TwoTankAmin37
Fish Maniac
I learned the hard way yesterday that my Eheim Pro 2 2026 was leaking and it ruined the hardwood floor times in front of the tank. The floor needed to be replaced when I downsized more tanks. So. all I had to do was figure a patch. However, I thought the leak was due to the top floss pad having clogged since the filter is loaded with all Poret foam- both baskets. The filter can go years before it need cleaning, the floss cannot is what I figured.
I took the filter off of the tank last evening and today I spent a lot of time cleaning it. I returned it to the tank and saw no leak the first couple of hours. I figured I had fixed it/ I was wrong and the floor started to flood again. The water was pooling in the well where the plug goes into the head with all the pumping. I went onto google and asked about a leaking Pro 2 2026. It had three common leaks and one specified the leaking was from that well. The leaking is caused by the gasket related to the priming button. The cheapest I could find an Eheim replacement for was almost $50. So I went back to Google and ended up talking to the AI.
Many years ago when Eheim stopped making the Pro 2. I think they are now up to the Pro 4 model. A long time ago I found a NIB 2026 and 2028 online- (I think on Ebay_ and I bought them both/ I had a plan to use the 2028 which never happened so it sat on the shelf. the 2026 has one more media basket on it and it if for bigger tanks than the 2026. So I assumed it had more power. So I asked Google if I could use the 2028 head to replace my leaker on the 2026. The answer was yes but I should lubricate the gasket that seals the head to the body.
But my issue was the gasket on the priming pump button. My questions resulted in the AI coming in it. It said I could use the 2028 head because it was identical to the 2026 head. So I asked if the 3rd basket was why it was sold as working on a bigger tank. The AI said yes. I never knew that there was no power difference.the hoses for both are the same diameter. I never knew it was only the extra basket and thus a taller body that made the difference.
The AI explained the the problem was actually caused by the square gasket and I should lubricate it with the Eheim lubricant I had. It explained the pump button gaskets were a known weak spot and they degraded with time. I normally do not prime the filter, Instead I fill it with water before I put it back to work when I have cleaned it. However, I do lubricate it sometimes JIK and I did so today. Before I returned the head to the boddy, I ws pushing down the button to see if the lubricating made ie easier to push and come back up. and was pushing the button. It was slow to come back up and toward the end it was making a squeaking noise. I explained this to the AI.
I waas told it mean the button gasket was likely dried out and worn out. But the cause of the leak was actually the square main gasket between the head and the body. I said I had a spare gasket on the shelp for some time. I also told the AI I did not use the priming button but filled the filter with ater and did not need to prime. What it told ne was if I just swapped the unused 2028 head onto the body it was the better solution since it had never been used.
I did not know about the fact the heads on the two models were the same. i had another use 2026 which became unused when I started my downsizing tanks. The AI said I was better of with the new head from the 2028 than replacing the head gasket only on the 2026 or trying to replace the button gasket which requires taking the head apart. that is because it has 3 spring which causes the button to go back up when it is pushed down. One has to take steps when unscrewing the assembly at the bottom of the head or it will throw the button cover off and shoot the springs out.
I could have bought and off brand gasket to fit the button for a few bucks or I could use the new head on the never used 2028. I am opting for that solution. But it is late and I am tired from working all day. The tank is heavily planted and also has an Aquaclear 70 on it. Plus last night I added a decent sized air disk to the tank for more surfac agitation. Tomorrow I will swap in the 2028 head and pre-lubricate, the squared gasket with the Ehwim lubricant.
I asctually have another used 2026 but that would mean putting a well used head on the 2026 instead of the unused one from the 2028. I also considered one other possible solution. I have another running 2026 on my 125. It also has an AV 110 on it and a couple of H.O.T.magnums with w micron carts. I figured i could remove that 2026, and take out the baskets and the put the NIB 208 on the tank and put those 2 baskets into it and the load the third basket with new media, Then I could move the 2028 for the 125 to the 75 and put into it the two baskets from the leaking 125.
But the advice from the AI to put the 2028 head onto the current 2026 to fix the leak makes the most sense. It is unused and means it should last longer than I will. The leaking 2026 was my first Eheim canister and has been running for over 20 years. It used to be on my high tech planted 50 and I pushed the pressurized co2 directly into the the intake. It is why I chose an Eheim canister as I figured it was most likely to be able to handle gas bubbles going into it.
I never would have considered just putting the new 2028 head onto the leaking 2026 if not for my conversation with the Google AI. As far as I am concerned it s=taught me and it also saved me, it will take me about 20 minutes maybe a half hour tomorrow when I am less tired to do the swap. I had always believed the 2028 was more powerful and it is only that is has more media space that makes it good for a bigger than than the 2026.
I have pulled up all of the 1 sq. foot hardwood tiles and will put self sticking thin vinyl tiles where I removed the wood ones. I cannot leave the concrete floor exposed. I had to remove the wood ones as I had two drawers that pull out which would be blocked buy the buckling wood tiles. So everything is not all good but, at least the tank will be OK and the cost for the 2028 was years ago and it is good for spare parts.
At least my pulled molar has not hurt today.
(WOW a ton of typos and spelling fixed. I was tired when I typed this last night. Sorry about that)
I took the filter off of the tank last evening and today I spent a lot of time cleaning it. I returned it to the tank and saw no leak the first couple of hours. I figured I had fixed it/ I was wrong and the floor started to flood again. The water was pooling in the well where the plug goes into the head with all the pumping. I went onto google and asked about a leaking Pro 2 2026. It had three common leaks and one specified the leaking was from that well. The leaking is caused by the gasket related to the priming button. The cheapest I could find an Eheim replacement for was almost $50. So I went back to Google and ended up talking to the AI.
Many years ago when Eheim stopped making the Pro 2. I think they are now up to the Pro 4 model. A long time ago I found a NIB 2026 and 2028 online- (I think on Ebay_ and I bought them both/ I had a plan to use the 2028 which never happened so it sat on the shelf. the 2026 has one more media basket on it and it if for bigger tanks than the 2026. So I assumed it had more power. So I asked Google if I could use the 2028 head to replace my leaker on the 2026. The answer was yes but I should lubricate the gasket that seals the head to the body.
But my issue was the gasket on the priming pump button. My questions resulted in the AI coming in it. It said I could use the 2028 head because it was identical to the 2026 head. So I asked if the 3rd basket was why it was sold as working on a bigger tank. The AI said yes. I never knew that there was no power difference.the hoses for both are the same diameter. I never knew it was only the extra basket and thus a taller body that made the difference.
The AI explained the the problem was actually caused by the square gasket and I should lubricate it with the Eheim lubricant I had. It explained the pump button gaskets were a known weak spot and they degraded with time. I normally do not prime the filter, Instead I fill it with water before I put it back to work when I have cleaned it. However, I do lubricate it sometimes JIK and I did so today. Before I returned the head to the boddy, I ws pushing down the button to see if the lubricating made ie easier to push and come back up. and was pushing the button. It was slow to come back up and toward the end it was making a squeaking noise. I explained this to the AI.
I waas told it mean the button gasket was likely dried out and worn out. But the cause of the leak was actually the square main gasket between the head and the body. I said I had a spare gasket on the shelp for some time. I also told the AI I did not use the priming button but filled the filter with ater and did not need to prime. What it told ne was if I just swapped the unused 2028 head onto the body it was the better solution since it had never been used.
I did not know about the fact the heads on the two models were the same. i had another use 2026 which became unused when I started my downsizing tanks. The AI said I was better of with the new head from the 2028 than replacing the head gasket only on the 2026 or trying to replace the button gasket which requires taking the head apart. that is because it has 3 spring which causes the button to go back up when it is pushed down. One has to take steps when unscrewing the assembly at the bottom of the head or it will throw the button cover off and shoot the springs out.
I could have bought and off brand gasket to fit the button for a few bucks or I could use the new head on the never used 2028. I am opting for that solution. But it is late and I am tired from working all day. The tank is heavily planted and also has an Aquaclear 70 on it. Plus last night I added a decent sized air disk to the tank for more surfac agitation. Tomorrow I will swap in the 2028 head and pre-lubricate, the squared gasket with the Ehwim lubricant.
I asctually have another used 2026 but that would mean putting a well used head on the 2026 instead of the unused one from the 2028. I also considered one other possible solution. I have another running 2026 on my 125. It also has an AV 110 on it and a couple of H.O.T.magnums with w micron carts. I figured i could remove that 2026, and take out the baskets and the put the NIB 208 on the tank and put those 2 baskets into it and the load the third basket with new media, Then I could move the 2028 for the 125 to the 75 and put into it the two baskets from the leaking 125.
But the advice from the AI to put the 2028 head onto the current 2026 to fix the leak makes the most sense. It is unused and means it should last longer than I will. The leaking 2026 was my first Eheim canister and has been running for over 20 years. It used to be on my high tech planted 50 and I pushed the pressurized co2 directly into the the intake. It is why I chose an Eheim canister as I figured it was most likely to be able to handle gas bubbles going into it.
I never would have considered just putting the new 2028 head onto the leaking 2026 if not for my conversation with the Google AI. As far as I am concerned it s=taught me and it also saved me, it will take me about 20 minutes maybe a half hour tomorrow when I am less tired to do the swap. I had always believed the 2028 was more powerful and it is only that is has more media space that makes it good for a bigger than than the 2026.
I have pulled up all of the 1 sq. foot hardwood tiles and will put self sticking thin vinyl tiles where I removed the wood ones. I cannot leave the concrete floor exposed. I had to remove the wood ones as I had two drawers that pull out which would be blocked buy the buckling wood tiles. So everything is not all good but, at least the tank will be OK and the cost for the 2028 was years ago and it is good for spare parts.
At least my pulled molar has not hurt today.
(WOW a ton of typos and spelling fixed. I was tired when I typed this last night. Sorry about that)
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