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What can I put in a 60 gallon tank?

Discussion in 'New to the Hobby Questions and Answers' started by Edwin092, Apr 19, 2019.

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  1. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    I have a 60 gallon tank with a marine land filter and it is freshwater tank, I also have 3 columbian tetras, and 2 dwarf gourami
    Do you have any suggestions for fishes I can keep for this tank that are compatible with those fishes
     
  2. Byron

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    Welcome to TFF. :hi:

    Members here like to know the source water parameters before suggesting suitable fish. Could you provide us with the GH (general or total hardness) and pH of your source (tap) water? If you don't have this, and are on municipal water, check the website of your water authority, it may bee there.

    Also, what are the dimensions of this 60g tank? This is important when considering the swimming activity of a fish species.
     
  3. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    My tank is 48 inches wide and 23 inches tall
     
  4. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    I don’t know my pH of my tap water but I use api where it cleans and keeps the ph level average 7-8 that is all I know
     
  5. Byron

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    Which API product do you use?

    As for the tap water GH (the more important) and pH, can you check the website of your water authority to see if it is given there?
     
  6. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    The total hardness is 3 according to the website
     
  7. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    My pH for my tap water is 6.5-8.5 and I also use API stress zyme, stress coat, accuclear, and tap water conditioner
     
  8. Byron

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    Every substance we add to the tank water gets inside the fish by osmosis through all the cells and via the gills. These substances then enter the bloodstream and internal organs. While they may not outright kill the fish (some can though) they still affect the fish detrimentally to varying degrees. So it is always best to use as few additives as possible, and only at amounts that are absolutely necessary for the issue.

    API Tap Water Conditioner is an excellent product, and in my view the best conditioner available. Use it as directed, never adding more than the amount required for the fresh water being added.

    Accuclear is a dangerous substance; it clarifies the water by sticking microscopic particulate matter together so it can more easily be removed by mechanical filters. Problem is, this also works on fish gills. Do not use this, or anything similar. The water will be clear if filtration is adequate and the fish load is no more than what the system can support and they are not overfed. Water changes and substrate vacuuming will also effect clearer water.

    StressCoat is not advisable. The water conditioner aspect (removing chlorine and chloramine) is repeating what the Tap Water Conditioner does, so that is wasted (and getting more inside the fish). The so-called artificial slime coat restorer is nonsense; it contains aloe vera which is now believed to be damaging to fish gills the more it is used. Do not use this product.

    StressZyme is not necessary. It claims to contain live bacteria "to consume sludge and reduce aquarium maintenance, keeping your aquarium clean and improving the natural aquarium cycle." This is frankly nonsense. A healthy biological system, improved by our careful stocking and feeding of fish, significant weekly partial water changes, vacuuming the open substrate areas, keeping the filter well cleaned...this is what you want. Live plants especially floating also benefit.

    Now to the GH and pH. Presumably a GH of 3 would be degrees, 3 dGH or 3dH. This is soft/very soft water. Ideal for such species as you have. There are many suitable fish for this tank, I'll come back to this.

    The pH of 6.5 to 8.5 is a real concern. If the pH is actually fluctuating this much it is seriously dangerous for fish. All those additives might factor in, along with water changes if too few or insufficient volume. But we need to pin this down. Do you have a pH test kit, and if yes, which one and type?
     
  9. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    So only use tap water conditioner, right?
     
  10. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    Yes I have a API freshwater master test kit
     
  11. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    Also do you Know any plants for beginners that doesn't need anything extra
     
  12. Byron

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    Yes, correct.
     
  13. Byron

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    Make sure you only add three drops of the regent to the 5 ml of tank water in the test tube. And always read the colour against the chart in diffused daylight if you can; never direct sunlight, and not artificial light as the colour wavelengths in this can distort the test colours. Always take the pH test at the approximate same time of day each time, say in the morning after the tank lights have been on for an hour or so, or in the evening. The ph will naturally vary a bit over 24 hours, so you want to take the test at the same time each day to obtain a clear understanding of any fluctuations.

    Make sure you rinse the test tube under the tap after each test. Rinse the tube in the tank water before testing each time.

    When testing tap water you need to ensure any CO2 is out-gassed as this can affect the result. Let a glass of tap water sit 24 hours then test it. This is not necessary with tank water, just fresh tap water.

    Floating plants are easiest, and they are also the most beneficial. Water Sprite, Frogbit; some stem plants like Pennywort and Wisteria can be left floating. Lower plants may have lighting issues, but there are some easy ones, like the pygmy chain sword, Java Moss, Java Fern, Anubias. The common Amazon Sword would work here (depending upon light), though substrate fertilizer tabs would improve its growth.
     
  14. Edwin092

    Edwin092 New Member

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    Ok ,also do you know what fishes I can keep?
     
  15. Byron

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    You have a lot of options with soft water and in a 4-foot tank of 60 gallons. The first thing is to decide about the existing fish, namely the Columbian Tetras (Hyphessobrycon columbianus). This is a shoaling species, which means that it lives in large groups and has an inherent need for a group of its own species. Six is usually considered minimum for such fish, but more is always going to be better for the fish and you (more interesting interaction) and some species need a few more to avoid possible fin nipping, and this is one of those. So if you like this fish, I would increase the group to 8 or 9. However, I do caution that it may still tend to nip fins of slower fish...like the gourami. There is not much else I can suggest here, as you have these already, but frankly I would either re-home the three Columbian Tetra or add another five or six and then go forward with other fish keeping in mind the possible issues with the Columbians.

    Once you decide on the above issue, finding suitable species should not be difficult. Keeping in mind the activity of the Columbians, similar active fish would be best. There are many tetras, the danios, maybe even a peaceful barb species...all these are also shoaling so they too need a group of their own and given the space here a group of seven to nine or ten, depending.

    For the substrate, most any of the cory catfish would work, another shoaling fish so 12-15 of one species or a mix. Some of the smaller peaceful loaches would work without the cories.
     

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