New to the forum but not altogther new to fish keeping.

Hopefully the above post is a typo. You do have high pH so that is the only test you need to do. pH is a single value - there is no high and low (just different reagents to read different ranges) so your initial assumption was correct and your pH is 8.2. (FWIW this is what I expected with your location).

Have you read this link? It is probably your best bet as with the cycled media you have already added the process should go a lot quicker than the article suggests. That will allow you to add all of your proposed stock at once - after your ammonia and nitrites have stabilised at 0. The beneficial bacteria do need food (ammonia) to establish and thrive. As you have no fish now your water will show as "safe", but without enough of the necessary bacteria probably won't stay that way once you add fish. The method, as described, is designed to build up sufficient bacteria to allow you to fully stock your tank once the cycle is complete.
 
Thanks again Pheonix,

The temp has not stabilised, It's currently 25.3 but seeems to go up and down some.
 
Hopefully the above post is a typo. You do have high pH so that is the only test you need to do. pH is a single value - there is no high and low (just different reagents to read different ranges) so your initial assumption was correct and your pH is 8.2. (FWIW this is what I expected with your location).

Have you read this link? It is probably your best bet as with the cycled media you have already added the process should go a lot quicker than the article suggests. That will allow you to add all of your proposed stock at once - after your ammonia and nitrites have stabilised at 0. The beneficial bacteria do need food (ammonia) to establish and thrive. As you have no fish now your water will show as "safe", but without enough of the necessary bacteria probably won't stay that way once you add fish. The method, as described, is designed to build up sufficient bacteria to allow you to fully stock your tank once the cycle is complete.
Yes I have read that Seangee
 
Your post. PH was reading off the top of the standard scale and 8.2 on the high scale.
In the API Master test kit, they have a pH test and a high pH test. I have only used the regular pH test, because I know I don't have high pH.

I though the regular pH test was the only one that mattered? Or was I mistaken?
 
In the API Master test kit, they have a pH test and a high pH test. I have only used the regular pH test, because I know I don't have high pH.

I though the regular pH test was the only one that mattered? Or was I mistaken?
For you its the only one that matters because you have a low pH. For Alan, or anyone who has a high pH, the high pH test is the only one that matters.
 
For you its the only one that matters because you have a low pH. For Alan, or anyone who has a high pH, the high pH test is the only one that matters.
Ok, thank you for clearing that up. :)
 
Nothing. You have hard water don't you? If that's right, most fish which need hard water also prefer high pH.

Do I need to do all the tests to my tap water ?
Test your tap water for nitrate. You need to subtract that from your tank nitrate to see how much nitrate is being made in the tank. It will also tell you the lowest level your tank water can ever get by just water changes.



Re the pH testers - like most testers if the value is off the top (or bottom) of the scale the tester still will read as the highest (or lowest) colour. If the pH tester shows the highest colour, use the high pH tester to check if the pH is really higher than the maximum on the pH tester. (If the high range tester shows the lowest colour, the pH is in the overlap)
 

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