My first TFT

[loachy]

We are now on day three of our first aquarium, unfortunately it hasn't been done properly. DO NOT READ ON IF FISH DEATH UPSETS YOU.

DAY1: Bought 15 gallon tank setup and five neon tetras (now realise this was a bad idea) Setup tank, added dechlorinated water, put fish in.

DAY2: Found this site, tried to convince LFS to take back neons; no chance!!!!!!
Went to different fish shop bought plants, bogwood (soaked before placing in tank) and five danios: 2 leopard, 3 zebra. Neons still alive water v. murky.

DAY3: Came home from work. Leopard danio dead , another leopard and one zebra looking v. ill just above the gravel. Neons still alive and v. active. Water has cleared

I thought danios were excellent fish for cycling, neons are winning at the moment!!

Here is a picture of the tank as is:



Is it worth getting a water testing kit to see when cycling really gets going?

 

[OohFeeshy]

Yes. Definately. How else will you know?

 

[loachy]

Yes. Definately. How else will you know?

[snapback]916053[/snapback]​

Initially it seemed that if fish are kept in the tank and they stop dying, leave for around 45 days: jobs a good'n.

This is abviously not the case form reading posts i need to look for an ammonia spike and then a decline in the level to a level acceptable for the introduction of less hardy fish.

What kits are recommended (i assume things like PH are worth testing after the cycling process)

Thanks.

 

[JDS]

You'll need test for Ammonia, NitrItes and NitrAtes.
I use ones by API and they seem to be pretty good.
It's generally considered better to get the ones where you put chemicals into a test tube to get colour changes, rather than the dip strips.

 

[loachy]

Another really simple question )

I am feeding with flakes at the mo. How much food is suitable?

I assume that any excess food ends up making the water nasty!!

Thanks.

 

[Fella]

Yes. Definately. How else will you know?

[snapback]916053[/snapback]​

Initially it seemed that if fish are kept in the tank and they stop dying, leave for around 45 days: jobs a good'n.

This is abviously not the case form reading posts i need to look for an ammonia spike and then a decline in the level to a level acceptable for the introduction of less hardy fish.

What kits are recommended (i assume things like PH are worth testing after the cycling process)

Thanks.

[snapback]916062[/snapback]​

Hey, I see you're in oxford. Are you using a major chain LFS? if they refuse to take your fish back, it's very easy to send a quick email to someone in higher power than the shop floor to sort it for you. Sounds cheeky, but when there is a chance of a creature dying...

The aquarium pharmaceuticals test kit is the one to use. Test strips are notoriously in effective, and the kit you want to look out for is this -

Not exactly like that, but roughly.

PH and KH isn't essential for cycling, but are useful to have none the less should you run into problems down the line.

Good Luck

 

[JDS]

Another really simple question )

I am feeding with flakes at the mo. How much food is suitable?

I assume that any excess food ends up making the water nasty!!

Thanks.

[snapback]916097[/snapback]​

As a suggetion, I'd start off feeding once a day.
Let them be eating for maybe 2 minutes, if theres any flake left floating after that, try and scoop it out, so it doesnt linger

 

[spanishguy111]

We are now on day three of our first aquarium, unfortunately it hasn't been done properly. DO NOT READ ON IF FISH DEATH UPSETS YOU.

DAY1: Bought 15 gallon tank setup and five neon tetras (now realise this was a bad idea) Setup tank, added dechlorinated water, put fish in.

DAY2: Found this site, tried to convince LFS to take back neons; no chance!!!!!!
Went to different fish shop bought plants, bogwood (soaked before placing in tank) and five danios: 2 leopard, 3 zebra. Neons still alive water v. murky.

DAY3: Came home from work. Leopard danio dead , another leopard and one zebra looking v. ill just above the gravel. Neons still alive and v. active. Water has cleared

I thought danios were excellent fish for cycling, neons are winning at the moment!!

Here is a picture of the tank as is:



Is it worth getting a water testing kit to see when cycling really gets going?

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

K so... you found out adding a lot of fish at once was bad and that cycling with fish period is bad but that if you do you should use tough fish.

So knowing that your new tank was already overstocked and overdosed with ammonia- you go buy MORE fish?

This is really stupid and I wont be helping you

 

[spanishguy111]

Yes. Definately. How else will you know?

[snapback]916053[/snapback]​

Initially it seemed that if fish are kept in the tank and they stop dying, leave for around 45 days: jobs a good'n.

This is abviously not the case form reading posts i need to look for an ammonia spike and then a decline in the level to a level acceptable for the introduction of less hardy fish.

What kits are recommended (i assume things like PH are worth testing after the cycling process)

Thanks.

[snapback]916062[/snapback]​

Hey, I see you're in oxford. Are you using a major chain LFS? if they refuse to take your fish back, it's very easy to send a quick email to someone in higher power than the shop floor to sort it for you. Sounds cheeky, but when there is a chance of a creature dying...

The aquarium pharmaceuticals test kit is the one to use. Test strips are notoriously in effective, and the kit you want to look out for is this -

Not exactly like that, but roughly.

PH and KH isn't essential for cycling, but are useful to have none the less should you run into problems down the line.

Good Luck

[snapback]916100[/snapback]​

The kit you suggest is ITSELF notoriously innacurate. The best liquid test kit (which is affordable) is the Tetra Laborett (careful the No3 test has cadmium)

All you need at home is a pH test an ammonia test and a nitrite/nitrate test. The rest should be done on higher end tests at a good LFS. Really pH is the only thing I test and my water is tested weekly at an LFS run by a friend on EXPENSIVE tests (like the $300+ stuff)

 

[rdd1952]

The kit you suggest is ITSELF notoriously innacurate. The best liquid test kit (which is affordable) is the Tetra Laborett (careful the No3 test has cadmium)

All you need at home is a pH test an ammonia test and a nitrite/nitrate test. The rest should be done on higher end tests at a good LFS. Really pH is the only thing I test and my water is tested weekly at an LFS run by a friend on EXPENSIVE tests (like the $300+ stuff)

[snapback]916156[/snapback]​

That would be the first I have ever heard of API kits being inaccurate. Can you provide links or data to back that up?

As for needing test kits, every one needs kits to test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH (probably KH too). Once a tank has been running without water problems, then testing can be done less often. I check my pH every week now but probably don't test anything else more than once a month or after I have to change out a filter pack. Regardless of the brand you decide on, DO NOT get strips they are very inaccurate and in the long run more expensive that liquid kits.

 

[rdd1952]

This is really stupid and I wont be helping you

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

I hardly think this is warranted or necessary. Rather than insult someone, just don't reply if you don't like the way they are doing things.

 

[loachy]

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

K so... you found out adding a lot of fish at once was bad and that cycling with fish period is bad but that if you do you should use tough fish.

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

Five fish is not alot.

Cycling with fish is not bad; the jury is still out on fishless/fish cycling.

Period.

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

So knowing that your new tank was already overstocked and overdosed with ammonia- you go buy MORE fish?

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

9 small fish isn't overstocking a 15 gallon tank. As you know you need ammonia to cycle a tank. From the advice i have now been given neons are supposed to be too fragile to even start a tank cycling, thats why danios have been introduced.

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

This is really stupid and I wont be helping you

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

Why the smile?

 

[rdd1952]

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

This is really stupid and I wont be helping you

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

Why the smile?

[snapback]916170[/snapback]​

Just ignore spanishguy. He seems to have a problem communicating.

 

[loachy]

Ok,

Thanks for (most) of the replies.

I will have a look for a testing kit on the weekend and record my results throughout the cycling process; no doubt it could be usefull for other newbies in the future.

Thanks again.

 

[spanishguy111]

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

K so... you found out adding a lot of fish at once was bad and that cycling with fish period is bad but that if you do you should use tough fish.

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

Five fish is not alot.

Cycling with fish is not bad; the jury is still out on fishless/fish cycling.

Period.

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

So knowing that your new tank was already overstocked and overdosed with ammonia- you go buy MORE fish?

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

9 small fish isn't overstocking a 15 gallon tank. As you know you need ammonia to cycle a tank. From the advice i have now been given neons are supposed to be too fragile to even start a tank cycling, thats why danios have been introduced.

[snapback]916051[/snapback]​

This is really stupid and I wont be helping you

[snapback]916152[/snapback]​

Why the smile?

[snapback]916170[/snapback]​

Duuude. Ammonia starts a tank cycling. it doesnt matter what fish poops the ammonia out. Neon or otherwise- the fact that neons are more susceptible to problems and death from said ammonia is another story