Not So New 65g (uk) Reef+ 10g Sump And New 30g Fuge

[SkiFletch]

Looks great, did you make the whole controller yourself, or did you buy it?

Also, that torch looks mighty familiar, I might have to check mine for chisel marks when I get home

 

[James B]

you should see the new elagence frag he picked up while he was there

 

[Matthew5664]

Right!

Spent the day on the tank go the MH'd in and working along with the temp controler top-off, doors on hinges timers for lights and two new fish.

MH's in the hood! I know I know I'm mad but i like them this way and the missis didn't want this hanging from the roof.

Temp controlers in and working.

Timers in for the lights.

Got one just Like Ski's *Ski's looking for his right now i bet*

This is the new Eyuphillia its pink and green the pic dosn't show very well

Down the tank, it's my new fav view! Did have to buy another cleaning mag for it tho

And one of the new inmates. Would someone like to tell everyone what it is? (Common UK and US name Latin if your feeling cocky)

The other new fish is a sunspot goby but he's too shy atm to get a pic. Well hope you like the tank. Loys more to do but it's nearly there!

 

[James B]

loving it Matt an inspiration to us all

 

[N1z]

O,oOoOo i think i know! Vampire Tang, similar to the orange shoulder tang! Very elegant tang, i had one once for a while but took her back cos she kept going up in the corner for air, strange it was... plus she was gunna get to big.

Part from that very nice! How much were the MH? they look like the 50 quid ones? Excellent job is they are..

 

[bobf]

Looking great so far Matt!

I'd be interested to hear a bit more on the MHs too - cost has put me off until now, but maybe there is a way?

One other thing that bothered me is that access to additional power sockets isn't easy and at the moment all my tank gear goes through a power strip connected to one socket.

I think I read somewhere that MHs have a big amp demand when they start up and for that reason they should be on a separate power supply and started using industrial timers as 'consumer' timers can get melted?

I think this point has been acknowledged on here before (ski?), but is it really one of those "... it is possible to..." type debates or is it a real concern?

 

[SkiFletch]

Gonna have to disagree on the Tang ID there. Looks like a "Lieutenant Tang" latin name Acanthurus tennenti cause I'm feeling spunky .

At the risk of stealing Matts thunder, a 250watt halide will consume about 1.3amps (UK) while running. I have no idea what your circuits are rated for, but if it can handle that, you're OK. I've measured my 175w (electronic ballast) on startup and I've never seen a current spike above 3amps (US) 1.5amps (UK). Even when it does spike to 3A, its only for a millisecond. I'm sure there may be a higher spike that my meter cannot read fast enough, but thats not the kind of thing thats gonna blow a circuit. Remember, these bulbs fire on a high Voltage, not Amperage. A ballast ramps the voltage up well over 600V and throws it at the bulb all at once. Once the bulb is burning, the voltage drops back down to regular wall voltage (110US 220UK). The current flows into the ballast when its given juice and then the ballast ramps up the voltage to do the firing, not the current. I dont mean to insinuate that these are low-current devices, but chances are unless you're going over dual 250's, you're probably safe.

And a quick edit, that tang would cost about $100 here in the US, what did it run you matt?

 

[Matthew5664]

Ski your right about the MH but you knew that already, I have 15A fuses in the powerbars and 5A in the MH's plugs. I also have then staggered on and off as there a 1 hour gap between the T5's and the MH's and a 10min gap between the MH's. All this in on a 15A ring main from the fuse box down stairs.

The Tang is both> in the UK its knowen as a Vampire Tang in the US a Lieutenant Tang both are 'Acanthurus tennenti'

Ski you gona kick yourself I got it for £26.99 = $52.90

 

[N1z]

Lol, fine i get the complimenty prize of a picnic hamper . Lovely fish thgh do you find its looks a bit bluey under actinitcs only? i did well mainly on the fins.

 

[Matthew5664]

*Hamper on its way*

Yep! bright blue on the tips of the fins gray pastel body but goes black when angry. When he first went in the rest of them were testing him and the wrasse took a peck he went jet black and chased the wrasse for about 15-20 mins. Saft to say theres a new sheriff in town!

 

[SkiFletch]

*Hamper on its way*

Yep! bright blue on the tips of the fins gray pastel body but goes black when angry. When he first went in the rest of them were testing him and the wrasse took a peck he went jet black and chased the wrasse for about 15-20 mins. Saft to say theres a new sheriff in town!

Lol, nie . Its ok, I'm not kicking myself too hard, our corals are way cheaper than yours

 

[Matthew5664]

Right after near-on a week of skimming I'm not happy with the ammount of skimmate.... so.........

A new venturi is in order bigger better and BEFORE THE PUMP!!!

Thinking about tapping a female screwthred into the body of the veturi housing to give a spin on the water?

 

[SkiFletch]

Perhaps, although the area just in front of a pump inlet on a typical centrifugal pump is exceptionally turbulent allready. I'd look more into spending my time adding a needle valve just before the inlet to restrict water flow and encourage air flow (valve --> Venturi --> Inlet). The pump does however have a maximum amount of air it can aspirate before it looses suction, so be ready for that... Too much air and the impeller will spin freely and just release big bubbles instead of microbubbles.

If you really want to increase bubble formation and decrease bubble size you need to have a needlewheel or meshwheel impeller to finely chop up the bubbles. Thats what makes a skimmer like an ASM or Euroreef so good, the needlewheel impeller

 

[Matthew5664]

Ok follow my trail of thought if you can.

1) Get the impeller out of the housing
2) File down the back of the blades
3) Mill a thin disk of acrylic to fit
4) Stick disk on
5) File down front of blades
6) Stick alot of corse acrylic swarf on between the smaller blades
7) Reset in housing after drying
8) Let the bad-boy ripp!!!!!!

 

[SkiFletch]

Ok follow my trail of thought if you can.

1) Get the impeller out of the housing
2) File down the back of the blades
3) Mill a thin disk of acrylic to fit
4) Stick disk on
5) File down front of blades
6) Stick alot of corse acrylic swarf on between the smaller blades
7) Reset in housing after drying
8) Let the bad-boy ripp!!!!!!

Right idea, wrong materials. Acrylic meshwheels will NOT stand up to the forces on the impeller. You need to concentrate on either stainless steel (PITA to work with) or carbon fiber mesh. Also it needs to be well centered/balanced or it might rip itself to pieces.