Water Changes

chrisodapz

New Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Location
London
hi,

do you have to use tap water to cycle your tank or what other options are there if any apart from buying from LFS.
Also can you take out water and put back in using a jug for example instead of using a pipe,( a silly question i know )
I have seen a testing kit by Nutrafin are they ok to use ?


Thanks

chriso
 
Hi chriso.

Is this a freshwater tank you're setting up? If it is then tap water is fine for most standard tropiccal fish. You might need to look at RO water if your tap water is very hard and you want to keep the more delicate softwater fish, like Discus. Even then, you can still use tapwater while you do a fishless cycle.

If it's a saltwater tank, you will need to use RO water, although I don't know much about marines, so it would be best to ask in the marine section of the forum ;)

There aren't really any other options water wise; bottled mineral and spring waters are either too hard or prohibitively expensive!

You certainly can use a jug, especially if you have to do a water change during a fishless cycle. Once you have fish though, a pipe is better as you can suck up any uneaten food and fish poo that sinks into your gravel.

I haven't used the Nutrifin test kit myself, but as long as it's one that uses test tubes and not paper strips it should be fine.
 
i use nutrafin ammonia test

its very good has not let me down yet :D
 
Hi chriso and Welcome to TFF!

Excellent question that puts you right into an important topic here in our section! In fact, contrary to what many of think as beginners (and may be pushed to think by the folks who want to sell us as many bottles as possible,) tap water is wonderful stuff for tropical fish! It should be assumed that one's tap water is good until proven otherwise!

Tap water contains Calcium, Magnesium and other trace minerals that fish need and that also have probably been constituting the total mineral or "hardness" situation that their cells have been getting used to being balanced with (remember that stuff in school about how cell walls do the job protecting the cell from too much concentration or dilution of substances on the inside versus out, lol?) Often our fish are acclimated to the tap water where we purchase them and it's often the same as ours (though not always of course.)

In a forum peppered with experienced aquarists you will begin to hear lots of stuff about doing fancy things to your water, but as a beginner you should remain cautious. The really experienced ones will tell you to first hope that your tap water is decent for the type of fish you want to keep - this is the best state of affairs possible! It's actually quite a rare thing that one goes to the trouble of "creating" water of a different type (hardness, pH etc.) because it's a huge and trouble-prone undertaking, especially since it can force you into procedures that you have to keep doing week after week, year after year!

Anyway, let us know -why- you are thinking about water other than your tap water. Some of the Nutrafin testing kits are ok (I have a KH one I like) but in general many of us don't like these as much as the API or Salifert kits. Most of us for beginners like and recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

Your other question about water removal methods falls into a completely different category. While in some situations it would certainly be better to change water than not to even if one did not have a "gravel cleaning siphon" because one were just beginning in the hobby.. it turns out that having and using these "cylinder and hose" contraptions is right at the heart of one of the most important maintenance skills in the hobby!

Using a gravel cleaning siphon (by which we mean a hose with the (usually clear) cylinder attached that allows the gravel to fall back into the tank after being disturbed and sucked up a few inches by the outgoing flow of water) is an extremely important thing, often right from the beginning. It can even be needed a few times during those first couple of months while you are fishless cycling your filter to turn it in to a biofilter. But it really begins to shine (well, I guess we wouldn't think that about brown debris :lol: ) once your filter is cycled and you've introduced your first fish! The gravel siphon is the key part of the habit we call the "Weekly Water Change!" I think of it as one of the most powerful habits for beginners to learn.

Even when the water is crystal clear, the tank new and the gravel not even seeming to have debris, it turns out that the gravel siphon can do important work. Many of the nitrates(NO3) and other invisible ions and molecules we want to remove will hang down with the gravel because of gravity or molecular charge and it is only via our "disturbance siphon" that we easily change this situation.

~~waterdrop~~ :)
 
hi all,

Thank you for your replies, I have never been on a forum that is as friendly and helpful as this one.
i bought the tank 2nd hand and i got a gravel siphon with it but haven't used it yet but will do now should be fun.

My mistake was i read that its best to buy a few hardy fish to put in to get the cycle working,i have had the tank running for a week before this stage with plants lights and air pump.

It is freshwater, sorry i didnt state that. I wish i found this forum before i did.
I have a external hagen 305 filter/pump unit which has some media that was used before but the person i bought it from was experienced fish keeper so said to leave some of the media in there.
I have now bought a API master test kit as its mentioned alot on this forum, I did buy a strip kit previous lol now i know from here and when i used it its not very good.

any more tips would be a great help

Thanks all,

chriso
 
I use the gravel vac to clean my substrate and remove water around 6-7 buckets worth,i then replace it using dechlorinated water using the buckets and a jug. :rolleyes:

Some do use the python method where they have a long tube connected from the tank to the sink to empty it out,then replace the water by reversing and attaching it to the main tap to fill it back up,putting the dechlorinator in first :good:
 
Welcome to our forum Chrisodapz.
As usual, you are getting great advice from WD. You really have no need for anything special from your LFS. During a fishless cycle, the simple fact is that you are trying to grow the few bacteria that have arrived into your tank from your local water supply. What we do is try to establish the right conditions for those bacteria to grow and multiply. The slightly high pH and warm water temperatures that WD and others will suggest will help you grow those bacteria more quickly. The Nutrafin test kit is not the one most commonly used here but it should work just fine. The only problem you will have is that many of us are more familiar with the API test kit so we are not up on the details of your kit. As long as you do not have issues about how to use the test kit, that will not be an issue.
 
hi,
I have now recieved my API master test kit so i will do a test later today when i get home from work and post results here.
My tank is a fish in cycle as i got 4 zebra danio's and 4 barbs.
Can anyone recommend a good quiet air pump thats ok for a 125ltr tank and not too exspensive.

Thanks.

chriso.
 
hi,
I have now recieved my API master test kit so i will do a test later today when i get home from work and post results here.
My tank is a fish in cycle as i got 4 zebra danio's and 4 barbs.
Can anyone recommend a good quiet air pump thats ok for a 125ltr tank and not too exspensive.

Thanks.

chriso.
tetratec Aps150 should be just right for your size aquarium, mine is very quiet now that i have it placed on a old computer mouse mat.

Keith.
 
hi,
I have now used my API test kit and readings as follows

ammonia = 0 ppm
nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = 60 ppm
PH = 8.0

Can anyone advise on what is best to do next regarding these readings.

many thanks.

chriso
 
Hello Chriso,
With you being in a fish-in cycle you want to be testing your water parameters on a daily basis, followed by a water change when your presented with ammonia/nitrIte levels 0.25ppm or higher. Please have a look at the article on fish-in cycle(link) in my signature at the bottom of this post.

Keith.
 
I can indeed recommend a nice quiet air pump. I have been very well impressed with the Rena series of air pumps. I find them quiet in use and they have been quite reliable in delivering air. I have a few in my fish rooms running from 4 to 10 air stones each and they are reliable and quiet. I also have a bit of experience with the "quiet" air pumps by Whisper and I cannot give them the same high ratings. I find them relatively noisy and not at all what I would want with my tanks or even in my fish room.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top