Tropical noob...help needed!

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mark150389

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Hi all,

As a keen follower/poster of road cycling forums I know how annoying it is for people to repost repetitive questions.. for that I am eternally sorry! I've just bought a 240l fish tank and I have no idea what to do with it! My girlfriend has kept tropical fish for 4-5 yrs in a small tabletop style tank, but nothing on this scale. I have a few initial findings/questions if I may, any help will be greatly appreciated!

  1. We're starting from scratch with an empty tank - We need to buy gravel for the base, but I prefer finer gravel, closer to sand, although i've been told this suffocates live plants roots and that I should avoid it - Any basis to this argument?
  2. From research it appears the Eheim filter would be a wise choice over something like Fluval or smaller brands, for ease of use, although i'm sure that will open a can of worms on here!
  3. In terms of the set-up, how long should I look to leave the tank to settle before adding in any plants or fish life to it? I know we need to do appropriate tests to make sure chemical levels are adequate.
  4. How much basis do the equations on cm of fish per litre hold? We'll be adding fish periodically so I would assume its more of a personal feeling/not too crowded tank over a mathematical equation?
We also need a heater (probably Fluval) and an LED light bar before we even get the tank up and running, so all quite an expense which wasn't considered when buying the tank but it will look aces once it's up and running!

Thanks in advance.
Mark
 
Welcome to TFF.

We're starting from scratch with an empty tank - We need to buy gravel for the base, but I prefer finer gravel, closer to sand, although i've been told this suffocates live plants roots and that I should avoid it - Any basis to this argument?

No there is not. I have play sand in all my tanks. Plants will grow very well in it, and all fish will like it (some like cories need it). As a former fine gravel substrate aquarist, I wish I had made the change to sand much sooner than I did. I've had it for 6+ years now. Play sand is inexpensive, realistic in appearance, completely safe. The dark grey is better, but whatever, avoid any white sand as this will affect fish.

From research it appears the Eheim filter would be a wise choice over something like Fluval or smaller brands, for ease of use, although i'm sure that will open a can of worms on here!

Eheim has the proven track record like no other brand. But before deciding on filters, you need to settle on the intended aquascape/fish, as fish can be affected by filter flow. A 240 liter (66 gallon roughly) is large enough that you have options such as active fish requiring currents, or sedate fish needing none, and the filter is your tool here. Live plants also make a difference.

In terms of the set-up, how long should I look to leave the tank to settle before adding in any plants or fish life to it? I know we need to do appropriate tests to make sure chemical levels are adequate.

If you intend live plants, aquascape the tank with the plants on day one. Once the plants are showing signs of growth, and provided there are some faster-growing species (floating plants are ideal for this, plus their other benefits for fish) you can slowly add fish without worrying about cycling. A tank will not fully establish biologically for a few months, once the fish are also in it, but with live plants you should not have any issues.

Tests...the API Master Combo liquid test kit is a good investment. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH tests. All needed initially, and down the road periodic pH and nitrate tests; ammonia and nitrite at the first sign of a problem (like a dead fish).

How much basis do the equations on cm of fish per litre hold? We'll be adding fish periodically so I would assume its more of a personal feeling/not too crowded tank over a mathematical equation?

While this body mass/water volume ratio has some value, it is frankly useless. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved for a very specific environment (meaning, water parameters, natural habitat, numbers, other species, plants, water flow, etc). The species will be healthy in such conditions; any adverse conditions will likely add stress and that weakens the fish and makes life much more difficult for the fish.

Where I am going with this: a group of 20 cardinal tetras can be completely happy and healthy in a 20 gallon tank which provides a replica of their habitat; a group of 20 danios in the same tank will not be healthy or happy at all, because what they need is not being provided. Yet the water volume and fish mass ratio is basically identical.

Fish requirements is programmed into the species' DNA, so we must understand the requirements for each species and then provide the closest replication we can if we want healthy fish. This is why you need to sort out the intended aquascape with the likely fish species in the proper numbers (shoaling species must have a group or they will be stressed) with suitable tankmates first, then build the aquarium to provide the requirements.
 
Just to add to what Byron said. Once you have established your water parameters (specifically hardness and pH) seriouslyfish.com is a good place to research species profiles in terms of requirements.

As for filter brands there really isn't that much to choose between them. I've had a Fluval 406 for many years and it does the job admirably - it does have a pretty high flow though. I recently tried a "budget" Aqua One canister (Aussie brand), and have been very impressed with that.
 
Thanks guys, very helpful. I'll post back here once we're a few steps forward with it and maybe some photos. Currently in the process of buying all components to set the tank up before we can stock with anything!
 
When you get your test kit, test your tap water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Leave a glass of water to stand for 24 hours and test that for pH - you'll probably find it is not the same as a freshly run sample of water. Hopefully your tap water will have no ammonia or nitrite but it will probably have some nitrate.
And look at your water company's website for the hardness of your tap water. You need a number not words, and also the unit as they could use any one of half a dozen different units.

Once you have all this info, post it here :)
 
When you get your test kit, test your tap water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Leave a glass of water to stand for 24 hours and test that for pH - you'll probably find it is not the same as a freshly run sample of water. Hopefully your tap water will have no ammonia or nitrite but it will probably have some nitrate.
And look at your water company's website for the hardness of your tap water. You need a number not words, and also the unit as they could use any one of half a dozen different units.

Once you have all this info, post it here :)

Hi EssJay

Thanks for the post, here's the details from the water supplier. I'll do the glass of water test once we've purchased the test kit..

265 mg/l CaCO₃
18.52 English degrees or degrees clark
26.46 French degrees
14.82 German degrees
2.65 mmol/l
14.82 Grains per US gallon
18.52 Grains per British Gallon

This means your water is classified as hard
 
In fishkeeping we use just 2 units - German degrees, also called dH or dGH, and ppm, also called mg/l calcium carbonate. Your water company gives German deg, and that can easily be converted to ppm. You need these two figures because some fish profiles give a species' hardness range in one unit, other profiles use the other.

Hardness:
14.82 dH
265 ppm
 

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