Yes, both the 20g and the 29g have access to sunlight in the mornings.Put all the cories in the same tank, but not a 5g.
Hopefully you have male and female (of any of your fish, otherwise breeding isnt going to happen, obvs!)
Feed them well, but dont over feed. Mine love omega one shrimp pellets.
Do a 5-10% water change before you go to bed/before lights out, but dont temp match the new water, just add cold (dechlorinated) water.
Do any of your tanks catch any daylight? Just a glimpse of morning sun is known to be a trigger.
You can move all of the Corydoras to the 20 gallon and remove any fish. Keep it species only tank for breeding purposes.
Cool. I'd put all the cories in the shallow one on the left. Whatever is in that tank, put them in the tank on the right. If you get cory eggs, you want the best chance of getting to them before something eats them. Yes, the corys themselves often eat them...Yes, both the 20g and the 29g have access to sunlight in the mornings.
Obviously it’s night time, but as you can see, they are right up against two windows:
Do you recommend removing the blood fins from the 20g long? I don’t have any other place to put them.
The tank on the left is the 20g long, and on the right is the 29g.Cool. I'd put all the cories in the shallow one on the left. Whatever is in that tank, put them in the tank on the right. If you get cory eggs, you want the best chance of getting to them before something eats them. Yes, the corys themselves often eat them...
You can concentrate on the corys then (if thats what you want to/can breed) and getting their tank in prime condition. Add some leaf litter etc
heck, check out NC's breeding journal, pretty sure she just used a plastic storage tub
Post in thread 'Corydoras Weitzmani Breeding Journal' https://www.fishforums.net/threads/corydoras-weitzmani-breeding-journal.462714/post-3952371The tank on the left is the 20g long, and on the right is the 29g.
Moving the glass bloodfins to the 29g would be pretty stressful on all fish.
I think I would rather use the storage tub and put all the corys in there, rather than stress out all my fish.
I’ll try to find that breeding journal.
@CassCat you’re the one who told me to do bare bottom for the first week and then add just a small handful of sand after a week. Which is it?
@CassCats, Great job!Your cories are trilineatus, not julii, so look for info on breeding trilineatus.
If you intend on breeding and raising in a separate tank, your 5g alone would be fine just would move the danio.
Fatten up your cories in the main tank for a few weeks. Feed lots of frozen foods or live foods particularly.
When you have a female who is visibly chunky and a good size, move her and 2-3 males over to the 5 gallon tank with some floating anacharis. Trilineatus lay 1-2 eggs at a time on plant leaves mostly, and do not lay mass batches in one place like aeneus do.
When moved, do daily 50% water changes, making sure the new water is colder than the original tank water by a couple degrees. Having extra airstones running in the tank helps a lot too.
The males will chase the female and will grab her whiskers with her pelvic fins and fertilize the eggs in a "T" shaped position. The female then carries off the eggs and places them where she wants, while the males continue to chase her.
Once they have spawned, remove the parents back to the community tank. Add Indian almond leaves, alder cones, or a couple drops of methylene blue to prevent fungus on the eggs, increase aeration but lower the water level in the 5g to a couple inches, gently remove any eggs above the water line and place them in the water. Or, wait til they all hatch and reduce water level then
Reason to lower water level is to make the food and the air closer for them as they need to go up for air just like adults do, and deeper tanks make it harder for them to do so. And being closer to food makes it easier for them to get enough to eat.
The eggs hatch after 3-5 days, remove any that fungus over as soon as you see them (check couple times a day), and wait for them to hatch.
Once they hatch, don't feed the fry until 2-3 days after they hatch as they still have their yolk sac. Trilineatus fry are large enough to take Hikari First Bites, baby brine shrimp, or egg yolk the first week, honestly have had best success starting them on Hikari First Bites for a week and then moving on to microworms or baby brine shrimp. Be sure to rinse the bbs in fresh water before feeding them. Feed 2-3 times daily.
As they grow, increase the water level. By 7 days old be sure they have a thin layer of sand as it increases their survival rate.
Daily also do water changes to keep the fry growing properly.
A brief and basic guide ive made here on raising fry the first week:
For tetras, barbs and a lot of other fishes, you put the adults in a breeding tank and when they have bred, you move the adults out and leave the eggs behind in the breeding tank. This is to stop the adult fishes eating the eggs and fry and gives you more young fish.Everything everyone else has been telling me, is to move them into the 5g and then once they lay eggs, remove the adults.
Corydoras do not care for the eggs or young and once they have spawned, they show no interest in the eggs. That means you can remove the eggs and the parents won't care.Would moving the eggs be stressful for them?
So are you recommending I move all of the corys to the 20g long?