Whitish Spots?!?!

Jethro

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i have a male veil tail betta and i have had him for around 4 or 5 months now. up until this week i had him in a 1 gallon aquarium which didnt have a light in it so i couldnt see him so well. earlier this week i put him in a new 10 gallon tank and the next day i added 5 neon tetras. he ate the smallest tetra so i returned the rest to the store. that was about 2 days ago. just a little while ago i noticed that he has whitish spots behind his eyes right before his gills. they are different on both sides but in about the same area. i havent noticed them before, but then again he didnt have a light in his last tank so i couldnt see him so well.

the spots dont seem fuzzy, they just have alot less color than the rest of his body. should i be concerned about this?

any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Hi

Can you get a picture? It may well be that you haven't noticed before due to lighting?

You say they dont look fuzzy, but do they look like grains of salt? If so, it could be white spot, possibly brought in with Neons.
 
DUDE!! that made him ANGRY!!! i have never seen him act so crazy! he flipped out as soon as i got the camera near the glass so i had to kinda sneak up and take them. then he kinda "played dead" on his favorite plant so i left him alone. he seems fine now but the spots are still there.

i snapped a few pictures with my girlfriends camera but now i cant find the cable. plus the screen on her camera is broken so i have no idea if they will be any good. we will find out when she gets home and helps me find the cord. i also cant turn the flash off.

ok so the spots dont really look like grans of salt. they look like whatever it is is either under or right on top of his scales. you can still kinda make the shape of the scales out around the edges of the spot but he is wigging out when i get close enough to look at him so i will try and get a better look later.

if it does end up being white spot what can i do to fix it cheaply? i spent all my money on his new tank!



Hi

Can you get a picture? It may well be that you haven't noticed before due to lighting?

You say they dont look fuzzy, but do they look like grains of salt? If so, it could be white spot, possibly brought in with Neons.
 
What is the temperature of your tank at the moment?

If it is whitespot I'm not sure what treatments you have available (I'm guessing you're in the USA). Someone might be able to advise you of what treatment to get or if you look on the main forum page there is a section about meds available and what they can be used to treat.
 
78 degrees Fahrenheit

yes i am in USA

*edit* i cant change the temp on his tank because my heater doesnt have any settings it is just made to heat the tank to 78



What is the temperature of your tank at the moment?

If it is whitespot I'm not sure what treatments you have available (I'm guessing you're in the USA). Someone might be able to advise you of what treatment to get or if you look on the main forum page there is a section about meds available and what they can be used to treat.
 
That's fine. It's just that in conjunction with treatment the warmer temp can help speed up the cycle of the whitespot, if it does turn out to be that.
 
OK so i was reading about ich (white spot) and it is a parasite with different life stages. currently on my fish it is in its adult stage (mid stage) and is resistant to chemicals, but after a few days it will fall off and form a cyst type thing and will be able to be killed. before it turns into little swimmy guys that are again resistant to chemicals.

i was reading that one of the best ways to treat this is SALT. i will of course not use table salt but there isnt much difference between sea salt and aquarium salt other than i have sea salt and i DONT have aquarium salt so i could possibly treat this with 4-5 tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons of water. (AND ZERO MONEYS SPENT!)

i will of course verify that this is ich before i take any additional measures, but first i would like to know

WILL MY BETTA HAVE A NEGATIVE REACTION TO SOME SALT ADDED TO HIS TANK???
 
OK so i was reading about ich (white spot) and it is a parasite with different life stages. currently on my fish it is in its adult stage (mid stage) and is resistant to chemicals, but after a few days it will fall off and form a cyst type thing and will be able to be killed. before it turns into little swimmy guys that are again resistant to chemicals.

i was reading that one of the best ways to treat this is SALT. i will of course not use table salt but there isnt much difference between sea salt and aquarium salt other than i have sea salt and i DONT have aquarium salt so i could possibly treat this with 4-5 tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons of water. (AND ZERO MONEYS SPENT!)

i will of course verify that this is ich before i take any additional measures, but first i would like to know

WILL MY BETTA HAVE A NEGATIVE REACTION TO SOME SALT ADDED TO HIS TANK???

You can add some salt but that is not going to do the trick. You would have to add a lot of salt it is better to do it as a salt bath then keeping the fish in salt for too long.

I have treated ick a few times I am doing it right now for my 36 Gal tank. I added a new bristle nose pleco and did not see any white spots when I added her. Well now I do. Always quarantine new fish oh well ick is not hard to teat it is just annoying and takes time.

Salt can work as a salt bath. Dipping the fish in the salty water for a minute or so. If they get stressed take them out. I personally am afraid to try that way. So I use meds I hate using them but I know they work.

I use Ich Cure is has Malachite Green a dangerous chemical but it gets the job done. You should bring the temp up 2 degrees 82 or 83 will speed up the life cycle and they will fall off sooner and be able to be killed quickly. It takes about 4-5 days to rid the tank of these annoying little things. I am on my 3rd day of treatment and see it is working. You also want to keep the lights off and take all carbon out of the filter.

There are other meds to use. Also water changes are helpful to remove any of the free swimmers. I have been medicating now for 3 days today before adding another does I did a 25% water change and then added the meds. They don't say you need to do that but I felt it was a good idea. water changes help keep fish healthy.

Here is a site that is great at explaining all about ick. Very good info. It has many different meds and way to treat it.

<a href="http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php" target="_blank">http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php</a>
 
Salt can work as a salt bath. Dipping the fish in the salty water for a minute or so. If they get stressed take them out. I personally am afraid to try that way. So I use meds I hate using them but I know they work.
a salt bath is not likely to help much with ich, see below for why
OK so i was reading about ich (white spot) and it is a parasite with different life stages. currently on my fish it is in its adult stage (mid stage) and is resistant to chemicals, but after a few days it will fall off and form a cyst type thing and will be able to be killed. before it turns into little swimmy guys that are again resistant to chemicals.

i have used salt as a treatment for ich and it worked fine for me, basically the betta is a more advanced lifeform and has internal organs to help regulate salt levels. the ich as a single celled type organism can't deal with the salt at all! but only when in the one stage of its life cycle (although its actually only in the swimming stage it isn't resistant),
It is best to treat for at least a week preferably 2 (especially as you can't raise the temp) as some will be at different stages and you need to wait until all have been through the whole life cycle.
make sure the salt you use is 100% salt with no additives to make it free flowing, as these will harm/kill your fish

info below from this page i realise this website is goldfish specific, but the info on treatment still applies to other fish too.

Heat, salt and darkness: This is surely one of the most hotly debated topics in fishkeeping! The suggested treatment procedure is as follows:

* gradually increase the tank's temperature to 80 degrees F.
* add salt to a solution of 3 teaspoons per gallon (in increments of 1 tsp per gallon every 12 hours).
* keep the tank in darkness by switching the light off and covering it with cloth or paper.

The theory behind how this treatment works is this:

* Increasing the temperature to 80 degrees F speeds up the ich lifecycle to a few days and therefore speeds up the rate at which the tomites are killed off by the salt. It also boosts the fish's immune system, helping it to fight off the disease.
* The salt raises the salinity of the water to a level beyond the the tomites' osmoregulatory tolerance, causing them to burst. Also, the increased salinity stimulates the fish to produce a slightly thicker slime coat, helping to prevent re-infection and secondary infections.
* Ciliated protozoans cannot find new hosts easily in darkness and therefore more of the tomites die before they can latch on to the fish.

There seems to be good evidence, judging by the many stories related by people who have tried it, that this method does successfully cure ich.
However, many aquarists argue that it is an unsuitable, even dangerous, treatment because:

* Raising the temperature to 80F reduces the oxygen level in the water which can make it more difficult for the fish to breathe. Not a problem for bettas
* Higher temperatures encourage the rapid growth of bacteria and fungus, putting the fish at increased risk of secondary infections.
* Higher temperatures speed up the rate at which the ich reproduces and therefore places more stress on an already vulnerable fish population.
* Coldwater fish such as goldfish will be put under more stress by a tropical-level temperature. Not a problem for bettas
* Such a high level of salt places osmotic stress on the fish as well as the ich tomites, so if the fish is badly infested and therefore already struggling to control its osmoregulation - then this might be enough to kill it.
* There is no real evidence that darkness inhibits cilliated protozoans.

Having read around extensively, I believe these arguments are not without some justification. Higher temperatures DO decrease oxygen levels; salt DOES place osmotic stress on fish, for example.
However, as with any treatment, the fish's primary needs must be weighed-up: is the treatment going to harm the fish more or less than the disease? Will it harm the fish more or less than using store medications? Is there anything that can be done to ameliorate the risks of a chosen treatment?
Given how serious ich can become, and given how aggressive some medications such as formalin and copper can be in the tank, then I would not say that the heat and salt treatment is a poor option in comparison. Plus, there are things the fishkeeper can do to minimise some of the drawbacks: decreased oxygen levels can be resolved by increasing aeration in the tank, for example, and the temperature and salt can be increased gradually so avoid stressing the fish. And darkness certainly isn't harmful! And, of course, some of the risk factors are counter-balanced naturally by the fish itself: yes, a higher temperatures increases bacterial activity, but it also sends the fish's immune system into top gear, thus giving it extra protection against the bacteria.
In conclusion, I would say that store-bought medications carry equal benefits and risks in treatment of ich; it is up to each individual fishkeeper to decide which is the best option for their fish, because only they know their particular dispositions.
 

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