ID this Algae?

[NathanWilliams415]

Can someone ID this brown Algae for me so I can learn how to treat it? I have to scrub really hard to get it off of the plants so it made me think it wasn't diatoms this time.

 

[Byron]

There is an imbalance of light/nutrients. You're correct, this is not diatoms. More data will help us advise what to resolve in the balance. Light (data, duration), plant additives if any, water changes. A photo of the entire tank can help.

 

[NathanWilliams415]

78°F, light is usually on 7-10hrs a day. I dont use any fertilizers or additives. Feed once per day usually. The light is the stock LED that came with the tank from TopFin. I know for sure I have blue green algae that I have mostly gotten rid of but some is still in there. I now have this brown algae on the plants and some green algae on everything else.

The green algae doesn't bother me as much because I can remove it, but the brown algae on the plants I would like to eradicate.

 

[NathanWilliams415]

Also i do 20 - 30% water change and gravel vac once a week.

 

[Byron]

I know nothing about the intensity or spectrum of the LED light, but assuming it is not an issue there are a few things that will help. Plants must have red and blue light to drive photosynthesis, and of the two red is more important; LED is often lacking red and higher in blue, but from the photos I would not think this is an issue here.

On the light, lessening the duration is one thing, and always have it consistent every day. A simple timer is best for this; fish are also highly affected by the overhead light so this helps them too. I would suggest a period of 7 or 8 hours of tank light, the same time each day. This can bee whatever works for you; obviously we want the tank lighting on when we are generally there to enjoy thee aquarium, so any period of 7-8 hours is fine. There must be a period of total darkness, no room light or daylight, during each 24 hour period; normally this would be during the early hours of the day, say 11 pm to 6 am or similar.

Blue green algae is actually cyanobacteria, not an algae, and it is caused by organics in the presence of light. Increasing the volume of the weekly partial water change will help this and algae in general. This is because the increased water changes, including gravel vacuuming (in open areas) and keeping the filter well cleaned, reduces organics. I do 60-75% of each of my tanks' volume once a week.

A comprehensive plant fertilizer is a good thing normally, as it ensure all nutrients are available. The "balance" I mentioned previously involves light (intensity/spectrum/duration) and 17 nutrients plants need. If any one of these is missing, photosynthesis will slow and that is when algae has the advantage because it is not as fussy respecting light or nutrients. All of these occur naturally with fish that are being fed, but there may not be sufficient amounts of some of them, which is where a comprehensive additive helps. However, I have caused algae by adding fertilizers in some cases, so one has to be careful. A small bottle of a complete liquid fertilizer used once per week, minimally, might help. Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium is what I have been using for years now; another similar is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. The fish load is not great so this might help.

Another suggestion is floating plants. Not only do these help reduce the light getting into the aquarium, they provide a much appreciated "cover" for the fish. They are also rapid assimilators of nutrients which helps starve algae. Provided that balance is there.

 

[NathanWilliams415]

It's also a fairly new thing. My plants were clean around 3 weeks ago. I've had these S repens plants for around 3 months.

This pic was it around 3- 4 weeks ago

 

[NathanWilliams415]

So if fertilizer could help it out compete the algae would root tabs possibly be a better option than liquid fertilizer in my case? I've never used any kind if fertilizer before.

 

[Byron]

Substrate tabs are generally better. For one thing, they do not release nutrients into the upper water column so algae is hampered. I tend to use them next to my larger plants, like swords, but you could cut them in half and place them around. Seachem Flourish Tabs are about the best. The API tabs have bad reviews from others. I do not know how Seachem get the nutrient release solved, but it does seem to be true. I have used these and reduced liquid fert and algae diminished but the plants seemed better. Of course, substrate tabs are no benefit to floating plants or plants not rooted in the substrate.

From the photos now, I still suggest the same (post #5), with the addition of substrate tabs.

 

[NathanWilliams415]

Okay thank you. I'll look online for some Black Friday deals. Hopefully something good goes on sale!