Plant help questions

I agree with @Byron about the probability of that test being correct. I also agree with you about daily changes on a tank that size being no fun. It also seems highly unlikely that that number of fish in such a large tank could produce that much nitrite in a day.

The one thing that does look different is the pH if I am reading the test correctly. That looks closer to neutral than the very acidic readings suggested by the strips - so your filter is subject to the cycling process after all.

I would skip tomorrow's change. Keep an eye during the day and if all is still well in the evening resist the temptation to do another test. Then test on Saturday morning. However others may disagree ... :dunno:
 
I agree with @Byron about the probability of that test being correct. I also agree with you about daily changes on a tank that size being no fun. It also seems highly unlikely that that number of fish in such a large tank could produce that much nitrite in a day.

The one thing that does look different is the pH if I am reading the test correctly. That looks closer to neutral than the very acidic readings suggested by the strips - so your filter is subject to the cycling process after all.

I would skip tomorrow's change. Keep an eye during the day and if all is still well in the evening resist the temptation to do another test. Then test on Saturday morning. However others may disagree ... :dunno:
Hi, thanks. Yea the stops and test show different PH For some reason. Itā€™s about 6.4. Although the nitrite strip and liquid tests are similar. Iā€™m confident the liquid tests are correct because they are similar to the strips of a different brand. Yea gunna skip the water change and see. No idea where the nitrite is coming from. Not enough ammonia to produce that much surely? If Iā€™m honest Iā€™m expecting a sudden mass die off if the general conclusion is that 5ppm+ is dead fish.
 
Hi, thanks. Yea the stops and test show different PH For some reason. Itā€™s about 6.4. Although the nitrite strip and liquid tests are similar. Iā€™m confident the liquid tests are correct because they are similar to the strips of a different brand. Yea gunna skip the water change and see. No idea where the nitrite is coming from. Not enough ammonia to produce that much surely? If Iā€™m honest Iā€™m expecting a sudden mass die off if the general conclusion is that 5ppm+ is dead fish.
Have you tested the plain tap water to see if it is coming from there?
 
Nitrite is toxic because it breaks down the red blood cells and oxidizes the iron in the haemoglobin into a stable state called methaemoglobin, which has no capacity to carry oxygen. In other words, oxygen cannot be present in the fish's blood, and the blood and gills turn brown rather than red. Some fish have a better capacity to turn methaemoglobin back into haemoglobin, and this is why some fish can withstand nitrite more than other species.

Symptoms of nitrite poisoning are listlessness, anoxia (oxygen starvation) and pigmentation of the liver, spleen and kidney. Externally to the aquarist we would see the listlessness, and very rapid respiration, usually hanging at the surface attempting to gulp oxygen, and then death.
 
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Nitrite is toxic because it breaks down the red blood cells and oxidizes the iron in the hjaemoglobin into a stable state called methaemoglobin, which has no capacity to carry oxygen. In other words, oxygen cannot be present in the fish's bl;ood, and the blood and gills turn brown rather than red. Some fish have a better capacity to turn methaemoglobin back into haemoglobin, and this is why some fish can withstand nitrite more than other species.

Symptoms of nitrite poisoning are listlessness, anoxia (oxygen starvation) and pigmentation of the liver, spleen and kidney. Externally to the aquarist we would see the listlessness, and very rapid respiration, usually hanging at the surface attempting to gulp oxygen, and then death.
Hi, and how long does that generally take to happen? Or will it just happen all of a sudden.
 
Hi, and how long does that generally take to happen? Or will it just happen all of a sudden.

It apparently can depend upon species. But everyone in the hobby recommends eliminating the nitrite immediately you see it, via water changes, adding Nitrospira bacteria, so it remains zero. Salt helps fish in nitrite water, but I almost hate to mention this because some people will start dumping salt ito the tank and this can kill everything if not done properly. And salt will absolutely stress out all freshwater fish because of what it does inside the fish. If you want to go into the detriments, have a read of my article, here:
 
Hi. Thought good to update so anyone else new reading can see the info 7 days on.

The nitrite from what I can gather got as high as 15ppm. I know this because I tested the water. then diluted a sample by half, then diluted the 50% by half again and so on until 0ppm. IT definitely got up to about 18ppm at one point. Used liquid test kits. Tap water is 0 everything. I took the decision to stop water changes and let everything do its job. The fish are all still alive and acting normally for tiger barbs. One smaller one has cut its self off from the crowd and is a little listless (4 days of that also not interested in eating) I doubt it will pull through long term.

On day 7, today. The nitrite is down to 1ppm with no dilution. Nitrate up to 20ppm. Water change this weekend.

Thanks for all the advice. No to just figure out what else i can put in the tank that is colourful.
 
No to just figure out what else i can put in the tank that is colourful.

You want to be absolutely certain everything is normal before new fish, but it is OK to plan ahead. This is a 55g tank, with plants. Are the plants doing OK? And how many fish and what species do you now have?

As a reminder, the GH is 6-7 dGH and the pH is acidic (5-6) from earlier in this thread.
 
You want to be absolutely certain everything is normal before new fish, but it is OK to plan ahead. This is a 55g tank, with plants. Are the plants doing OK? And how many fish and what species do you now have?
Hi, today I looked up the 55 gallon tank as I wasnā€™t aware there was gallon and US liquid gallon difference. But a US Liquid gallon for my tank would be 63.4 for 240 litres
yes no more fish until all is at 0 except nitrate. Just doing the research. Currently11 tiger barbs and a small orange platy. I can see the plants growing daily so I assume all is ok.
 
Hi, today I looked up the 55 gallon tank as I wasnā€™t aware there was gallon and US liquid gallon difference. But a US Liquid gallon for my tank would be 63.4 for 240 litres
yes no more fish until all is at 0 except nitrate. Just doing the research. Currently11 tiger barbs and a small orange platy. I can see the plants growing daily so I assume all is ok.

OK. So we are building around the Tiger Barb. Eleven is OK for this species so they should be well-enough behaved with that group size but the other fish will have to be similarly active. Sedate fish or fish with long fins willnot work. But that still leaves a number of options.

For the substrate, a group of one of the small/medium loaches. Or a group of Corydoras catfish. For the upper levels where the TB hang out, another species or two of barb, or danio. Or there are some more active and robust tetras.
 
OK. So we are building around the Tiger Barb. Eleven is OK for this species so they should be well-enough behaved with that group size but the other fish will have to be similarly active. Sedate fish or fish with long fins willnot work. But that still leaves a number of options.

For the substrate, a group of one of the small/medium loaches. Or a group of Corydoras catfish. For the upper levels where the TB hang out, another species or two of barb, or danio. Or there are some more active and robust tetras.
Hi, yea think Iā€™m going to go for 6 yo-yo loach for the bottom. I have thought about some options. Taking into account the good sizes school of barbs. Thoughts on the below and these would be instead of each other apposed to multiple schools.
Denison barb 6 - to big?
electric blue cichlid 10 - keen on these
Another less aggressive cichlid colourful 10
Gold barb 10

or do you think I could get the 6 yo-yo loaches, 10 electric blue rams and 10 gold barb with my current 11 tiger barbs.
To heavy a stock?
 
By "electric blue cichlid" you are meaning the same as "electric blue rams," correct? If so, you are eliminating most everything else because of temperature. The blue ram (species is Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) in any of the varieties must have warmth, with 80F absolute minimum, but 82-84 or even 86F (28-30C) is preferable. Barbs cannot last at this high a temperature, nor can many others. The Loaches would be at the extreme top end of their range, which is not good permanently.

Cichlids in general...not with fish that have a propensity to fin nip like Tiger Barbs.

Denison Barb...needs a group of 8, and as it reaches 6 inches (15 cm) a 5-6 foot length tank is preferable. Also cooler water (low 70'sF, 24-26 C).
 
By "electric blue cichlid" you are meaning the same as "electric blue rams," correct? If so, you are eliminating most everything else because of temperature. The blue ram (species is Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) in any of the varieties must have warmth, with 80F absolute minimum, but 82-84 or even 86F (28-30C) is preferable. Barbs cannot last at this high a temperature, nor can many others. The Loaches would be at the extreme top end of their range, which is not good permanently.

Cichlids in general...not with fish that have a propensity to fin nip like Tiger Barbs.

Denison Barb...needs a group of 8, and as it reaches 6 inches (15 cm) a 5-6 foot length tank is preferable. Also cooler water (low 70'sF, 24-26 C).
Ok. So what about stocking levels. Could I get away with the 11 tigers, 10 gold barb, 10 albino tiger barb and the 6 yo-yos? Or is that too heavily stocked?
 
Your tank parameters and your tank in general is the most puzzling tank I have ever come across... :dunno:
 

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