the substrate so i pipet them worms on worm day with my right hand while feeding fast rainbow eaters on opposite side at the top. I dont have anything to raise a fry and am not worried about breeding right now. I forget I forgot to reply to anything if i did let me know
 

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