Even if you have zero for ammonia, nitrites & nitrates in a cycled tank the fish are still producing waste, as you are feeding them. This can increase your hardness & total dissolved solids. Fish waste, by it's very nature, is acidic, and will tend to drop your pH. Nitrifying bacteria work less efficiently in an environment with lower pH. Ammonia is more toxic at higher pH levels.
So you finally get around to doing a water change after quite a length of time, your very lightly stocked tank has a nitrate reading of 10, so you figure it's time. Your tank water is now harder, and has a lower pH than your tap water. The change in hardness has more of an effect than the pH change for fish, if you take having to maintain an osmotic equilibrium into account. The pH change, and the water you are using to replace it which has a good chance of being treated with chloramine, does a number on your nitrifying bacteria, overloading it. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine & ammonia, a good dechlorinator changes this ammonia to ammonium, which is harmless to fish, but used the same as ammonia by your nitrifying bacteria.
But wait, your fish are still producing ammonia as well, the nitrifying bacteria is trying to deal with the ammonium, along with the normal amount of ammonia produced by the fish. The pH is higher, the ammonia more toxic. Houston, we have a problem. This problem is often called Old Tank Syndrome, which is most often associated with a very high nitrate level, in a neglected or very overstocked tank, but can occur in a less drastic form in a tank that is understocked.
The only way to get around this is with very heavy planting & very light stocking, look into the methods used by Diane Walstad if you are interested in this technique. Water changes are still employed to the best of my knowledge, but much less frequently.