My first TFT

Sorry about the tone some replies have taken.

There is a point though in the criticism of Spanishguy: 9 fish may not be overstocking a 15 gallon tank in the long run, but it is too many to cycle with. If you are going to cycle with fish, you start off with only a few; I would have said 3 or 4. You only add more once the water stats have stabilised and then very slowly.

If fish start dying from the cycle that is a sign that the tank load is already more than your present state of bacteria can handle; this is not the point where you want to add more.

Still, it's a case of hardwon experience; we've all been there and made mistakes in our time. (I still cringe to think of that first tank of mine...).

For now you need to work hard on keeping your current fish alive through frequent small water changes. I use the testkit featured and have never had a problem with it. Ammonia and nitrites are the important ones to check for at the moment as they will be spiking during this time and are toxic. Do not be tempted to do anything with your ph for the time being, though getting used to testing it is probably no bad idea.
 
ncjharris said:
No ones mentioned water changes.
In these early days, esp. with fish in your tank, you'll need to keep up regular (daily) water changes with dechlorinated tap water or the amonia build up will kill more fish.

GL
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Okay, more fish have started to perish today. Maybe due to the lack of water changes, didn't find a water testing kit today so i dont know my ammonia level :crazy:

Should a be doing a 25% water every day? If so for how long?

Thanks.
 
I use a total test kit. It measures nitrate, nitrite, hardness, kh (alkalinity), and PH. It is made by Jungle and i find it to be quite sufficient. It is a strip you dip quickly in and it gives you a measuring guide for safe conditions in yuor water. It costs about $14.99 US.

loachy said:
Ok,

Thanks for (most) of the replies.

I will have a look for a testing kit on the weekend and record my results throughout the cycling process; no doubt it could be usefull for other newbies in the future.

Thanks again.
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Oops sorry here is the link online:

[http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=5363&inm=1&N=62728+113074+113566

quote=jolaf,Sep 24 2005, 11:14 AM]
I use a total test kit. It measures nitrate, nitrite, hardness, kh (alkalinity), and PH. It is made by Jungle and i find it to be quite sufficient. It is a strip you dip quickly in and it gives you a measuring guide for safe conditions in yuor water. It costs about $14.99 US.

loachy said:
Ok,

Thanks for (most) of the replies.

I will have a look for a testing kit on the weekend and record my results throughout the cycling process; no doubt it could be usefull for other newbies in the future.

Thanks again.
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loachy get the test kit, and do the water changes everyday until your tests are all at optimum levels.

It may also help you to get some used filter media from your lfs(If you can). It will have the good bacteria you need on it already, just keep it in aquarium water on the way home and put it in quickly so the bacteria doesn't die off. :thumbs:
 
loachy said:
Cycling with fish is not bad; the jury is still out on fishless/fish cycling.
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IMHO, I prefer the fishless cycle. It is shorter and doesn't cause the fish to suffer in high ammonia levels while cycling. But, it may not work sometimes, like the cycling with fish, nitrogen cycle, ect. doesn't work sometimes too. :)

Good Fishless Cycle Page

Another Good Fishless Cycle Page

Just ignore spanishguy that was rude and unnecessary! :( It is odd that the Danios died instead of the Neons, because they are less hardy.
 
Adding the ammonia by hand gives you that quick ammonia spike and assuming you have plants kick starts them into changing nitrates.
Forum: Beginner Questions · Post Preview: #430383 · Replies: 7 · Views: 79[/quote]
I am confused you joined in 2004, and have been reading and replying to topics, such as this one above. How is it you ended up in the situation you are in at the moment? Please dont take any offense to this, its just the topic leads one to believe you are a first timer who had done no research.
 
smooth_bourbon said:
Adding the ammonia by hand gives you that quick ammonia spike and assuming you have plants kick starts them into changing nitrates.
Forum: Beginner Questions · Post Preview: #430383 · Replies: 7 · Views: 79
I am confused you joined in 2004, and have been reading and replying to topics, such as this one above. How is it you ended up in the situation you are in at the moment? Please dont take any offense to this, its just the topic leads one to believe you are a first timer who had done no research.
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I had big plans for a huge tank when a fisrt moved into my house, joined the forum. My wife decided that she would rather have furniture than fish :blink: so the fish tank idea was lost.

Bout a year later found a small fish tank in the the loft bought some xtra bits and hey presto nice little aquarium :)

Forgot about fish forum; found an old link in my history and i'm back again yipee :D
 
I would go out and buy a Ammonia testube kit and some five in one test strips.
The dip tests are easy to use and good for cycling when you have really gotta be testing every day - on most of them nitrIte shows as pink so if the pads pink not white you have a reading and can take it from there - nice and simple :cool:

For now though you need to be doing daily water changes as already suggested to try and avoid any more deaths within your tank.
 
No, DON'T buy test strips. They are seriously inaccurate. The 5 in One test strips from Tetra, for instance- note nowhere on the packaging does it say accurate. And it's not. I bought some on a whim (well, actually to try them out), the tank was going through a nitrite spike (cycling) and it said 0. Moral? Buy liquid.
 
Though not as spot on as test tubes I have not found dip tests ' seriously inaccurate'

I use JBL all the time for quick tests once a week with a test tube test for NitrIte and NitrAte done once a month - the results are not as widely different as you suggest. The reason I suggested dip tests is that the original poster should be testing everyday and seeing as some test tube test take upto twenty minutes to get results its just a good way of keeping him interested enough to keep on top of the cycling process.
 
Not really. For cycling, you only really need ammonia and nitrite test kit. The nitrite takes a couple of minutes, the ammonia is instant. In the API tests at least.
 
I believe strip kits (5 in 1) generally have enough for 25 tests and cost about $7. You will do more than 25 tests during a normal fishless cycle. You can get a master test kit for about $25 and have enough tests to last 6 months (longer than that on some of the tests). Sure strips are easy and only take a minute or 2 but you can test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH with a liquid kit in about 5 minutes. Considering the cost and the time, liquid is the only way to go.
 

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