Leveling a tank

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Wills

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Hi I am finally getting around to filling my second Aquascaper 1200 and just as I've got to a scape I'm happy with I've realised I've never checked its level with a spirit level so I went to get mine and left to right is ok, not perfect but I'm ok with it but front to back is out. The bubble is sitting to the right of the two central markers so I need to work out how to raise the back of the tank.

I'm going to need to get a friend round to help me sort it but from memory the bottom of the stand has an outer rectangle frame and then two cross bars underneath - so a rectangle with 2 lines inside if that makes sense.

If I can work out how much I need to raise it by would it be as simple as getting a strong enough wood to raise the back edge up? I'm wondering if I lift the back of the stand up onto one piece of wood then kind of fill in around it with smaller pieces it would taper enough to create enough support. The perfect answer would be to cut a triangular wedge but I'm not that skilled.

Or if I just got a strip of wood to the right height I need and put the stand on it - would it matter there are a few gaps? Or would it just be strong enough?

Wills
 
The stand has no adjustable leveling feet ?

Like these:
Heavy Duty Leg Levelers for Cabinets

I always made my tanks racks myself, So I always assumed this would de-facto in a well thought Aquarium support.

What do they think ??? We are going to use a matchbook to level a 1000 Lbs Aquarium ?!?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Before I set my aquarium down I put styrofoam sheets under the stand, then I put the aquarium on the stand and set up the tank.
 
My practice has been to deal with leveling before I even beign adding any hardscape. I almost always need to level tanks. The only two that have been perfectly level from day one are my inwall tanks where I had a carpenter do all the work. However, I also make alot of my own stands. racks using wood.

So here is how I do it, for whatever that is worth.

I build the stands to be level, but the nature of the solid slab that are the floors is not even and level. Next, I use pressure trated lumber which has a tendency not to be straight. I have to level it all. So, I cut precciesly, use multiple screws and use come-alongs to counter bending during assembly. Despit this or even using commercial iron/metal stands, things are usually level when I start the next step where things become uneven.

I start to add water to the empty tank. The goal is to increase the weight which should reveal any leveling issues. I also use a fairly long level. In addition I use my eyes and a ruler. If a tank is level then the water level inside the tank should also be even. If if is clearly off Imay be able to see this but I may need to measure or use the level to check. The goal of this is to start shimming the stand. I should mention that none of my stands are on carpet. They are on wood floors or linoleum floors.

Using shims works find as long as they can be put into place under the stand. So, it is easier to get the shim in place where they should be the less there is in the tank. Too much weigh and I cannot even hammer them into place. And this is why I add the water gradually during the process. Sometime I actually have to remove some of the water to get the shims in place.

There is one other trick I use that is akin to styro under the tank. All of my tanks have plastic frames on the bottom and top. I have no frameless tanks. So I see no point using styro since it is only the frame which supports the tank on a stand. Most, but not all, of my stands are frame only support. The trick is I use foam insulation tape aka weather stripping. This is used to seal doors and windows. I get the type which is self adhesive on one side.

The tape comes in a variety of widths and thicknesses. On my wooden stands I am placing the tank frame to rest on 2x4s on edge. But 2xx4s either regular or pressure treated tend to be uneven as well as warped. But, even if fairly straigt, the surface is definitely no even. The weatherstripping acts as a self leveler. If I did rimless tanks i would have a full plywood top on a stand and would use styro.
black-frost-king-foam-tapes-r734h-64_600.jpg


Now, here is one more secret re leveling. Almost no tank needs to be absolutely level. In fact, even a tank that starts life perfectly level may not remain that way. So, my goal with leveling tanks is not perfection, instead it is minimization. Levels have those lines for centering and the goal is to keep the bubble between those lines. My goals is to insure that the bubble does not touch the line on either side of a perfectly centered bubble. I will accept a not 100% centered as long as it starts and stays between the two lines over time.

Over the years I had only a 2.5 gal tank actually crack the glass. I did something stupid with it. I left it hanging half over the end of a table and filled it about 1/3 with water and then went to do something else. When I came back the glass had cracked. I have also had 3 tanks leak. All 3 leaked without any cracking or breakage meaning the seal gave. One of the 3 was a new 20L and I just replaced it. I had gotten it so cheaply that it made more sense to do that than to deal with a getting a refund.

Here is a pic of my 150 gal being placed on the stand I built. If you look closely where the tank sits on the stand you will notice a black line between them, it is the weather stripping.
150goesin.jpg


Here are both stand and tanks on them and you can just make out the weather stripping under the 125 (it has a black frame).
6footersbothin.jpg


As you can see I also paint my wooden stands. I use a semi-gloss exterior paint for this. Stands will get wet repeatedly over time. I never finished those stands. They were designed to have a finished look if I wanted to do so. Instead the 125 has a 40L under it and the 150 has supplies and a canister filter under it.

Those tanks were both purchased used. They have been up and running for several years ( I think about 5 -7).
 
this is something you definitely need to look at... I built 2 small stands that each hold 2 10 gallon tanks ( stacked )... I made the stands nice & level, then hauled them to the basement, just to discover the 100 year old concrete floor is horribly unlevel...these stands slid into an area under my built in aquariums, one on each side of a 55 gallon, so about 5 feet apart... one side was level enough, maybe a 1/4 inch off, but the other side is like an 1inch & a half off, in the size of a 10 gallon aquarium... if I would have known that before I filled them to find out... it was far enough off, that I put a 2 X 4 laying on it's side 1.5" milled size to make the tanks level enough... I've seen wood floors way off before, but I think an inch & half in the 18" space of a 10 gallon takes it as the most off for me...
 
Thanks for posting this, I hadn't even been thinking of levelling the tanks when I set up the 240L after decorating, and I really had better! Dad's ancient 57g is visibly tilted down to the left back corner and has been for years, and always makes me nervous because of that. Somehow *touch wood* it hasn't given or cracked... yet.

Question - I got some polystyrene sheets, do I put them between the floor and the stand, or the tank and the stand? I thought it was the latter?
 
The stand has no adjustable leveling feet ?

Like these:
Heavy Duty Leg Levelers for Cabinets

I always made my tanks racks myself, So I always assumed this would de-facto in a well thought Aquarium support.

What do they think ??? We are going to use a matchbook to level a 1000 Lbs Aquarium ?!?
Not on this model, I have the metal framed version on my other tank and that has adjustable feet but this one is just a wooden frame on the bottom - I'm reluctant to put after market feet on as not sure how well it would take the load but those would be perfect!
Before I set my aquarium down I put styrofoam sheets under the stand, then I put the aquarium on the stand and set up the tank.
I dont know if styrofoam is going to cut this!
My practice has been to deal with leveling before I even beign adding any hardscape. I almost always need to level tanks. The only two that have been perfectly level from day one are my inwall tanks where I had a carpenter do all the work. However, I also make alot of my own stands. racks using wood.

So here is how I do it, for whatever that is worth.

I build the stands to be level, but the nature of the solid slab that are the floors is not even and level. Next, I use pressure trated lumber which has a tendency not to be straight. I have to level it all. So, I cut precciesly, use multiple screws and use come-alongs to counter bending during assembly. Despit this or even using commercial iron/metal stands, things are usually level when I start the next step where things become uneven.

I start to add water to the empty tank. The goal is to increase the weight which should reveal any leveling issues. I also use a fairly long level. In addition I use my eyes and a ruler. If a tank is level then the water level inside the tank should also be even. If if is clearly off Imay be able to see this but I may need to measure or use the level to check. The goal of this is to start shimming the stand. I should mention that none of my stands are on carpet. They are on wood floors or linoleum floors.

Using shims works find as long as they can be put into place under the stand. So, it is easier to get the shim in place where they should be the less there is in the tank. Too much weigh and I cannot even hammer them into place. And this is why I add the water gradually during the process. Sometime I actually have to remove some of the water to get the shims in place.

There is one other trick I use that is akin to styro under the tank. All of my tanks have plastic frames on the bottom and top. I have no frameless tanks. So I see no point using styro since it is only the frame which supports the tank on a stand. Most, but not all, of my stands are frame only support. The trick is I use foam insulation tape aka weather stripping. This is used to seal doors and windows. I get the type which is self adhesive on one side.

The tape comes in a variety of widths and thicknesses. On my wooden stands I am placing the tank frame to rest on 2x4s on edge. But 2xx4s either regular or pressure treated tend to be uneven as well as warped. But, even if fairly straigt, the surface is definitely no even. The weatherstripping acts as a self leveler. If I did rimless tanks i would have a full plywood top on a stand and would use styro.
black-frost-king-foam-tapes-r734h-64_600.jpg


Now, here is one more secret re leveling. Almost no tank needs to be absolutely level. In fact, even a tank that starts life perfectly level may not remain that way. So, my goal with leveling tanks is not perfection, instead it is minimization. Levels have those lines for centering and the goal is to keep the bubble between those lines. My goals is to insure that the bubble does not touch the line on either side of a perfectly centered bubble. I will accept a not 100% centered as long as it starts and stays between the two lines over time.

Over the years I had only a 2.5 gal tank actually crack the glass. I did something stupid with it. I left it hanging half over the end of a table and filled it about 1/3 with water and then went to do something else. When I came back the glass had cracked. I have also had 3 tanks leak. All 3 leaked without any cracking or breakage meaning the seal gave. One of the 3 was a new 20L and I just replaced it. I had gotten it so cheaply that it made more sense to do that than to deal with a getting a refund.

Here is a pic of my 150 gal being placed on the stand I built. If you look closely where the tank sits on the stand you will notice a black line between them, it is the weather stripping.
View attachment 338117

Here are both stand and tanks on them and you can just make out the weather stripping under the 125 (it has a black frame).
View attachment 338118

As you can see I also paint my wooden stands. I use a semi-gloss exterior paint for this. Stands will get wet repeatedly over time. I never finished those stands. They were designed to have a finished look if I wanted to do so. Instead the 125 has a 40L under it and the 150 has supplies and a canister filter under it.

Those tanks were both purchased used. They have been up and running for several years ( I think about 5 -7).
This is shop bought stand so I cant adjust it that well.

I definitely agree we can't ever be 100% level, centre of the level territory - I use a 1m spirit level and its a good one so nice and accurate.

I will definitely empty all the rocks out and move the tank off before attempting anything. I've ordered a few packs of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08P55DXZ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which being 8 inches long I thought might mean I can run one of them along the 4 main supports of the frame, then double up two of them to make a rectangle to sit along the back that way it will all be the same. The shims are .5cm so I could even double up and make a 16 inch ramp with a 1cm raise at the back, somewhere between those two I feel will provide the difference. I was thinking of super glueing the shims to make them stick together, though I think the weight and pressure will be enough.
this is something you definitely need to look at... I built 2 small stands that each hold 2 10 gallon tanks ( stacked )... I made the stands nice & level, then hauled them to the basement, just to discover the 100 year old concrete floor is horribly unlevel...these stands slid into an area under my built in aquariums, one on each side of a 55 gallon, so about 5 feet apart... one side was level enough, maybe a 1/4 inch off, but the other side is like an 1inch & a half off, in the size of a 10 gallon aquarium... if I would have known that before I filled them to find out... it was far enough off, that I put a 2 X 4 laying on it's side 1.5" milled size to make the tanks level enough... I've seen wood floors way off before, but I think an inch & half in the 18" space of a 10 gallon takes it as the most off for me...
I'm usually super paranoid about this! Hopefully I'll be able to get this into a good situation with the shims and get it set up!
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thanks for posting this, I hadn't even been thinking of levelling the tanks when I set up the 240L after decorating, and I really had better! Dad's ancient 57g is visibly tilted down to the left back corner and has been for years, and always makes me nervous because of that. Somehow *touch wood* it hasn't given or cracked... yet.

Question - I got some polystyrene sheets, do I put them between the floor and the stand, or the tank and the stand? I thought it was the latter?
I was really hoping I was going to get lucky with this, its a concrete floor and was only laid in 2014 so thought it would be level... hence going with the wooden stand in this room. I'd just got the rock work in place and was about to split open the sand bags and thought I'd check! So glad I did it would have been impossible to get the sand out.
 
I was really hoping I was going to get lucky with this, its a concrete floor and was only laid in 2014 so thought it would be level... hence going with the wooden stand in this room. I'd just got the rock work in place and was about to split open the sand bags and thought I'd check! So glad I did it would have been impossible to get the sand out.

I have no idea what's under the floor here, house was built in the 20s. There's basically fake wood looking lino in there now, but no idea what's underneath that, or how many layers of uneven DIY flooring might be there! The upstairs definitely has original floorboards though, which I intend to sand, stain and varnish. :D

But with 1920s built ex-council houses, I doubt making sure the floor was perfectly level was high priority, and judging by the lean on dad's tank, they're not that even! Now I'm thinking I should learn what a shim is, and dig out one of dad's spirit levels. Glad you posted this so I remember to check before just whacking a massive tank up there! I like to think I would have remembered to check, but with how scatter-brained I am at the best of times, I might not have! So cheers, might have helped others too.

Hope yours isn't too hard to level out. Useful to have mates that nearby that will help with the tank shifting too! I'll enlist some handy neighbours for help with mine when I'm ready to get the tanks in. :)
 
Not on this model, I have the metal framed version on my other tank and that has adjustable feet but this one is just a wooden frame on the bottom - I'm reluctant to put after market feet on as not sure how well it would take the load but those would be perfect!

I don't know how much time and effort you want to invest on it.

Depending on the floor and the Foot of the Cabinet (that could probably be re-enforced)

6 of these Levelers are enough for 75-125 gallons on a wood floor.

They permit re-adjustment as the house gets used to the weight. That is a strong reason to bother with it and save a tank before it cracks. On a concrete floor I would not like it, but, once done there are a lot less chance of movement.

But if I don't have it exactly on "pin". My brain cannot give up with it and every water changes reminds me that...
I should have done it right... For all the rest of the time the setup will live. It's coming back at me.
I'm a real maniac on that king of stuff. I dismantled a whole setup once, because of this... Never again.
 
I don't know the truth of this, but I have heard it said by a number of old time aquarists I respect. Their line was that a tank about 40 gallons that isn't level will change shape. It isn't dangerous. But if you level it, suddenly, the strains become a problem. The tank is misshapen, and levelled after neglect tanks tend to break.

If we have any structural engineers, they can comment on how sensible that sounds. But the people who shared this with me all claimed to have made that mistake, and swore sincerely while describing it.
 
@AdoraBelle Dearheart If it was built in the 1920s it's likely to be wooden flooring downstairs. The house I lived in until I was 11 was built sometime between the wars and had wooden floors; the house our son and his ex wife lived in is of a similar age and again with wooden floors except for concrete under the larder. Both these houses had a trapdoor to access the crawlspace under the floor, ours was in the understairs cupboard.
 
I don't know the truth of this, but I have heard it said by a number of old time aquarists I respect. Their line was that a tank about 40 gallons that isn't level will change shape. It isn't dangerous. But if you level it, suddenly, the strains become a problem. The tank is misshapen, and levelled after neglect tanks tend to break.

If we have any structural engineers, they can comment on how sensible that sounds. But the people who shared this with me all claimed to have made that mistake, and swore sincerely while describing it.
Damned if I do damned if I don't haha!

This tank is second hand and I'd assume that the previous owner had it level - its a rimless tank so most people will go the extra mile to get it right.
 
I don't know how much time and effort you want to invest on it.

Depending on the floor and the Foot of the Cabinet (that could probably be re-enforced)

6 of these Levelers are enough for 75-125 gallons on a wood floor.

They permit re-adjustment as the house gets used to the weight. That is a strong reason to bother with it and save a tank before it cracks. On a concrete floor I would not like it, but, once done there are a lot less chance of movement.

But if I don't have it exactly on "pin". My brain cannot give up with it and every water changes reminds me that...
I should have done it right... For all the rest of the time the setup will live. It's coming back at me.
I'm a real maniac on that king of stuff. I dismantled a whole setup once, because of this... Never again.
It is a tricky choice but I think the shims I've ordered might do the trick, good to know on the feet though, I'm not sure its quite right for this stand though.

The way the stand is built the weight will go through this frame at the base and I'd only be able to attach the feet to the inner board so its not quite putting the weight through the right place.
 

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