Clowns Still Flick After Med

[Jjsmith46]

I cant stop my clowns flicking and rubbing,what should i do,ive treated with sterazin protazin esha exit and 2000,with little or no affect,i have about 11 clowns whith only the smallest who are not affected,i dont want to take them to lfs as they will end up in their tiny tanks and given every med availble,then split up and sold and maybe end up in a biorb,

 

[Jjsmith46]

!

 

[the biffster]

are you still feeding blood worm

 

[Jjsmith46]

are you still feeding blood worm

No not for weeks

 

[the biffster]

well thats that one out

 

[Jjsmith46]

What was u thinking mate,need any ideas gona try sterazin again to combat int worms as they get fat bellys when i feed them,and im sure i dont overfeed but clowns can be posesive with the food-this 1 clown grabs the whole pellet and hogs it,until onother clown steals it lol

 

[the biffster]

once used to have some cichlids that used to flick
after feeding blood worm it was to do with the blood worm
causing irritation in it gills but like you said
you have stopped feeding it whats your tap water stats like

 

[Big_eyes]

Have you tried leaving things alone for a couple of weeks ie. not medicated and carried on as normal with water changes?

Meds can cause flicking, but then so can bad water.

What are your stats?

Is this the 180ltr tank? What filter does it have?

 

[Jjsmith46]

Yeah its 180 with internal with 2 biomax 6 sponge also a u2 and powerhead atatchment with bio rings,ph 8 amm o ntrite o ntrate 10 temp 28 degree,soft lighting loads of hide holes and wood,i did leave alone a few weeks back for a week or so,i know clowns are sensitve to meds and salts,would worms make them flick;could my ph of 8.0 be doin it? One clown seems to be flicking on his gills where as others seem to on the side of belly. I know the tank is small but they have plenty room for there current size- i will be upgrading tank within a year.if my clowns was that bad would they not hide and not eat,most of them have bright black stripes would they not be gray if the wasent happy,plus they are very active -swiming in powerheads always destriying my plants and some even lay on their sides out in the light asleep- but this is normal for them so.

 

[Jjsmith46]

Man this forum sucks big time,and so does some idiots who use it f£&@## you very much.

 

[onebto]

Man this forum sucks big time,and so does some idiots who use it f£&@## you very much.

What is your water change regime? considering all the meds that you have used I would be tempted to do a course of really big water changes over a couple of weeks with out meds just dechlorinate and maybe use some carbon to help clean the water of the meds, aiming to at least change the entire volume of your tank 2 or 3 times over a week or two, see how things go after that you just cant beat really nice clean water I know your water stats are good but one thing I know for definite is that the water changes cannot do any bad.

I do not think it is your PH yes 8.0 is a bit high for Clown loach but I have a PH of knocking on the door of 8.0 and my 9 Clown loach appear to have no problem with it.

Although again I dont think there diet is the problem I would recommend lots of different foods the occasional muscle or prawn, cucumber, there is a large range of Hikari food that I use like crab cuisine, Chilid gold, sinking wafers, algae wafers. food sticks. micro wafers and micro pellets to name a few I do use frozen blood worm once or twice a week.

To be honest I have not got a clue what the dark spots are on your clowns there habbits and actions really do sound like ich/white spot but as I understand it those spots in the stages of the infection are white? Have you done google searches for the symptoms?

Please be patient with responses to your posts as sometimes it takes a day or two for people to get back on forum from time to time due to life's constraints and challenges.

I hope your Clowns get better soon regards onebto.

 

[Defiance]

Hiya's,

All's i can suggest is this

Use a product like Waterlife Medizin P (lots of doses in the 500ml bottle you see)

Dose daily at 50% dosage strength, do a 50% water change daily just before you dose for that day, so day 1 = 50% water out/new dechlo water in/50% meds dose, day 2 = 50% water out/new dechlo water in/50% meds dose (seems a chore but even my friends sticking to it, and when he can't luckily i can do the dosing etc)

Ohh and use dechlorinator also, in bulk as a pond dechlo there's no need not to when it works out like 17p to treat 150 uk gallons

Slowly raise temperature to 30c (if any signs of fish distress lower slowly)

Do this for two whole weeks

May seem a pain, i'm helping a friend out and we were advised to do the above, he's on day 5 of treating and boy the fish seem loads better in just having the 5 days of meds and he's not lost a fish thus far

Daily dosing many say it's not needed, i concur when i had ich the dosage wasn't daily and my ich went away, but from reading some posts it seems as a last resort daily dosing can and in some cases has to be tried

Tony

 

[Jjsmith46]

Its not whitespot,i think its internal worms,maybe flukes as one seems to flick on his gill often,should i daily dose with the sterazin that ive got as it does worms and flukes

 

[Big_eyes]

Have you tried not using the plant feed for a good 3-4 weeks to see if that's causing it?

Are you telling the truth with your water stats?
You started out with a fluval u3 on this tank, why did you change to a u2?

 

[Jjsmith46]

I bad u2 u3 they are both rubbish filters i actully have a u2 in my 60 ltr and the u3 in my 180,i am not using plant fert for about the last two month,im very close to returning the clowns to lfs if i c no inprovement,the little guys are too fussy and far too sensitive,will c how the sterazin goes,i also changed my water source which i think has made them a little happier.O and im not blagging my stats,why would i blagg?!!!