Tank Outline

[Diacodexis]

My plan for a tank - I am a beginner and want to ensure that the fish are as well cared for as possible. I will being doing more research likely for a couple months and saving up enough money before I prepare the tank so i am as ready as I can be but here is my early plan - anything to look out for/include please let me know

Tank
- Aqueon 20 gal. Long Tank
- Aqueon LED Deluxe Fish Tank Aquarium Full Hood, Black, 30 Inch

Fish
- 2 (or 3 if that is better?) female honey gourami
- 4 kuhli loach

Plants
- Java fern
- Anubias
- Cryptocoryne
- Amazon frogbit
- Red root floaters
(choosing from this list - may not get every plant here)

Food
- Fluval Bug Bites Tropical Freshwater Formula Flakes Fish Food, 3.17-oz
- frozen brine shrimp
- API Sinking Squid Pellets Bottom Feeder Fish Food, 1.5-oz bottle
any other ideas for food to keep their diets varied?

Supplies
- Imagitarium IN-FIL 20 Sponge Filter, 20 Galllons
- Seachem Neutral Regulator 500 g / 1.1 lbs
- Tetra SafeStart for Freshwater Aquariums, 3.38 oz
- AquaMiracle Aquarium Heater 100W Fish Tank Heater for 10-20 Gallon Tanks
- API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Kit, White, Single, Multi-Colored
- Aqua Natural Aquarium Substrate, Galaxy Sand, 20lb
- Laifoo 5ft Aquarium Siphon Vacuum Cleaner for Fish Tank Cleaning Gravel & Sand
- Fluval 12694 Plant and Shrimp Stratum for Freshwater Fish Tanks, 8.8 lbs
- API LEAF ZONE Freshwater Aquarium Plant Fertilizer 18-Ounce Bottle White
- Freesea Automatic Fish Feeder for Aquarium (for when I am away)

I may be forgetting something but this is off of my notes & the top of my head

 

[Rusty_Shackleford57 172]

My thoughts are as follows.
Skip the shrimp and plant stratum. It's not necessary.
Get a better fertilizer than API.
Skip the floating plants at least initially. Your light isn't great, so give the plants a few months to get established before adding floating plants that could potentially shade them out. The good thing is you have chosen low light plants.
How often and for how many days do you go out of town? Fish can easily go several days without food.
I would make the test kit one of my first purchases that way you can test your tap water and determine if the gouramis and loaches would thrive in your water.

 

[gimme30]

I don't have experience with the Aqueon light but if it's like other kit lights, it's going to be way too bright for anubias unless it's got a dimmer built in. Or if you can swap bulbs for a more plant friendly version. I'd add elodea densa to your plant list and let it float-you're going to need something to suck up extra nutrients and that stuff grows like a weed. Personally I wouldn't fertilize at all unless/until you start seeing signs of deficiencies. Maybe a root tab under the crypt. At start up you're liable to get some sort of algae and ferts are just going to make things worse.

Those kuhlis are going to want someplace to hide so build a rock cave, or add wood, or stuff in a giant sunken pirate ship with cannon ball holes in the side for them to crawl in and out of. Whatever suits your fancy. Frozen blood worms add variety but don't feed it daily.
Don't forget an air pump for the filter!

 

[Jennet37 95]

I have over the last couple of months watched a lot of video's on pimp my filter and he says that you need to double the amount of filtration per gallon tank in order to get just over half of what the stated amount is. This said, I now use an Oase 200 litre instead of the 100 and this gives me enough capacity in an 80 litre tank to add 4 more fish than the 100 was saying was ok, one of them being a large (compared to the others) siamese fighting fish as the centrepiece. I still have to research if this will be ok with neon green rasbora and chili rasbora, but I am considering it.

 

[GaryE18 16]

I tend to go for simplified set ups. So, there are things you don't need.
First, the Seachem neutral regulator. You have to learn what your water source is like, and roll with it. That comes from the test kit, or from going online and looking up the info for where you are. New York is a big area, so we can't base advice on NYC or upstate NY, as they have radically different water. If you're rural and on a well, you probably have it tested for water quality. Check that. It will decide what fish thrive for you.

The soils are a waste of money for your ambitions. Go with a fine grained gravel/sand. It costs less and does a better job. The cypts can use root tabs. The other choices need nothing, assuming you don't start with floaters. I've had reasonable results with the API fert product for the simple plant growth I'm after, for floating plants. But they will outgrow the other plants and shade them. I agree with the advice to go in stages. No aquarium is ready when it starts, and like a garden, the best results go to the patient.

For all my rooted plants, I use root tabs. If you have a local aquarium society, look for it. There's always someone who makes their own and sells them.

Next, don't "make" the tank and then get fish. Design the tank for the fish species going in. What do they need? Look to their natural history and habitat. Honey gouramis like quiet waters.

I would also save some money and grief by not getting the fish feeder. Healthy fish will easily go 2 to 3 weeks unfed. They don't maintain body temperature as we do, and so don't need to burn energy as we mammals do. I feed my fish once a day and skip a day a week. If I go away for 2 weeks - once the tank is planted and established, I've had young fish double their size in tanks. They key is not to overstock, and maintain water quality.

 

[Diacodexis]

I tend to go for simplified set ups. So, there are things you don't need.
First, the Seachem neutral regulator. You have to learn what your water source is like, and roll with it. That comes from the test kit, or from going online and looking up the info for where you are. New York is a big area, so we can't base advice on NYC or upstate NY, as they have radically different water. If you're rural and on a well, you probably have it tested for water quality. Check that. It will decide what fish thrive for you.

The soils are a waste of money for your ambitions. Go with a fine grained gravel/sand. It costs less and does a better job. The cypts can use root tabs. The other choices need nothing, assuming you don't start with floaters. I've had reasonable results with the API fert product for the simple plant growth I'm after, for floating plants. But they will outgrow the other plants and shade them. I agree with the advice to go in stages. No aquarium is ready when it starts, and like a garden, the best results go to the patient.

For all my rooted plants, I use root tabs. If you have a local aquarium society, look for it. There's always someone who makes their own and sells them.

Next, don't "make" the tank and then get fish. Design the tank for the fish species going in. What do they need? Look to their natural history and habitat. Honey gouramis like quiet waters.

I would also save some money and grief by not getting the fish feeder. Healthy fish will easily go 2 to 3 weeks unfed. They don't maintain body temperature as we do, and so don't need to burn energy as we mammals do. I feed my fish once a day and skip a day a week. If I go away for 2 weeks - once the tank is planted and established, I've had young fish double their size in tanks. They key is not to overstock, and maintain water quality.

thank you so much -- super helpful and thoughtful info I really appreciate it. To clarify, if my tap water is within the range which my fish will thrive in it does not need treatment (besides Seachem Prime, which I forgot to list here) and will be fine as long as I do regular water changes?

 

[Diacodexis]

I don't have experience with the Aqueon light but if it's like other kit lights, it's going to be way too bright for anubias unless it's got a dimmer built in. Or if you can swap bulbs for a more plant friendly version. I'd add elodea densa to your plant list and let it float-you're going to need something to suck up extra nutrients and that stuff grows like a weed. Personally I wouldn't fertilize at all unless/until you start seeing signs of deficiencies. Maybe a root tab under the crypt. At start up you're liable to get some sort of algae and ferts are just going to make things worse.

Those kuhlis are going to want someplace to hide so build a rock cave, or add wood, or stuff in a giant sunken pirate ship with cannon ball holes in the side for them to crawl in and out of. Whatever suits your fancy. Frozen blood worms add variety but don't feed it daily.
Don't forget an air pump for the filter!

Thank you so much! Really good to know I will keep this all in mind and may aim for a different light/lid. Will definitely be getting additional structures for the tank as well

 

[fishorama52]

As a loach lover I would go with 6 or 7 pangios (kuhlis) rather than just 4. I had striped (semicincta) in a 20 long, they were wonderful, calm & people interactive. I had both black (oblonga) & my semicintas in a larger tank. The oblongas (black) were too active for a 20g (just my experience). They never calmed down & I'd worry they'd easily jump from a 20g. Get all the same species at the same time.

As for plants, I'd skip the floaters. RR get long roots, both will block light. Too much bother for me. Most java ferns get too tall for a 12" depth & are not planted in the substrate but, like anubias & bucephalandra, attched to wood or rocks. Crypts can fill a similar shape to javas, my fav genus! 100s or even thousands of species & varieties. Try some of the wendtii varieties. Mi Oya is a pretty purple. but there's red, green, bronze & more; all get to 6+ inches. Another nice crypt is c. nurii, 3-4 inches tall, green & pink leaves. Check them out! (OK, I belong to a plant club & have been given...& killed, many plants, lol). I do as GaryE & give root tab ferts every 3-4 months. Another plant to look at is vallisnaria asiatica, so called Italian or spiral val. It needs a bit of control, it spreads by runners (so do crypts but they're much slower). A nice contrasting shape 6-10 inches tall. I would strongly suggest you not try stem plants. In such a shallow tank you'll be trimming weekly & still feel out of control.

Get a timer for your lights! 6 or 7 hours is enough for all the plants I suggested. More will only encourage algae. You can split the time if that works for your schedule.

& as GaryE said, fish are fine with a week or 2 of no feeding. My husband doesn't believe that lol, so we have a neighbor feed very lightly every 2-3 days. Make sure they understand less food is better & there's no making up for missed meals.

My best advice is to get into a regular water change schedule of 30-50% every week or so. There's nothing that keeps fish healthier & it won't be awful if you skip a change or even 2 if you have good habits.

 

[GaryE18 16]

thank you so much -- super helpful and thoughtful info I really appreciate it. To clarify, if my tap water is within the range which my fish will thrive in it does not need treatment (besides Seachem Prime, which I forgot to list here) and will be fine as long as I do regular water changes?

It's good to find out if your local water supply has chloramines or chlorine added. Mine has only chlorine, so I can use any type of dechlorinator. Chloramines are a bigger problem for us, and require different treatments like Prime. When I do my weekly water change, I add the amount of dechlor I need then pour the temperature adjusted water in. That's all. Quite simple and effective.
If people get into doctoring the water, they usually do fewer water changes as fresh water hasn't been played with. That becomes a situation where each water change creates instability. I view regular water changes as a huge factor in my success as a fishkeeper, and would advise anyone setting up a freshwater tank to do them religiously, on schedule. I walk my dog regularly, even in the rain and snow, and I change aquarium water regularly. Its part of caring for things.

A wild card is polluted drinking water, which seems to be an issue in parts of the US and in England. Your test kit should tell you if you're getting nitrates from the tap. If so, the game is slightly more complicated. That would need some of the experts here to help out with, but hopefully it doesn't apply to you.

I'm a fish guy, not a chemist or a water tester. I have the luxury of living with good, clean tapwater. I haven't owned a kit for years, although I think they are good for new aquarists, or people who have moved to new areas to use. You have to learn your water.

 

[Diacodexis]

As a loach lover I would go with 6 or 7 pangios (kuhlis) rather than just 4. I had striped (semicincta) in a 20 long, they were wonderful, calm & people interactive. I had both black (oblonga) & my semicintas in a larger tank. The oblongas (black) were too active for a 20g (just my experience). They never calmed down & I'd worry they'd easily jump from a 20g. Get all the same species at the same time.

As for plants, I'd skip the floaters. RR get long roots, both will block light. Too much bother for me. Most java ferns get too tall for a 12" depth & are not planted in the substrate but, like anubias & bucephalandra, attched to wood or rocks. Crypts can fill a similar shape to javas, my fav genus! 100s or even thousands of species & varieties. Try some of the wendtii varieties. Mi Oya is a pretty purple. but there's red, green, bronze & more; all get to 6+ inches. Another nice crypt is c. nurii, 3-4 inches tall, green & pink leaves. Check them out! (OK, I belong to a plant club & have been given...& killed, many plants, lol). I do as GaryE & give root tab ferts every 3-4 months. Another plant to look at is vallisnaria asiatica, so called Italian or spiral val. It needs a bit of control, it spreads by runners (so do crypts but they're much slower). A nice contrasting shape 6-10 inches tall. I would strongly suggest you not try stem plants. In such a shallow tank you'll be trimming weekly & still feel out of control.

Get a timer for your lights! 6 or 7 hours is enough for all the plants I suggested. More will only encourage algae. You can split the time if that works for your schedule.

& as GaryE said, fish are fine with a week or 2 of no feeding. My husband doesn't believe that lol, so we have a neighbor feed very lightly every 2-3 days. Make sure they understand less food is better & there's no making up for missed meals.

My best advice is to get into a regular water change schedule of 30-50% every week or so. There's nothing that keeps fish healthier & it won't be awful if you skip a change or even 2 if you have good habits.

Thank you so much. I was worried that 20 gal wouldnt be enough for more loaches but it is so good to hear from your experience that it works out. Especially good to know which specific species thrive in 20 gal long!! Great plant info too - plants have given me the most trouble in my research i think so I appreciate it a lot - great advice

 

[Diacodexis]

It's good to find out if your local water supply has chloramines or chlorine added. Mine has only chlorine, so I can use any type of dechlorinator. Chloramines are a bigger problem for us, and require different treatments like Prime. When I do my weekly water change, I add the amount of dechlor I need then pour the temperature adjusted water in. That's all. Quite simple and effective.
If people get into doctoring the water, they usually do fewer water changes as fresh water hasn't been played with. That becomes a situation where each water change creates instability. I view regular water changes as a huge factor in my success as a fishkeeper, and would advise anyone setting up a freshwater tank to do them religiously, on schedule. I walk my dog regularly, even in the rain and snow, and I change aquarium water regularly. Its part of caring for things.

A wild card is polluted drinking water, which seems to be an issue in parts of the US and in England. Your test kit should tell you if you're getting nitrates from the tap. If so, the game is slightly more complicated. That would need some of the experts here to help out with, but hopefully it doesn't apply to you.

I'm a fish guy, not a chemist or a water tester. I have the luxury of living with good, clean tapwater. I haven't owned a kit for years, although I think they are good for new aquarists, or people who have moved to new areas to use. You have to learn your water.

thank you so much for the clarification & info -- really good to know