Increasing water hardness

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malfunction

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So, Iā€™m getting two new tanks soon and am thinking about setting up one as an all male peacock tank. My waterā€™s soft (1-2dH KH; 4-5dH GH), so Iā€™m thinking about raising the hardness. Normally I stay clear of meddling with parameters, but Iā€™m thinking of making an exception. Does anyone have any recommendations on the safest and most consistent ways of raising hardness? Iā€™ve come across Epsom salts and bicarbonate of soda a few times - would be great to know how effective this is.
Thanks
 
You need to increase the calcium (primarily) and magnesium. Epsom salt is only the latter (plus sulphur). Bicarbonate of soda is a temporary buffering but that is not going to increase the GH.

You can use a calcareous sand sold for rift lake cichlid tanks; I did this back in the 1980's when I had a tank of livebearers and one of rifdt lake cichlids, since my source water was zero GH/KH and 5 or lower in pH. You can also use rift lake cichlid salts; these are mineral salts, not sodium (common salt). You need to prepare the water used in all water changes outside the aquarium if you use these salts.
 
Crushed coral or cuttlebone is the most ā€œnaturalā€ way to do it.
Ok, thanks. Do they into the filter? Or into the substrate? Also, I usually do 50% water changes each week - does this mean Iā€™ll get swings in pH every time I do a water change?
 
You need to increase the calcium (primarily) and magnesium. Epsom salt is only the latter (plus sulphur). Bicarbonate of soda is a temporary buffering but that is not going to increase the GH.

You can use a calcareous sand sold for rift lake cichlid tanks; I did this back in the 1980's when I had a tank of livebearers and one of rifdt lake cichlids, since my source water was zero GH/KH and 5 or lower in pH. You can also use rift lake cichlid salts; these are mineral salts, not sodium (common salt). You need to prepare the water used in all water changes outside the aquarium if you use these salts.
Thanksā€¦so I take it GH is more important to rift cichlids than KH? Would combining Epsom salts and calcareous sand work? That seems like the most straight forward combination to me. Iā€™m slightly wary of using the premade cichlid salts as I think the cost will rack up fairly quickly
 
Thanksā€¦so I take it GH is more important to rift cichlids than KH? Would combining Epsom salts and calcareous sand work? That seems like the most straight forward combination to me. Iā€™m slightly wary of using the premade cichlid salts as I think the cost will rack up fairly quickly

GH is crucial to all fish, both those that must have the minerals in the water in order for their physiology to function (rift lake cichlids for example) and those soft-water species that do not require these minerals and will be slowly killed depending upon the level and the species.

Coral is calcium, Epsom is magnesium. But there are other minerals involved. Also, with both coral and magnesium, it would not be easy to measure each...GH will increase with either, but together, by how much? And which one? If you intend additives, use the right one to avoid risking the fish. The cichlid salts can be measured accurately.

The rift lake sand is a permanent change. Calcium and magnesium (and whatever else) is slowly dissolved for years. Carribsea make some, they say they last for the life of the aquarium. Here's the link; you will note they have different sands for different species/lakes.
 
Seachem makes an additive called "cichlid salt" that is easy to use and has a balance of minerals. I used it for my rainbowfish.
Yeah, I saw thisā€¦I normally like seachem stuff but theyā€™re so overpriced. Iā€™m wondering if doing a 250l water change will become costly in time.
 
GH is crucial to all fish, both those that must have the minerals in the water in order for their physiology to function (rift lake cichlids for example) and those soft-water species that do not require these minerals and will be slowly killed depending upon the level and the species.

Coral is calcium, Epsom is magnesium. But there are other minerals involved. Also, with both coral and magnesium, it would not be easy to measure each...GH will increase with either, but together, by how much? And which one? If you intend additives, use the right one to avoid risking the fish. The cichlid salts can be measured accurately.

The rift lake sand is a permanent change. Calcium and magnesium (and whatever else) is slowly dissolved for years. Carribsea make some, they say they last for the life of the aquarium. Here's the link; you will note they have different sands for different species/lakes.
Yeah, fair point. I guess a homemade combination is likely to be less consistent. Iā€™ll have a look at the caribsea sand. Could be a nice and easy fix
 
So, thinking this throughā€¦ if I used a calcareous substrate, like caribsea, thatā€™ll release enough minerals to keep my water hard. However, thereā€™ll probably be fluctuations every time I do a water change. Is this where bicarbonate of soda comes in? Would itā€™s buffering effect stop my ph and hardness fluctuating every time I do a water change?
 
Bicarbonate of soda (aka baking soda) will only increase KH. Bicarbonate of soda contains only sodium and carbonate. GH (hardness) is calcium and magnesium so bicarb will have no effect on GH.
 
So, thinking this throughā€¦ if I used a calcareous substrate, like caribsea, thatā€™ll release enough minerals to keep my water hard. However, thereā€™ll probably be fluctuations every time I do a water change. Is this where bicarbonate of soda comes in? Would itā€™s buffering effect stop my ph and hardness fluctuating every time I do a water change?

Bicarbonate of soda should not be used long term. It is at best temporary, and it is not the sort of thing you need here. EDIT: @Essjay posted in the interim and mentioned what I was forgetting. I do remember an article by Dr. Stan Weitzman on soft water fish and he mentioned that bicarbonate is not or should not be used long-term as a buffering.

As for the fluctuation, you would have to do it and see. Once a tank's biological system is established, the system tends to remain fairly stable. Smaller volume water changes might be necessary. I last did this back in the 1980's but other members are likely dealing with this now, they may be better able to advise on specifics.
 
ok, thanks guys. Iā€™ll probably just the sand first to see how well it works. If that does the job, then no need to play around with anything else
 

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