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The worst CRI bulbs are the actinics for sw.The color rendering index identifies the degree of color shift objects undergo when illuminated by a particular light source. In simpler terms, the CRI expresses the degree to which a light source renders the true color impression. The CRI is an index and ranges from 0 to 100. A light source having a CRI of 100 means objects illuminated by it look like they're supposed to; that is their natural color is not distorted. A light source having a very low CRI would tend to make objects appear to be a different shade or even color that they really are. An example of light with a high CRI is, obviously, sunlight.
ian said:Par is regularly used now and should be used more that the wpg rule...
Specialist forums are now using par on LEDs/bulbs, as a guide, it won't be long til it becomes the norm to use it. As chad states, it's been used for a while in the marine side of things.eaglesaquarium said:Par is regularly used now and should be used more that the wpg rule...
While I agree with the thought process behind that, is it easily calculable by the average aquarist, or is it so complicated that only the true "aquarist gardening" enthusiasts would be able to determine it? I saw something about it a few years ago, but honestly, the cost of the meter to determine it for a hobby tank put it out of my mind. I could see professionals needing it, but for the home hobbyist, is it easily attainable?
Yes, that's what I meant, many plant enthusiasts are testing certain LEDs and bulbs in correlation to depth of tank. Then using this as a guide, as the wpg was originally done on t12's. It just isn't viable to use the wpg rule at all.tcamos said:It is not included in our acronyms. Thanks for the suggestion!
you cannot determine PAR without a PAR meter but many manufacturers provide that information for their lights.
For example here are the specs on my lights http/aquaillumination.com/sol/performance.html