Ph Issues

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I got the numbers on the GH/KH  .  
 
Out of the tap the GH is 1 to 3,  I say this because it immediately turned light green, never did look orange, and I added 2 more drops after the first one and it staryed light green.
 
The KH is 6 or 7, the color was bright yellow at 6 but it got a bit brighter at 7.     So I guess I will say GH = 3 and KH = 7
 
The water guy did adjust the PH at the water department because now instead of being as dark as my API chart will go out of the tap, which was 8.8, so no telling how high it might have really been, it is now 7.8...straight out of the tap.  And when I test my tank it reads 7.8 as well. So that is now stable I suppose.
 
julielynn47 said:
I got the numbers on the GH/KH  .  
 
Out of the tap the GH is 1 to 3,  I say this because it immediately turned light green, never did look orange, and I added 2 more drops after the first one and it staryed light green.
 
The KH is 6 or 7, the color was bright yellow at 6 but it got a bit brighter at 7.     So I guess I will say GH = 3 and KH = 7
 
The water guy did adjust the PH at the water department because now instead of being as dark as my API chart will go out of the tap, which was 8.8, so no telling how high it might have really been, it is now 7.8...straight out of the tap.  And when I test my tank it reads 7.8 as well. So that is now stable I suppose.
 
Assuming you are using the API liquid test (from the colours mentioned it appears so), the GH may be near zero if thed colour begins with the first drop to be greenish.  The orange would be obvious otherwise.  But there is always the chance of a faulty test, either the kit regents or the testing.  I do wish you could get these numbers from the water authority, it would confirm we are on the right track.
 
When testing pH of the tap water, remember you need to ensure any dissolved CO2 is out-gassed or it can affect the reading.  Shake a small amount of fresh tap water very briskly for a few minutes before testing it, or let it sit out for 24 hours.
 

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