Safe Nitrate For Cherry Shrimp (Bga Issue)

[ron4sum1]

Hello,

I've recently performed a four day blackout in order to remove the blue-green algae that has been residing in my tank for months! Anyways, after the blackout, all the BGA appeared 'stringy' and I assumed dead. I tried to vacuum as much as I can but there are still left-overs because I have a high plant biomass.

Anyways, after a week, I noticed that some 'supposedly dead' BGA began spreading bit by bit! My nitrate is 5ppm measured using the API master test kit. I've been reading around, and the main causes are poor aeration, low nitrate and overfeeding. I feed my fish a very very small amount, and my water circulation is fine. So, perhaps it's the nitrate!

So, how much nitrate (ppm) should I add in my aquarium that is safe for my cherry shrimps? I can't get a definite answer from other forums as they don't take into account the shrimps.

Thanks for taking your time reading my query!

Edit: Can I use any brand of Potassium Nitrate? Such as this: http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POTASSIUM-NITRATE-FOOD-GRADE-SALTPETER-99-8-TOP-GRADE-/271149139938?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3f21bf87e2

 

[thereverendturtle]

Low NItrate as a cause is new to me. Anyway, shrimp should have Nitrate levels below 20ppm to be at their best. Also follow the instructions on the nitrate test kit exactly. If you don't readings of 5ppm or less are the usual results. Add 10 drops of #1 shake. Shake bottle #2 for at least 30 seconds, then add 10 drops and shake the vial for one minute. See if that changes anything.

 

[DrSlackBladder]

+1 on shaking the second nitrate API test bottle VERY well; makes a huge difference when the sediment on the bottom of the bottle is shaken well, and you leave the tube for the suggested 5 mins for the colour to develop.  Makes a huge difference and gives a higher (more accurate) ppm reading.  I have four large Amano shrimp which have been doing well since October, very active, shedding skin regularly, not shy/hiding.  I keep my nitrate around 10-20ppm.

 

[ron4sum1]

Low NItrate as a cause is new to me. Anyway, shrimp should have Nitrate levels below 20ppm to be at their best. Also follow the instructions on the nitrate test kit exactly. If you don't readings of 5ppm or less are the usual results. Add 10 drops of #1 shake. Shake bottle #2 for at least 30 seconds, then add 10 drops and shake the vial for one minute. See if that changes anything.

Thanks for the reply!

Based on most forums I've encountered, they said that cyanobacteria can 'fix' their own oxygen meaning that they can manufacture their own nitrate. So, the low nitrate concentration limits the plants' growth so the excess nutrients will be utilised instead by the bacteria, since plants are not absorbing them. It's really interesting

Yea, apparently, the API test kit for nitrate is not that accurate until you shake it vigorously for two minutes. I tried it without shaking, and when I shook it for 2 minutes, it actually shows that my aquarium has 5ppm of nitrate, whereas if I didn't shake it, it shows 0 nitrate!
 
 

+1 on shaking the second nitrate API test bottle VERY well; makes a huge difference when the sediment on the bottom of the bottle is shaken well, and you leave the tube for the suggested 5 mins for the colour to develop.  Makes a huge difference and gives a higher (more accurate) ppm reading.  I have four large Amano shrimp which have been doing well since October, very active, shedding skin regularly, not shy/hiding.  I keep my nitrate around 10-20ppm.

Brilliant! I was just wondering at first why mine were always zero nitrate! I think I'll try 15-20ppm of Nitrate.. hopefully, that will kill those annoying slimy BGA!

Anyways, is 20ppm the maximum? What do others think

?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm
 
This is my "go to" site for any type of algae.  They state:
 
 
Cause:

Often caused by very low nitrates. It is fairly common to have it growing in the substrate against the front glass from where it can spread. Sometimes it appears with new setups that have had light and ammonia present at some point. Dirty substrates and filters may also bring it on. Poor water circulation is another possible cause.   

 
Removal recommendations:

A blackout is the best method for this. Clean out as much of the algae as you can and do a 30 to 50% water change. If your nitrates are low then add some potassium nitrate to get levels to 20ppm. Remove CO2 and add an airstone. Turn off lights and cover the whole tank so no light can enter. Leave it for 3 to 4 days. No peeking and no feeding - fish will be fine without food for this period. After 3 to 4 days remove the covers and do a 30 - 50% water change. Remove airstone and start CO2. You will need to dose nitrates to keep them dropping too low again. Make sure your substrate and filter doesn't become too clogged up with mulm and also make sure you have good water circulation around the whole tank.
Another option is to treat with Maracyn which is an anti-biotic. Seems to work well but may affect the biological filter. In the UK it is illegal to purchase Maracyn without first getting a prescription for it from a vet.
If the BGA is originating from the substrate place some dark tape on the glass to hide the substrate from direct light.

 

[ron4sum1]

http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

This is my "go to" site for any type of algae. They state:


Cause:

Often caused by very low nitrates. It is fairly common to have it growing in the substrate against the front glass from where it can spread. Sometimes it appears with new setups that have had light and ammonia present at some point. Dirty substrates and filters may also bring it on. Poor water circulation is another possible cause.

Removal recommendations:
A blackout is the best method for this. Clean out as much of the algae as you can and do a 30 to 50% water change. If your nitrates are low then add some potassium nitrate to get levels to 20ppm. Remove CO2 and add an airstone. Turn off lights and cover the whole tank so no light can enter. Leave it for 3 to 4 days. No peeking and no feeding - fish will be fine without food for this period. After 3 to 4 days remove the covers and do a 30 - 50% water change. Remove airstone and start CO2. You will need to dose nitrates to keep them dropping too low again. Make sure your substrate and filter doesn't become too clogged up with mulm and also make sure you have good water circulation around the whole tank.
Another option is to treat with Maracyn which is an anti-biotic. Seems to work well but may affect the biological filter. In the UK it is illegal to purchase Maracyn without first getting a prescription for it from a vet.
If the BGA is originating from the substrate place some dark tape on the glass to hide the substrate from direct light.

Thanks for the reply! I have actually read this article, and it is very informative! I only hoped it was possible to get maracyn in UK!