Serious Filter Recommendation Required

Vaseline is what I use, but for genuine rubber it will caurse issues. For the Tetratec, Vaseline is recomended. Fluvals will require propper O-ring grease, as they use propper rubber, though Vaseline will increase a Fluval seals life by a bit :good:

Would lube do a good job??


Yes, I mean proper lube! :crazy:
 
I think you've missed one of the USPs of a cannister. You can routinely leave them alone for up to 6 months without the flow rate dropping at all.


Asfor the discussion about O Ring lubrication - any rubber seals that are in contact with water need lubricant. This doesn't mean it "breaks" nor is it a design fault. It just means that, when you open the filter to clean it, you perform a 30 second bit of maintenance on the Rubber seal.
Hardly a show-stopper!
 
Blolded section does seem to imply the comment I made about you not thinking them reliable IMO....

then you either dont know how to read, or your reading comprehension is poor. im not sure which, but either way, this has been explained to you numerous times now.

Be careful with Ad-homen comments. They can be agaist forum rules, if seen as hateful, discriminate e.t.c ;)

The origional context did appear to infer that you thought the Rena exturnal would not be capable of lasting as long as your livestock. I have re-read it a few times to be clear, and that is deffinately being implyed, intentionally or otherwise. Either your posting style is unclear and you may whish to look at that to avoid confusion in the future, or there was an intentional ineration there (if inferation is a word :lol: ).

sorry, it was a typo. it was the 203 i was referring to
also, when buying a filter second hand there is more to worry about then simply how long it was in operation. without having actually been there, you have no idea what kind of condition the filter is truly in. its admirable that you believe this "respected member" has taken care of the filter as it should have been, and may well have, but you can never be sure when buying second hand.

I know age isn't the main issue. The main one is maintanance, more to the point, if the seals were loobed, impeller kept clean and free, preventing it running dry where ever possible e.t.c

Well a mech filter does not remove the dirt by itself does it? It's still in the system, just in the filter media. It will still leach out the mank untill removed, 6 months later in the case of a canister when you clean it, so yes, IMO mech is just asthetic unless you are cleaning your filter on an exteramly regular bases ;)

BAHAHAHAHAH :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
are you saying you dont clean your filters? or only every 6 mo?
BAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHA
again, i hope youre not serious
i dont even think this needs to be readdressed.

Something entertaining about the fact you don't have to clean a canister filter out regularly? My TT runs on a 335l planted discus tank that gets at least 4 heavy feeds a day, and does not suffer from a loss of flow for 6 months at a time. It collects the dirt all right, the tank runs with sand so dirt is always obviouse when present, and the sand looks spotless most of the time :good: You find where it all went when you open the filter though :sick: The general rule with any filter is not to touch unless flow rates are realy dropping off. You can keep a filter too clean :good:

So, yes, that was a serious comment. IME, mech filtration is only asthetic ;)

Right, well, removing half as much over twice as many passes, lets look at this in detail. For simplicity's sake, lets assume the canisters is just managing to remove it all in one pass, so the HOB is removing half.

Can at 1 turnovers per hour, 100% removed per pass

on first pass; 100% removed

HOB at 2 turnovers per hour, 50% removed per pass

on first pass; 50% removed
on second pass; 75% removed (50% of 50% = 25%, so 25% of the origional was removed second pass, making 75% in total ;) )

i think you need to check your math again. 50% + 50% = 100% here in the US. the second pass would be the same amount as the first pass. not 50% of the ammonia in the filter, rather 50% of the ammonia in the tank. thus, 2 passes doing the same as 1 of the canister.

So, to summarise

Mech = HOB, without a doubt.
Bio = depends on the system (while a tetratech will not do the same as an aquaclear. the same goes for basic canisters vs. updated ones)
Price = HOB wins

Mech is won with modifyed HOB's or running a powerhead along side as you yourself state, when compaired to an out of the box can. Give the privelage of mods to the can also, or the powerhead option, and the can still wins ;) So, a corrected summary of your chart to allow for either modifying both, or neither gives

Mech = can
Bio = still debating
Price - HOB ;)

Now, why two passes, when removing half of the ammonia per pass, are equal to 75%. Same as per waterchanges. You remove half the waste on the first pass, so lets say 1ppm goes in;

1/2 = 0.5 out

Now, second pass removes another half

0.5/2 = 0.25 out

So, as a persantage, thats 0.25/1 * 100 = 25% of the origional amount, so 75% was removed. The dispute is because you are assuming that when half is removed per pass, you can add the halves together. This is incorrect. You are removing half of what goes in. We are also assuming that no ammonia is added between passes here also, reality is obviously different.

Since we are still debating Mech, lets look at it again to see why it's still debatable. You have to modify the filter or double up or install a powerhead as you say. You can do this with the can and improve it's mech filtration also. If you placed the spraybar of the can directly above the substrate so it kicked all the much up into the water colum, and modifyed your HOB to take water from the opposit end of the tank, you would likely find the can out-performs the HOB still, as the can still has the better circulation pattern in the tank :good:

this would be true if modifying it, or adding the powerhead, was necessary. however it isnt. as mentioned after your first post in this thread, modification is an additional option to further increase performance, but is not necessary out of the box. with the HOB putting out double the flowrate of the can (maybe more depending on the canister), it is absolutely doing a better job of mech filtration. even with a canister, there will be dead spots in the tank where debris settles to the bottom, unfortunately, unlike the HOB mentioned, it does not have the additional sucking power to make up for those dead spots. so, no, the can does not provide anywhere close to the amount of mechanical filtration as the HOB.

:lol: hang on a second here, you are shurely contradicting yourself again :lol:

Right, the can pushes a better flow throughout the whole tank, so keeping all the particles in suspension longer than the HOB with localised curculation spots mainly, yes? Great , we agree on this for the second time :good: So, with the HOB, half of the tank is a dead spot, where as with the can, only a few areas are. Therefore, while the HOB does clean locally far better than the can, overall, it's preforming worse.

The comment you make about Tetratec's being as bad as Fluvals, where did I make it? What I said about the life of the seal on the TT compaired to a Fluval was assuming the filters were being poorly maintained, not under propper running conditions :good: Maintain both well, and you'll find that the Tetratec should be more reliable :good:

All the best
Rabbut
 
I guess some things are getting lost in translation from english to whatever language you speak, because apparently you don't understand a lot of what's being said. One of the downfalls of being in two different countries. Too bad though. A lot of the information could have been useful to you down the road.
But as you insist on running in circles I will have to respectfully bow out. I can't continue to explain to you 3x over. Its just a waste of bandwith at this point.
Also, as I have contacted hagen uk twice now, it is apparent that you are not able to utilize this system anyway. And both representatives said there is no reason, they just don't bring them in. So, as you don't see to fully understand them (because you don't have access to them), and you have no means of aquiring one of these systems, there is really no point in trying to further educate you on the subject.


to the OP:
It really comes down to what you're willing to spend, and what is available to you. Eheim canisters are great means of filtration but can be pricey. Ime, they are well worth their prices. And as apparently the rubber gaskets made in the UK are not very good quality, you will want to make sure to get an extra tube of lubricant from the manufacturer. While patroleum jelly may work, I do not believe it it completely fish safe. Look for lubricant made specifically for use on aquarium equipment just to be safe, and use as directed.

Best of luck
-aspects
 
It's a shame he's gone off this thread, I was just starting to feel we were getting somewhere with it :rolleyes:
 
And as apparently the rubber gaskets made in the UK are not very good quality

WOW - I didn't expect to see anything that uninformed on this thread.

Rubber needs to be lubricated if it is contact with water on a long term basis. Its nothing to do with it being "poor quality" rubber.


Dear me!

the eheims i have purchased here in the us have not been lubricated in 4 months, and are cleaned weekly. do the math
 
Don't the instructions on Eheims tell you to lubricate? I know Fluval filter manuals tell you to.

Nobody debates it's possible to have filter gaskets go without lubrication for months, even many years in the case of some Eheims - but it's a universal thing that rubber gaskets (or whatever some of them are made of now) require lubrication in order to last longer and be safe. Especially if they are to be left for a while without use (I've heard a lot of stories where a filter goes unused for years or months, then suddenly leaks when connected up).

Also, just because you've got away with it, doest mean it's good. It's like people who have kept goldfish in bowls for a year or two - sure, they have got away with it, but the fishes life has been shortened dramatically.

Maths done...
 
yes. the instructions are to initially lightly lubricate the rings during assembly. though i dont see anything about them breaking in 6mo and needing to be repaired. or even re-lubricated in that amount of time. and my filters are opened and closed WEEKLY., during routine cleaning. after the initial assembly they were all lubricated only twice, once during an overhaul, and once when i replaced the rings. and the rings werent replaced because they were worn.

keeping goldfish in bowls is a dead form of the hobby, just like UGF. there have been many advancements in the equipment used making such ignorant husbandry obsolete. unfortunately, these advancements have not gotten rid of the goldfish bowl altogether. but with time im sure it will catch in. much in the way there have been advancements in equipment, so have there been in the materials used. your o-rings and gaskets should bot break in 6mo. period.

faulty math, but ive noticed youre not quite the mathematician
 
Wow. Fun thread.

The instructions I've just looked at say to lubricate gaskets as part of maintenance, with no mention of how long between maintenance. It's safe to assume that lubrication should be done frequently, if not as often as any other maintenance (which you apparently seem to believe is needed weekly).

Logic and anecdotal evidence combined with manufacturer recommendation on rubber gaskets suggest that not doing so leads to vastly shortened gasket life, where as there is no evidence to suggest that lubricating them does any harm, so I ask you: "do the math".

Faulty maths? Interesting statement...because you never actually noted anything I said as being wrong or faulty...

If you would like to do so, go ahead, but please continue in a polite, logical and non-insulting manner.

As a side note, I'd like to point out that UGF are not quite yet obsolete, and comparing keeping goldfish in a bowl to operating UGFs doesn't quite make sense. Many people and especially LFS continue to use them, as they have advantages over power filters. For many tanks they are just as effective as sponge filters.
 

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