Lighting And Fertilizers For 20Gal

[Calico7]

I have one 18" fluorescent bulb on the tank right now. I would like my tank to have moderate lighting. I am thinking of either buying a dual fluorescent fixture or a LED fixture. Which would be the better choice? The tank is a 20 tall, so the lights would be about 17" from the substrate.
 
For LED, I have been looking at Finnex Planted +, Finnex Planted + 24/7, and Current USA Satellite LED +.
 
For fluorescent:
 https/www.amazon.com/dp/B016X3U2BY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20XS1W534U5QB&coliid=I28F8KRW3DPU0U&psc=1
 
https/www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-AquaSun-Fluorescent-24-Inch/dp/B0002DIRAU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469739325&sr=1-1&keywords=Aquasun+T5-HO+Double+Light+Linear+Fluorescent+Hoods
 
https/www.amazon.com/dp/B002P9MFW0/ref=twister_B008XFRXQI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
I have the following plants:
- Java Fern
- Anubias nana
- Anubias congensis (I think)
- Amazon Sword
- Creeping Jenny
 
I would like to add some type of carpeting plant and plants with red/purple color. Any suggestions on what would do well in moderate lighting?
 
For fertilizers, I am using Flourish Root Tabs, Flourish Excel, and Caribsea Floura-Max for substrate. After I run out of root tabs, I might start using Osmocote. What other ferts should I be adding to the tank? The leaves on one of my Anubias nana keeps turning yellow and falling off, and I am not sure what deficiency would cause this. There are fish in the tank, so the plants get some nutrients from them.

 

[Byron]

I will assume the present 18-inch single tube fixture is T8, not T5; these are very different and the tubes are not interchangeable.  So assuming T8, you will have moderate light with a good tube, by which I mean something like the Hagen Life-Glo or the ZooMed UltraSun.  Both of these are trichromatic and produce more intensity than standard T8 tubes or the "plant" or "aquarium" tubes by the same manufacturers..  There may be others around, but these two I have used.
 
The fixtures in the three links in your post are all T5, and this gets you into very high light.  T5 is roughly 1.5 times more intense than T8 in the same type and size, so a dual T5 is approximately 3-4 T8's of the same type.  "Type" means Life-Glo T8 compared with Life-Glo T5.  Different types of tubes, which have different phosphors, will not be the same intensity, plus the spectrum may vary and that affects things too.
 
LED I have not had success with, I have tried four or five fixtures (not those mentioned here), all went back.  Good LED for planted tanks is quite expensive, but if you are willing to go that route and know what you are buying, it can certainly work.  I will leave it for those with the experience to comment on the LED mentioned.
 
Moving to the plants...all those you now have will be fine with moderate light, and the single T8 tube Life-Glo or UltraSun.  However, you may need to add some nutrients, I'll come back to this topic.  "Carpet" plants generally need more intense light, since they are farthest from the light source, though this depends upon the plant species and tank depth.  I use the chain swords (Helanthium tenellum and H. bolivianum) or crypts for the substrate level, as I do not want bright lighting (for the sake of the fish, it really does affect them) so I stay with plants that thrive under the conditions I am prepared to give them, in lighting and fertilization.
 
Red-leaf plants also require more intense lighting, for a different reason.  Red and blue light drives photosynthesis.  Plant leaves appear the colour they are due to the light that is reflected.  So green leaf plants are using red and blue and reflecting a lot of green; red leaf plants are using red and blue and reflecting red, thus they need more of it.  And red is the primary light colour for photosynthesis.  The tubes I mentioned previously are strongest in red, blue and green, which is why they are more "intense" light and tend to do the best job over plants.
 
Turning to the other essential aspect, nutrients, there is likely a deficiency with your present system.  It could be the light (not knowing what type of tube you have), or the nutrient balance, or both.  Flourish root tabs are very good for substrate-rooted plants, but Anubias is not so this plant needs nutrients in the water column.  The enriched substrate is also of no help to Anubias, and perhaps nothing else as well.  I am not a fan of these expensive substrates, as having tried one (Flourite) with no success I can't see the point.  I understand Eco-Complete is the same basic thing, not sure about Flora-Max.  I use regular play sand (previously used fine gravel).  Liquid fertilizers and substrate tabs balance the light, varying from tank to tank.
 
Osmocote is a terrestrial plant fertilizer and is high in nitrate and phosphate.  I personally would not put this in an aquarium; I know some do and say it works, fine.  But it can cause issues.  Same for the Flourish Excel; this is glutaraldehyde and i don't want that inside my fish.  Even if this so-called liquid carbon was worth it, you are not adding any of the other nutrients to balance so it is likely minimal at best.  Plants need 17 nutrients, in somewhat a specific proportion to one another, and if something is missing the others won't make up for it.
 
I've been quite brief, but I hope this helps; feel free to ask whatever.
 
Byron.

 

[StevenF]

 
 
For LED, I have been looking at Finnex Planted +, Finnex Planted + 24/7, and Current USA Satellite LED +

Unfortunately I found no brightness information for this light so it is not possible to know if it is bright enough for your plants.  This is the biggest problem with LED light fixtures today.  Manufactures generally don't provide brightness information making it impossible to know if it is bright enough or not. 

 

[StevenF]

 
 
For fertilizers, I am using Flourish Root Tabs, Flourish Excel, and Caribsea Floura-Max for substrate. After I run out of root tabs, I might start using Osmocote. What other ferts should I be adding to the tank?

Osmocote is not designed for aquarium use and may release nutrients to fast for an aquarium.  Excel is mainly a CO2 supplement.  Most aquariums don't need a CO2 supplement for plant growth.  If you want very fast plant growth they you will need it plus a complete fertillizer to provide all the nutrients a plant needs.  I would use SeaChem Flourish Comprehensive.  If has everything plants need  except CO2 and is designed for aquariums If you have fish in your aquarium you have CO2 since the fiash are producingit.  As Byron said you need to cover all of the plants nutrient requirements.  If you are short just one your plants may not grow or may even die.  

 

[Calico7]

I will assume the present 18-inch single tube fixture is T8, not T5; these are very different and the tubes are not interchangeable.  So assuming T8, you will have moderate light with a good tube, by which I mean something like the Hagen Life-Glo or the ZooMed UltraSun.  Both of these are trichromatic and produce more intensity than standard T8 tubes or the "plant" or "aquarium" tubes by the same manufacturers..  There may be others around, but these two I have used.
 
The fixtures in the three links in your post are all T5, and this gets you into very high light.  T5 is roughly 1.5 times more intense than T8 in the same type and size, so a dual T5 is approximately 3-4 T8's of the same type.  "Type" means Life-Glo T8 compared with Life-Glo T5.  Different types of tubes, which have different phosphors, will not be the same intensity, plus the spectrum may vary and that affects things too.
 
LED I have not had success with, I have tried four or five fixtures (not those mentioned here), all went back.  Good LED for planted tanks is quite expensive, but if you are willing to go that route and know what you are buying, it can certainly work.  I will leave it for those with the experience to comment on the LED mentioned.
 
Moving to the plants...all those you now have will be fine with moderate light, and the single T8 tube Life-Glo or UltraSun.  However, you may need to add some nutrients, I'll come back to this topic.  "Carpet" plants generally need more intense light, since they are farthest from the light source, though this depends upon the plant species and tank depth.  I use the chain swords (Helanthium tenellum and H. bolivianum) or crypts for the substrate level, as I do not want bright lighting (for the sake of the fish, it really does affect them) so I stay with plants that thrive under the conditions I am prepared to give them, in lighting and fertilization.
 
Red-leaf plants also require more intense lighting, for a different reason.  Red and blue light drives photosynthesis.  Plant leaves appear the colour they are due to the light that is reflected.  So green leaf plants are using red and blue and reflecting a lot of green; red leaf plants are using red and blue and reflecting red, thus they need more of it.  And red is the primary light colour for photosynthesis.  The tubes I mentioned previously are strongest in red, blue and green, which is why they are more "intense" light and tend to do the best job over plants.
 
Turning to the other essential aspect, nutrients, there is likely a deficiency with your present system.  It could be the light (not knowing what type of tube you have), or the nutrient balance, or both.  Flourish root tabs are very good for substrate-rooted plants, but Anubias is not so this plant needs nutrients in the water column.  The enriched substrate is also of no help to Anubias, and perhaps nothing else as well.  I am not a fan of these expensive substrates, as having tried one (Flourite) with no success I can't see the point.  I understand Eco-Complete is the same basic thing, not sure about Flora-Max.  I use regular play sand (previously used fine gravel).  Liquid fertilizers and substrate tabs balance the light, varying from tank to tank.
 
Osmocote is a terrestrial plant fertilizer and is high in nitrate and phosphate.  I personally would not put this in an aquarium; I know some do and say it works, fine.  But it can cause issues.  Same for the Flourish Excel; this is glutaraldehyde and i don't want that inside my fish.  Even if this so-called liquid carbon was worth it, you are not adding any of the other nutrients to balance so it is likely minimal at best.  Plants need 17 nutrients, in somewhat a specific proportion to one another, and if something is missing the others won't make up for it.
 
I've been quite brief, but I hope this helps; feel free to ask whatever.
 
Byron.

 
 

 

 
 
For LED, I have been looking at Finnex Planted +, Finnex Planted + 24/7, and Current USA Satellite LED +

Unfortunately I found no brightness information for this light so it is not possible to know if it is bright enough for your plants.  This is the biggest problem with LED light fixtures today.  Manufactures generally don't provide brightness information making it impossible to know if it is bright enough or not. 
 

 
 

 

 
 
For fertilizers, I am using Flourish Root Tabs, Flourish Excel, and Caribsea Floura-Max for substrate. After I run out of root tabs, I might start using Osmocote. What other ferts should I be adding to the tank?

Osmocote is not designed for aquarium use and may release nutrients to fast for an aquarium.  Excel is mainly a CO2 supplement.  Most aquariums don't need a CO2 supplement for plant growth.  If you want very fast plant growth they you will need it plus a complete fertillizer to provide all the nutrients a plant needs.  I would use SeaChem Flourish Comprehensive.  If has everything plants need  except CO2 and is designed for aquariums If you have fish in your aquarium you have CO2 since the fiash are producingit.  As Byron said you need to cover all of the plants nutrient requirements.  If you are short just one your plants may not grow or may even die.  
 

Thank you all for the information!
 
The current light is a T8 15 watt bulb. Three of my anubias have grown just fine with it. The other plants are surviving but not thriving. 
 
I think I will go for T5-HO lights since it seems like you have to pay big bucks to get quality LEDs. I used an online lighting calculator for the light I was considering buying. For my particular tank, it said I would get ~2 watts/gallon and ~43 PAR at depth. From what I've read, this would be considered moderate light, which is what I want.
 
I went to my LFS today to pick up Flourish, but they didn't have any. They did have the Aquavitro line, which is more expensive. Should I look into getting those, or buy the Flourish online?

 

[Byron]

The current light is a T8 15 watt bulb. Three of my anubias have grown just fine with it. The other plants are surviving but not thriving.
 

 
As I mentioned previously you just need a good tube.  I can assure you that a single 18-inch T8 with a Life-Glo or UltraSun tube will provide sufficient light to be moderate or a little better.  I use these and have for several years.
 

I think I will go for T5-HO lights since it seems like you have to pay big bucks to get quality LEDs. I used an online lighting calculator for the light I was considering buying. For my particular tank, it said I would get ~2 watts/gallon and ~43 PAR at depth. From what I've read, this would be considered moderate light, which is what I want.
 

 
There is a lot of inaccurate information concerning planted tanks and lighting.  If you could find a single-tube T5, it could work, though this would be quite intense over this sized tank.  A dual-tube like those linked previously will be far too much, and you will have algae issues, poor plant response (because the nutrients including CO2 will not balance), and nervous fish.  Fish do not appreciate bright lighting; I've no idea what fish you intend in this tank, but unless it is to be plant-only I would not go with T5 tubes.  As soon as you get into T5 with two tubes, you are looking a daily fertilizing and diffused CO2 to balance.  And with the plants mentioned here, this is a waste of effort as they simply don't need this.
 
The watts per gallon or watts per litre is frankly meaningless today.  This "guide" was helpful back in the days when the only lighting we used over aquaria was either incandescent (screw-in) bulbs or T12 fluorescent tube (I had this back in the 1980's when T5 had not been invented yet, nor LED).  The T8 replaced the T12 as more efficient lighting as it takes less energy and can produce slightly brighter light.  Watts is simply the measurement unit of how much energy (electricity) a tube or bulb requires to emit its light.  Unless you are comparing identical types of bulb/tube, watts is not a useful indicator of brightness.  For example, a 13w Daylight 6500K CFL bulb will be brighter than a 9w Daylight 6500K CFL bulb, because here you are comparing identically-made bulbs so the more watts the brighter the light.  But as another example a 48-inch 40w Life-Glo T8 tube is approximately twice the light intensity as a 48-inch 40w Aqua-Glo T8 tube; it is because of how the tubes are made, with the phosphors.
 
None of my tanks have anywhere near 2 watts per gallon; the brightest lit is about 1 watt per gallon, and this is my 70g which has two T8 tubes of 32w each, and I had to reduce the duration down to 7 hours max to avoid algae increasing to a problem.  My 20g has two 9w CFL bulbs, so close to 1 w/g, but this works fine with 8 hours daily as these are not overly-bright bulbs; and by the way, the 9w CFL is equal to a 40w old type incandescent bulb, again showing the uselessness of watts alone.  My former 115g five-foot tank had two 48-inch 32w T8 tubes and the plants thrived.  So don't get caught up on watts.
 
I've never even considered PAR as over the past 20 years I have worked out the moderate light I need over my 8 tanks, but Steven can probably fill you in more on PAR.
 

I went to my LFS today to pick up Flourish, but they didn't have any. They did have the Aquavitro line, which is more expensive. Should I look into getting those, or buy the Flourish online?
 

 
I've not tried the AquaVitro line as it is, as you say, very expensive especially when one has a room full of tanks like I do.  I've been using Flourish products, some of them, with success.  I have bought some online, but I also have a good local fish store that carries this line for the same low price as I can get online, so I give the store my business as it costs me no more--less actually when I don't have postage to pay.
 
Before getting fertilizers, it is wise to sort out the "natural" sources of nutrients.  What is the GH of your source water?  This is the prime source of the "hard" minerals, and if you have very soft water like I do, these may need adding, or with moderately hard water likely not.  Fish foods and fish load is important; you can get all the nutrients you need just from fish foods and water changes, depending upon the plants and the fish load and the GH.  Adding too much of any plant additive can cause algae issues (I have gone through this) plus these additives get inside the fish and this should be kept minimal.
 
Byron.

 

[StevenF]

 
 
I went to my LFS today to pick up Flourish, but they didn't have any. They did have the Aquavitro line, which is more expensive. Should I look into getting those, or buy the Flourish online?

In my experience there is a lot of variability in fertilizers sold for aquariums.  Some just include the nutrients plants need most. Others may include more but still leave out some nutrients.  Even those that say they are complete are frequently not.  One I used didn't have copper and as a result it worked best at encouraging algae growth rather than plant growth.
 
SeaChem Flourish Comprehensive is the only one I know of that is complete and it works well for me.  I have not heard of Aquatiro.  If it costs more than Flourish Comprehensive I wouldn't get it.   The ingredients in fertilizers are actually cheap.  Most of what you are paying for is measuring of the ingredients, mixing and packaging.  Why pay more for the Aquatiro Premium fertilizers when the likely have the same ingredients used in Flourish Comprehensive?