Lots Of Slime: Early Velvet? Slime Disease?

[soritan]

So, tomorrow I'm returning the betta which I was 'fish sitting'. He's got brand new substrate (sand), a new 'cave' (a teracotta pot I managed to squeeze in), and some pothos strands.

I noticed one thing about him which I found really odd -- he seems to produce and shed off large quantities of slime. Not enough to call it 'slime disease', but enough for me to wonder what on earth is going on. I thought, at first, that it was "Slime Coat", which is a decholr I purchased recently, but when I switched to a different dechlor, he acted the same way.

I really dislike "Slime Coat", by the way. It makes the water actually slimey, even when there is no fish in it. I hope to use it up quickly and switch to something else, suggestions welcome.

After reading up on him a bit, I finally read that Velvet actually attacks the silme coat and gills first, before it manifests itself as that velvety sheen that is the telltale sign of 'velvet'. I also read that it's generally caused by temperature fluctuations -- which I know for a fact he goes through -- I shone a flashlight on him, and saw no signs of the illness. I don't know his coloration well enough to tell if he's got discolorations going on.

Tomorrow, I'm going to change his water out 100% with 3 day old water, to see if he reacts the same way -- and this is the water his owner normally uses.

Do you think this little brat is ill, or is it simply me being slightly paranoid over someone else's fish?

Perhaps it's just a stress response? "OMG where's my person!"?

 

[Durbkat]

I don't know but I'd recommend that your remove the plant because it appears to be dirtying the water up and taking up swimming space for the betta.

 

[WILDER]

Yes it sounds like a parasite to me.

Not the writer of this information below.
Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly!

Here is costia not the writer of this information below.
Costia



Symptoms:

Infected fish have soft, film-like skin turbidity. A grayish white film of excess mucous covers the entire body of the fish including the eyes. Severe infestations can lead to skin inflammation and deterioration. Reddening of the skin and bleeding, most often occurs on the underside of the mouth and the pectoral area of the body. Sick fish often rub or scratch against objects in the aquarium in an attempt to relieve irritation. Severely infected fish may become reclusive, listless, lie on the bottom of the aquarium and stop feeding.



Cause:

The parasitic flagellates Costia necatrix and Ichthyobodo necatrix. Costia is a small bean-shaped flagellate which attaches tightly to all areas of the skin, destroying the flesh. This parasite can only survive for approximately one hour without a host and does not tolerate temperatures above 86 - 90 F.



Treatment:

Raising the water temperature to 86 - 90 degrees may be helpful if your fish can tolerate the high temperatures. Quick Cure, Formalin, Malachite Green and Copper Sulfate are the drugs of choice for Costia. Costia infestations are highly contagious. All fish, including the aquarium, should be treated.

 

[soritan]

Yes it sounds like a parasite to me.

Not the writer of this information below.
Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly!

Here is costia not the writer of this information below.
Costia



Symptoms:

Infected fish have soft, film-like skin turbidity. A grayish white film of excess mucous covers the entire body of the fish including the eyes. Severe infestations can lead to skin inflammation and deterioration. Reddening of the skin and bleeding, most often occurs on the underside of the mouth and the pectoral area of the body. Sick fish often rub or scratch against objects in the aquarium in an attempt to relieve irritation. Severely infected fish may become reclusive, listless, lie on the bottom of the aquarium and stop feeding.



Cause:

The parasitic flagellates Costia necatrix and Ichthyobodo necatrix. Costia is a small bean-shaped flagellate which attaches tightly to all areas of the skin, destroying the flesh. This parasite can only survive for approximately one hour without a host and does not tolerate temperatures above 86 - 90 F.



Treatment:

Raising the water temperature to 86 - 90 degrees may be helpful if your fish can tolerate the high temperatures. Quick Cure, Formalin, Malachite Green and Copper Sulfate are the drugs of choice for Costia. Costia infestations are highly contagious. All fish, including the aquarium, should be treated.

Thanks for that. He doesn't seem to be discolored, or have any issues with his eyes, yet... but again, I'm not his owner. It is most definately not an issue with the plant, as he was casting off great amounts of slime even when there was nothing in there but gravel, and again when there was only silk plants. At first, I had thought that it was simply his water being extremely dirty, for his owner's lack of care, and I began to make daily micro-changes to his water -- about half a gallon at a time. I figured, in time I'd clean out his bowl entirely without being too shocking. However, 3 days ago I did a 100% water change, and that's when I noticed that he was the source.

I'll put a heater on him and raise the water temperature and see if that helps. I wonder if a salt dip would also be an option? I've never performed a salt dip before, but I'd hate to send the kid home without at least treating him for what ails him.

 

[soritan]

I've noticed that his body isn't completely blue, either, it seems like his head is black and some of his body is black in patches... but it doesn't look like pigmentation, you know? Since I'm not his owner, it's hard for me to say if this is simply the color he is, or if he's losing color due to illness. The black parts seem to be dull, and not shiney.

 

[WILDER]

If he hs black patches on him that can be ammonia burns healing, slime on the fish can mean parasite or bacterial infection, so it's finding out which one.

 

[soritan]

*nods* Ammonia burns would make sense, I asked his owner how much she changed the water and how often, and she indicated about 2 inches, weekly, which isn't a great deal of water. She meant well, she didn't want to stress him out too much, but I told her she needs to change 50% out, at least. I hope that was sound advice.

I'm going to do a standard salt, heat, indian almond leaf thing tonight. At the very least, it'll be a "betta spa".

I'll try and convince her to let me keep him for another few days, as well, so I know he's been treated long enough.

I am beginning to think that my friend isn't responsible enough to actually own a fish. She likes him, now, though, so I'm hoping that my careful mentoring (constant harping), will teach her well.

 

[WILDER]

I would rather the fish stay with you, is it rubbing the fish on things, Not the writer of this information below.
Black Patches



Symptoms:

Black patches, smudges, smears, spots or markings that suddenly appear and are not natural colorings.



Cause:

These markings are the result of skin cell damage. Black markings often appear in areas where the skin has been damaged by ammonia burns, bacterial infections, parasitic infestations, and injuries. These markings are often seen on fish just after a new tank has completed “cycling,” due to the high ammonia levels. These marks are also common in African Cichlids, especially around the mouth. These are scabs that have come from digging in the gravel or from fighting.



Treatment:

No treatment is necessary. Much like scabs, the blackened areas are a sign that the healing process has already begun. Keep water in top condition and the areas will gradually fade in less than a couple of weeks.

 

[soritan]

He's not rubbing on anything, or dashing about, or even clamping his fins. He seems lethargic to me, but then, my bettas were always very human-centric. He builds bubble nests pretty frequently, much more often than any other betta I've 'met'... nearly after every water change.

Perhaps this is simply something that'll correct itself with a persistant, clean condition?

He's in a 2 gallon -ish bowl. I've never done partial water changes on a bowl this size, so I'm not sure what to recommend her.

 

[fawnmodel]

Slime coat tends to make my bettas blow better nests when using brand new treated water. Sticky slimy water)I can't afford it all the time tho) Well aged water seems to make the best nests. Hope you figure it out with the slime prob, never had that before.

 

[_cRaCkEr_]

Remove that plant.

Do 30% water change every 3 days.

Extract dried Indian Almond/Banana leaves for 3 days and pour it in your bowl.

Do frequent water change every 3 days (30%).

 

[soritan]

Well, she's picking him up today. I'll give her an indian almond leaf (should last her quite a while, it being a full leaf and this being a 2gal container), tell her to keep the bowl clean, and wish him well. I'll obviously advise her and lend her a hand where applicable. She doesn't seem to be reacting poorly to my advice, so hopefully some careful nudging here and there will give him a better home and owner.