Plant help questions

Ben2522

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Hi, I am having trouble with my plants. They donā€™t seem to be growing and dying off. Plants have been in tank 4 weeks. not sure what they all are, however the Java moss seems to be very thin and brown in areas, the plants on the right just look fragile and not great colour. The one on the left was added last week. 55 gallon. Temp 25 degrees c, PH 5.5. 6 tiger barbs, Betts canister filter 2000. 1 platy. There seems to be an aminos spike happening although with my ph itā€™s ammonium and pretty safe at the 0.2 level. is it because the fish in the tank arenā€™t adequately feeding the plants? I put a fertiliser in 7 days ago at the correct dose and not effect really. Any thoughts? Got 10 more tiger bars arriving next week so could do with the plants not being dead as itā€™s my main water quality maintainer. Surely if the ammonium is up then the plants should be flourishing? Unfortunately I donā€™t know what Iā€™m looking at for plants...
thanks
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The plants seem to have a good color. How many hours a day do you leave the light on for? What kind of light do you have?

Please include a list of the plants that are in the tank.
 
The plants seem to have a good color. How many hours a day do you leave the light on for? What kind of light do you have?

Please include a list of the plants that are in the tank.
Hi, I have an LED full spectrum light on 10 hours a day. The only one I know the name of is the java moss and that doesnā€™t seem to be growing but instead going brown and thin. Not sure how fast plants should grow? I know nothing about them lol.
 
Hi, I have an LED full spectrum light on 10 hours a day. The only one I know the name of is the java moss and that doesnā€™t seem to be growing but instead going brown and thin. Not sure how fast plants should grow? I know nothing about them lol.

I suggest the following...
  • Leave your light on for 12 hours a day. (If you can manage 14 hours (which is what I do) in a day, do it. You might have an algae problem though)
  • Do a large water change.
  • Cut back on feeding for a while. Sometimes food will land on the plants and then rot, causes the plants leaves to appear brown
When did you get these plants and where?
 
I suggest the following...
  • Leave your light on for 12 hours a day. (If you can manage 14 hours (which is what I do) in a day, do it. You might have an algae problem though)
  • Do a large water change.
  • Cut back on feeding for a while. Sometimes food will land on the plants and then rot, causes the plants leaves to appear brown
When did you get these plants and where?
Hi, ok will try that. Did a water change yesterday. I use granules and the tigerbarbs just eat it all in 30 seconds. The plants been in about 4 weeks.
Wht are your thoughts on the ammonium spike? I say ammonium because my PH is about 5.5z Water change yesterday. Shouldnā€™t the plants be covering the ammonium? This is why I thought theyā€™d werenā€™t healthy?
 
Hi, ok will try that. Did a water change yesterday. I use granules and the tigerbarbs just eat it all in 30 seconds. The plants been in about 4 weeks.
Wht are your thoughts on the ammonium spike? I say ammonium because my PH is about 5.5z Water change yesterday. Shouldnā€™t the plants be covering the ammonium? This is why I thought theyā€™d werenā€™t healthy?
Yes, live plants should be sucking up the Ammonia. They probably are, but because it is such a big tank and you have such little plants, they canā€™t keep up. I suggest getting some Anacharis from your LFS, or just order it online. This plant is super easy to grow, reduces algae, and sucks up Ammonia faster than most.
 
Yes, live plants should be sucking up the Ammonia. They probably are, but because it is such a big tank and you have such little plants, they canā€™t keep up. I suggest getting some Anacharis from your LFS, or just order it online. This plant is super easy to grow, reduces algae, and sucks up Ammonia faster than most.
Itā€™s a 55gallon tank with 6 tiger barbs. Shouldnā€™t they be keeping up with that?
 
I do not see anything wrong with the Wisteria (Hygrophyla difformis) which is the stem plant along the back wall of the tank in the photo.

As for the moss, it has algae issues and that means too much light. Wisteria is a stem plant which means they grow faster (once they are settled) and thus need brighter light, but moss (and the Java Fern behind it) are slow growing so they do not need so much light intensity. Floating plants are you easiest fix for this.

But the light is likely on too long. Let us assume the intensity is OK, and the spectrum (any idea of the Kelvin?). I would reduce it down to 8 hours each 24-hour period. Use a timer so it is consistent.

I wouldnot worry about the ammonia/ammonium at 0.2 level. As you note, it is ammonium, and if your pH remains wheree it is or lower, ammonium is not going to cause problems. If you have chloramine added to your city water this likely explains the ammonium/ammonia.
 
I do not see anything wrong with the Wisteria (Hygrophyla difformis) which is the stem plant along the back wall of the tank in the photo.

As for the moss, it has algae issues and that means too much light. Wisteria is a stem plant which means they grow faster (once they are settled) and thus need brighter light, but moss (and the Java Fern behind it) are slow growing so they do not need so much light intensity. Floating plants are you easiest fix for this.

But the light is likely on too long. Let us assume the intensity is OK, and the spectrum (any idea of the Kelvin?). I would reduce it down to 8 hours each 24-hour period. Use a timer so it is consistent.

I wouldnot worry about the ammonia/ammonium at 0.2 level. As you note, it is ammonium, and if your pH remains wheree it is or lower, ammonium is not going to cause problems. If you have chloramine added to your city water this likely explains the ammonium/ammonia.
Hi. Thanks for the reply. So the Back middle and right are Wisteria and should be ok. The java fern I should probably get Rid? Java fern back left? Worth keeping?

How long before the Wisteria establish? Any suggestions on plants that soak up the most ammonium?

Thanks
Ben
 
Hi. Thanks for the reply. So the Back middle and right are Wisteria and should be ok. The java fern I should probably get Rid? Java fern back left? Worth keeping?

How long before the Wisteria establish? Any suggestions on plants that soak up the most ammonium?

Thanks
Ben

I would leave the Java Fern, it is not looking bothered. The Java Moss on the wood is a nice addition to an aquarium and I would leave this; I have found both these plants do not like changes, but if left alone they may suddenly (after a few weeks) begin to settle in and turn out quite nice. Moss is especially beneficial for fish, they love browsing through it for microscopic food critters.

The main thing is to reduce the light period. This is going to have issues for the Wisteria too if you are not careful. Once you have the intensity and spectrum (and we can assume these to be fine), you can have a little as six hours. The plants will photosynthesize during the "daylight" period, and then when light is off go into their rest. The problem with 10 hours, somewhat depending upon the light intensity, is that nutrients may become exhausted, and then you will have real algae problems.

Plants grow by photosynthesis, and if the light is of sufficient intensity and spectrum, and the required 17 nutrients are available, photosynthesis will be "full out," so to speak. The plants naturally make use of this ideal setting to grow. But as soon as one factor becomes exhausted, photosynthesis will slow, and that is when algae can take advantage. Keeping the balance of light/nutrients is key.

Carbon (as CO2) is likely the nutrient that will first become insufficient. CO2 is produced all the time from respiration of fish, plants and some species of bacteria, but it s primary source is from the breakdown of organics in the substrate. During darkness the CO2 increases, and then during the "day" when the tank lighting is one the plants take upo the CO2 (and other nutrients). But there is a limit to the amount of CO2, and you do not want to go beyond that limit.

My tank lights are now on for seven hours every 24-hour period, and since doing this schedule I have not had a single algae problem, something that used to be a nuisance in this or that tank from time to time.

On the ammonia question...aquatic plants prefer ammonia/ammonium as their source of nitrogen, and they take up quite a lot of it. Faster growing plants use more, obviously. Wisteria is a stem plant that is fast growing once settled. Floating plants are even better--often termed "ammonia sinks"--because being at the surface they have the aerial advantage which is the assimilation of CO2 from the air, and for aquatic plants this is four times faster than having to assimilate it submersed.
 
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I would leave the Java Fern, it is not looking bothered. The Java Moss on the wood is a nice addition to an aquarium and I would leave this; I have found both these plants do not like changes, but if left alone they may suddenly (after a few weeks) begin to settle in and turn out quite nice. Moss is especially beneficial for fish, they love browsing through it for microscopic food critters.

The amin thing is to reduce the light period. This is going to have issues for the Wisteria too if you are not careful. Once you have the intensity and spectrum (and we can assume these to be fine), you can have a little as six hours. The plants will photosynthesize during the "daylight" period, and then when light is off go into their rest. The problem with 10 hours, somewhat depending upon the light intensity, is that nutrients may become exhausted, and then you will have real algae problems.

Plants grow by photosynthesis, and if the light is of sufficient intensity and spectrum, and the required 17 nutrients are available, photosynthesis will be "full out," so to speak. The plants naturally make use of this ideal setting to grow. But as soon as one factor becomes exhausted, photosynthesis will slow, and that is when algae can take advantage. Keeping the balance of light/nutrients is key.

Carbon (as CO2) is likely the nutrient that will first become insufficient. CO2 is produced all the time from respiration of fish, plants and some species of bacteria, but it s primary source is from the breakdown of organics in the substrate. During darkness the CO2 increases, and then during the "day" when the tank lighting is one the plants take upo the CO2 (and other nutrients). But there is a limit to the amount of CO2, and you do not want to go beyond that limit.

My tank lights are now on for seven hours every 24-hour period, and since doing this schedule I have not had a single algae problem, something that used to be a nuisance in this or that tank from time to time.

On the ammonia question...aquatic plants prefer ammonia/ammonium as their source of nitrogen, and they take up quite a lot of it. Faster growing plants use more, obviously. Wisteria is a stem plant that is fast growing once settled. Floating plants are even better--often termed "ammonia sinks"--because being at the surface they have the aerial advantage which is the assimilation of CO2 from the air, and for aquatic plants this is four times faster than having to assimilate it submersed.
Thanks for your answer. Very helpful
 
I donā€™t understand why your fave ferns leaves are so thin. Mine are at least 2 inches in the widest parts.

A 55g tank with only 3 plants doesnā€™t really cut it in my book. I would suggest to get more plants and follow the steps I mentioned above. :)
 
I donā€™t understand why your fave ferns leaves are so thin. Mine are at least 2 inches in the widest parts.

A 55g tank with only 3 plants doesnā€™t really cut it in my book. I would suggest to get more plants and follow the steps I mentioned above. :)
Hi, the java fern was only added 3 days ago. I will defo get more plants and look at your steps.
cheers
 
Hi, the java fern was only added 3 days ago. I will defo get more plants and look at your steps.
cheers
Sounds good to me. If you have any more questions please ask. :)
 

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