More Tests Done

[Wrams]

This morning i done more tests because the cloudieness in my tank is not going.

Here are the results.

Ammonia 0.25ppm

Nitrite 1.0ppm

Nitrate 5.0ppm

PH 7.6

and then i did a high range PH test

High Range PH 8.0

I added 5 more fish yesterday (Platy's)

What can i do to Reduce the Ammonia and Nitrite.

Also whats the High Range PH?

Thanks everyone for any info!

 

[ox5477]

The high range pH is for just that... high pH's... some fish need the higher pH... like africa rift lake cichlids. If you do the normal pH... and its anything but 8.... then you dont do the high range. If you get 8 on the normal pH test... then do the high range....

Well since your filter is prob not completely cycled, you are getting a waste spike.... which is to be expected when adding new fish... depending on the numbers already present in the tank. The best thing to do right now... without returning your fish... is begin doing daily wc's... roughly 30-40% a day until these numbers get under control... ie amm=0, nitrite=0, nitrate<60ppm. during this process the pH will swing around quite a bit as well... so dont be suprised

Ox

 

[Wrams]

The PH of the API master test kit reads to 7.6 so i decided to try the higher PH range and had the 8.0 reading. I also can't understand why my tank isn't cycled properly, i've had it running for 4 months. The only thing i can think of is that the filter is a brandnew one purchased 5 days ago, my other filter wasn't strong enough and was internal so i went and bought a external Fluval 105. My filter that wasn't doing much is running next to the new filter until its established itself.

 

[ox5477]

well with the introduction of new fish, you will get an increased bioload that the filter bacteria has to catch up to. So thats why its spiking a little. Do the daily wc's until you see both the ammonia and the nitrite drop to zero

Ox

 

[backtotropical]

It may be the case that your filter is cycled, but your bacterial bloom is causing the problems. How often do you clean the gravel / sand?

 

[Wrams]

I did a 40% WC 4 days ago and removed the gravel from the tank and replaced it with sand, the sand was washed in the old tank water then i placed the rocks and bogwood and inserted the new plants. taking my old plastic plants out.

I have just done another 40% WC and will do another tomorrow. When do i test it again?

BTT you used the Nutrafin test kits yea? I purchased 1 and Waterdrop said you used them in the past, are they good?

 

[rhostog]

Hi Wrams - you were asking about the Nutrafin liquid tests. I use these, and they're OK, give consistent results, but I find the nitrite and nitrate tests quite hard to read. The nitrite and nitrate turns the water to shades of pink, and it's very difficult to match accurately against the shades of a slightly different pink in the instructions. Nitrate is the hardest, very difficult to judge whether you're getting 10, 20 or 50mg/l - and if you're testing in the evening in artificial light, it looks different again. The nitrate test is a bit of a faff as well, as you have to shake bottle number 3 for ages before adding, and then wait 5 minutes - but I don't use this often.

They seem to be quite sensitive and will detect small amounts, so that can be useful as an early warning of a problem, if you get traces of ammonia or nitrite. From what I've seen, the API liquid tests are easier to match the colours.

Good luck with the tank - hope it's sorted out soon!

 

[Wrams]

Hi Wrams - you were asking about the Nutrafin liquid tests. I use these, and they're OK, give consistent results, but I find the nitrite and nitrate tests quite hard to read. The nitrite and nitrate turns the water to shades of pink, and it's very difficult to match accurately against the shades of a slightly different pink in the instructions. Nitrate is the hardest, very difficult to judge whether you're getting 10, 20 or 50mg/l - and if you're testing in the evening in artificial light, it looks different again. The nitrate test is a bit of a faff as well, as you have to shake bottle number 3 for ages before adding, and then wait 5 minutes - but I don't use this often.

They seem to be quite sensitive and will detect small amounts, so that can be useful as an early warning of a problem, if you get traces of ammonia or nitrite. From what I've seen, the API liquid tests are easier to match the colours.

Good luck with the tank - hope it's sorted out soon!

Hi rhostog,
I know exactly what you mean, the shades are almost identical but i have found that if you do it near a window with you back to the window and light on the testubes that helps, also hold the lid on tight and lie it down on its side then the shade in the testube will match the cards provided

If you look in the usermanual it says to lie the testube on there side to get a more accurate reading. As for the Nitrite with the 3 solution it doesn't really bother me to much. The 20 minute wait is what gets on my nerves for the solution to work properly...Oh well atleast it gives accurate readings which is what we all want.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[backtotropical]

Hi Wrams,

Yes, i use the Nutrafin test kits and find them to be very good. I don't experience the problems which Rhostog describes. The instructions tell you to hold the test tube against the paper and to view it with a light source behind you. I find that if i do that, it is quite easy to match the colour.

The only thing i would note is that you shouldn't use coloured light. White / natural light is definitely best.

Also, they seem to last forever. Some test kits will start to give you ridiculous readings after about 6 months, but i have used the same test for over 1 year and results still seem to be reasonable. (I have even checked with another test kit!)

If you gravel vac regularly, it sounds like it is just dust from the sand which is clouding the water. With regard to the ammonia and nitrite, there is no safe level of either of these in an aquarium, so you need to do as many water changes as necessary to keep levels at virtually 0 until the filter catches up. Don't let either level get above 0.25ppm.

Cheers

BTT

 

[Wrams]

Hi Wrams,

Yes, i use the Nutrafin test kits and find them to be very good. I don't experience the problems which Rhostog describes. The instructions tell you to hold the test tube against the paper and to view it with a light source behind you. I find that if i do that, it is quite easy to match the colour.

The only thing i would note is that you shouldn't use coloured light. White / natural light is definitely best.

Also, they seem to last forever. Some test kits will start to give you ridiculous readings after about 6 months, but i have used the same test for over 1 year and results still seem to be reasonable. (I have even checked with another test kit!)

If you gravel vac regularly, it sounds like it is just dust from the sand which is clouding the water. With regard to the ammonia and nitrite, there is no safe level of either of these in an aquarium, so you need to do as many water changes as necessary to keep levels at virtually 0 until the filter catches up. Don't let either level get above 0.25ppm.

Cheers

BTT

Hi BTT,

I agree with the test kit, i have never had problems matching the colours up. As for the Ammonia and Nitrite levels they are droping so hopefully soon they'll be at zero. As soon as i'm dressed i'll do another WC. Today ALL my fish are really lively and coming to the front of the tank. How often do you feed your fish? I was told twice a day but, i don't want to feed them to much so was thinking once aday will be fine. Also cut down on waste products in my tank.

Cheers

Wrams

 

[Axleuk]

I asked a similiar question about feeding.

I feed once a day, but only a small pinch of Tetra Pro Colour Flake and an Algae Wafer for the plec. As a general rule, i was informed that you can feed as much food as the fish manage to clear in 2-3 mins This sounds reasonable to me.

 

[Wrams]

I asked a similiar question about feeding.

I feed once a day, but only a small pinch of Tetra Pro Colour Flake and an Algae Wafer for the plec. As a general rule, i was informed that you can feed as much food as the fish manage to clear in 2-3 mins This sounds reasonable to me.

At the moment my tank is going through a mini-cycle due to new filter and adding 5 new platys which i added 2 days ago. I'm just worried that i might prolong the cycle if all the fish food isn't eaten, also i have 2 filters running until my new filter is established and the flow at the top of the tank is making the food sink fast. Thats another reason i wanted to feed them once aday then hopefully they will be hungry enough to eat all the food i put in.

 

[Wrams]

I have just done another test and these are the results:

Ammonia is between 0 ppm and 0.25 ppm droping slowly

Nitrite is 0.25 ppm still

Nitrate is 5.0

PH is 7.8

Hopefully another WC will lower the Ammonia and Nitrite more.

These tests where done with the API master test kit, not gonna use my Nutrafin test kit until API test kit is used up.

I'm also thinking of a 20% WC rather than a 40% WC or doesn't it matter? The levels are droping so it makes sense to me.

 

[minxfishy]

Looking good

Yep you could drop the changes to 20 - 30% now I would say. Once you do reach 0 for both amm and nitrite, keep testing for a few more weeks just to make sure and then if your adding more fish, do it slowly and by small numbers - looks like your hard work is paying off though.

 

[Wrams]

Looking good

Yep you could drop the changes to 20 - 30% now I would say. Once you do reach 0 for both amm and nitrite, keep testing for a few more weeks just to make sure and then if your adding more fish, do it slowly and by small numbers - looks like your hard work is paying off though.

Thanks Minx, Any problems you guys will be the first to know.