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Tongue_Flicker
Fish Herder
Hey luis welcome aboard!
Luis_Gil said:
It can be confusing.The answer is simple: Let the tests tell you what to do.
Test one: ammonia.
Test two: nitrite.
If ammonia is too high - then water change to lower it.
If nitrite is too high - you have two options, either change water or add salt.
Its a bit of a logic puzzle.
If A then B. If C then D. You will understand by the end of it.
This calculator can help you. http
/www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.phpThe free ammonia (NH3) must stay under 0.02 mg/L. That's where the value gets toxic to the fish. BUT, the ammonia test you are using measures BOTH NH3 and NH4. And the percentage of NH3 compared to NH4 is based on pH and temperature. Use that calculator to keep an eye on the NH3 number. If its getting close to 0.02mg/L, do a water change to lower it.
For example, if you have 1ppm ammonia on the test kit, with 7.0 pH and 27 degrees Celsius, the TOXIC NH3 would only be 0.0067mg/L, which means that its not toxic. So, a water change isn't NEEDED, but doing one is ok.
As for nitrite, it can be a bit more complicated. But, let me leave it at this for now, nitrite is MORE dangerous than NH3, so if you see 1ppm nitrite, that's a cause for concern. The easy answer is to just change the water. But, even a 50% water change at 1ppm isn't enough. So, the BEST answer is to add salt. (Your fish can handle it.) Adding the salt allows the fish to stay in the water and not take the nitrite into their blood. Nitrite in their blood stops their ability to get oxygen, and they suffocate. BUT, with salt in the water, the salt stops the nitrite from getting into their blood and the fish can survive in the tank without a problem.
When you reach that point, we'll cross that bridge. In the meantime, relax, enjoy your fish and get ready for some water changes.
A few points:
1 - No need for all tests every day. AMMONIA and NITRITE are going to be needed everyday until they both come back as zero for a full week.
2 - Doing a weekly pH check is a good idea just to ensure that you have the correct value for your ammonia test (and calculation).
On another note, adding a few real plants NOW will actually help your cycling process and keep the ammonia/nitrite levels lower and more helpful for the fish. If you can find amazon frogbit, this is a floating plant and will grab a fair amount of the ammonia, and eventually nitrate eventually. But, there are plenty of other options. Water wisteria, hornwort, duckweed, etc. Lots of options. The plants will add some bacteria and use the ammonia as well, so its a great benefit to the process... SO, if you can afford the plants and get them now, it would be better.
1 - No need for all tests every day. AMMONIA and NITRITE are going to be needed everyday until they both come back as zero for a full week.
2 - Doing a weekly pH check is a good idea just to ensure that you have the correct value for your ammonia test (and calculation).
On another note, adding a few real plants NOW will actually help your cycling process and keep the ammonia/nitrite levels lower and more helpful for the fish. If you can find amazon frogbit, this is a floating plant and will grab a fair amount of the ammonia, and eventually nitrate eventually. But, there are plenty of other options. Water wisteria, hornwort, duckweed, etc. Lots of options. The plants will add some bacteria and use the ammonia as well, so its a great benefit to the process... SO, if you can afford the plants and get them now, it would be better.
AFTER its completely cycled, a group of corydoras - pandas (as they are smaller) would be ok in that tank.
But, that would pretty much be max capacity... and no additional fish can be added until the tank completely cycles, or else you will have lots of deaths.
But, that would pretty much be max capacity... and no additional fish can be added until the tank completely cycles, or else you will have lots of deaths.
It could mean a few things... Over feeding, or some other sort of bloating. I'd starve the tank for about 3 days and see if the swelling goes down.
As mentioned before ammonia can lead to secondary issues for the fish, so you want to keep it as low as possible.
As mentioned before ammonia can lead to secondary issues for the fish, so you want to keep it as low as possible.
Welcome! A good Water Change tip is to get a bucket dedicated to water changes. A day before you change the water fill the bucket, add DE Chlorinator and let it sit near the tank so it's the same temp or at least at the room temperature. Just remember to add the DE Chlorinator!!! You can cover it up too if you don't want dust/random stuff falling into it.
rodoselada
Mostly New Member
remove everything that plastic decor, massive planting plants with low light and nutrient needs
Sorry for my English
Regards
Dorin
Sorry for my English
Regards
Dorin
It might just be a 'piggish' little neon. But, it still could be a more serious issue. Fasting the tank will start to illuminate which it is.
But, it still could be a more serious issue. Fasting the tank will start to illuminate which it is.Most reactions
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