My new honey gourami is not eating, what should I do?

Thank you for the reply (I don't want to discourage any, ever), but API instructions for their product suggest raising the temperature to 82F which agrees with the video guy (who has a master degree in microbiology). I'm raising the temperature.

What I'm finding is there is a lot of disagreement around these topics, there is no "this is the way" type answer, so I go with the 80% consensus, and realize I can't tell if that's correct or not, but I have to go with something. I appreciate the response, though.
 
The risk with using heat and meds is a) both stress the fish so double the stress and b) both heat and meds lower the oxygen content of water.
 
I understand, and thanks again. But with both a UGF and HOB oxygenation is no concern to me. With all this stuff there are a couple ways to go, even a noob has to choose one after looking at all the alternatives. Thanks for the reply!
 
Well unfortunately I lost the gourami! That was fast. The guppies are all looking perfectly normal. He was dead in the bottom this morning.

Ammonia and nitrites are zero I got him out fast then tested. Hammers home the value of a quarantine tank. I’ll set one up before getting another fish.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the reply (I don't want to discourage any, ever), but API instructions for their product suggest raising the temperature to 82F which agrees with the video guy (who has a master degree in microbiology). I'm raising the temperature.

What I'm finding is there is a lot of disagreement around these topics, there is no "this is the way" type answer, so I go with the 80% consensus, and realize I can't tell if that's correct or not, but I have to go with something. I appreciate the response, though.
@Essjay has already explained the reasons why using both could kill your fish.

You may choose to listen to a video influencer over us, but we are not running a business selling you aquarium products nor are we sponsored by the product companies.

For others reading this, you can save your money and your fish by choosing one treatment. My preference is heat (NOT the 82 quoted in this thread, 86 is better).
 
...

You may choose to listen to a video influencer over us, but we are not running a business selling you aquarium products nor are we sponsored by the product companies.

For others reading this, you can save your money and your fish by choosing one treatment. My preference is heat (NOT the 82 quoted in this thread, 86 is better).


You guys are sometimes a bit much, you know that? The API instructions suggest doing both. See here:

While it is well-known that water holds less oxygen at higher temperatures, my running both a UGF and an HOB with only 6 guppies in a 10 gallon tank (even if the juvenile gourami were still with us) eliminates all concern about low oxygenation. If you look up guppies, they are fine in 64-84F water. The honey gourami is fine 72-82F, so 82F recommended by API is not excessive. The fish should not be heat stressed, and oxygenation in my particular case is not problematic.

Most people I see online, like Cory from Aquarium Co-op, say, "This is my way, it's not the way, there are other ways to do things. People can agree to disagree, and also several avenues can be effective." A lot of folks around here are a bit too dogmatic, IMO. Your comment above falls into that category. @Naughts I consider you the equivalent of an Internet influencer. The guy in the video I quoted is in the aquarium fish business, has a microbiology masters degree, and teaches fish courses at a local college. Your comment about his being sponsored by the product companies was flat out ridiculous. He was not sponsored by the company making the product he uses, and he made that clear. I'll take his advice over yours any day of the week. I do realize, of course, there are less informed folks on the Internet, and some are sponsored by product companies. He was not in that category.

I like coming here for education, and I appreciate the wide range of information, and the flexibility many of the people here exhibit. I like the collaborative approach I see in many threads, where several experienced members go back and forth over several methods. But after your comment I did more research, and you won't find any veterinary medicine or university paper suggesting not raising the temperature while using a medication (although I'm quite sure it's common advice on forums). They caution against overdoing it, to be sure, but I'm within the natural temperature range of my fish, I'm going no higher. You're probably repeating advice heard on fish forums, if you find a study saying what I'm doing is wrong or dangerous, post the link, I'll eat some crow.

There is another member here who I appreciate immensely because of his wealth of knowledge but he's constantly harping that this site or that site or that forum is 90% wrong, discount everything you read there. That's also ridiculous. I've learned enough to recognize some misinformation on other sites already. Partly from learning here, partly from my own research, but I see some misinformation at some sites, and a lot of good stuff, too, I'm not going to toss the baby with the bath water. And while he's knowledgeable, he's insistent you have to use a specific brand of foam (which is admittedly the best), and you have to use 10-20-30 PPI progression and NO MORE or you'll clog the finer foam immediately. That's just nuts. I have 6-7 small fish in a tank with a UGF and HOB filter, which has a 20 PPI prefilter on the intake followed by a full five inches of 30 PPI foam topped by a 1/2" thick piece of 40 PPI foam for water polishing. That polishing pad won't likely clog in a month of Sundays in my tank, but I clean it monthly regardless.

1. There are lots of different effective ways to do things in this hobby.
2. There are a lot of very experienced people on this forum, but ...
2a. They do not have the only "revealed truth" and,
2b There is lots of competing information out there which I think is too quickly discounted here

I love this place, and sorry for the rant. But after a couple months here it's been my observation that although there a lot of folks who suggest different ways, and acknowledge that there are different ways, and suggest I consider this or that or correct me when I'm flat out wrong. And there are also a few who are a bit too full of themselves and very dismissive of every other source of information. That's kind of aggravating, they should lighten up a little.

[/rant] I'm probably upset over losing my fish, and now setting up a quarantine tank. Thanks to all who posted thoughts.
 
follow up comment. @Essjay was adding context you could have added to your first post. You flat out stated use temperature or meds, but not both, without justification. Essjay provided the reasoning you left out. I appreciated that. You should have added that to your first comment. Essjay also did not say don't follow API's instructions, he was giving me information to digest. I like that. He did not say I should not do it. I could infer he might not want to do it. But that's fine.

I am quite confident you will not find a veterinary or university source which contradicts API's instructions. Because I searched for it mightily. Thanks, Essjay!

Just checked the tank and it is as 81F, I'll stop there. Went from my normal 78F to 81F, that's likely enough. Guppies look fantastic, very active, great appetite (as usual) zooming all over the place, no flashing, no sign of ich, I guess it was just the poor gourami who got it. I know it's in the tank, but I'll do the second dose tomorrow (Monday), and if still no signs on Wednesday, I'll do a 50% water change and drop the carbon in there. After that, I'll inch the temperature back down to 78F over two days.
 
Last edited:
Well, what I should have done in the first place. I was hoping not to have to set up a quarantine tank, but that was foolish. Especially if I get MTD (likely). With more than one tank and more fish, quarantine is imperative.

A little research indicated a bare bottom tank, this one is a 5.5 gallon (20L) with glass lid, has a Fluval M50 heater, and a fine pore sponge filter sized for a 20 powered by a Tetra Whisper air pump for a 10. And a couple of silk plants and a hidey hole for comfort in the new fish motel.

IMG_9246.webp
 
The reason for rasing the temperature when treating for ICh is because of the life cycle for Ich. The warmer the water, the faster the life cycle. For the most part Ich meds can only work during one of the life cycle stages. The faster the life cycle moves, the faster the right meds will work.

Fish do not need a specific temperature, they need to be withing a specific range. Most fish can handle being a bit out of their range by a few degrees for a few days.

I do not trust Youtube or most of what Google spits out on this topic. What I do trust is the science one this subject. I rely on Google Scjhlar for good information as it only searches the scientific literature and ignores all the other junk out on the net.

So here is what I suggest you do, have a read here from the Univ. of Florida which has pretty good info:
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish

You will get better info on Ich from the above than anything you have posted in this thread. Another of my go to sources for fish diseases is the Merck Veterinary Manual. This offers info directed at two different audiences: Veterinary Professionals and Pet Owners. I tend to read both of these. Take a look here for links to both of these. You can click to get to either article on the line for Top Results: https://www.merckvetmanual.com/sear...s multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish
 
I actually read the source you linked at the University of Florida link. The Merck link is interesting. I did not post anything that contradicts what you say above, but thanks for posting.

New guy in QT tank is looking good on day 3. Looks more relaxed, fins displayed well, doesn't get spooked when he sees me. Display tank is using carbon now to clean out the meds.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top