I Think Hes Dieing! :( Is It White Spots? (ramjets Not Looking So

[Netty]

Just found this which might explain what the plec has. This was the response to someone who's plec had blisters like your's has.

Gas bubble disease:
Gas Bubble Disease is caused by a sudden dramatic change in gas pressure in the aquarium. This can happen by changing too much water at one time or by adding cold water to the fish tank. Gas bubbles form in the fins and skin of the fish. The bubbles look like blisters and are very easy to see. The skin will crackle if you run your finger across it. If not treated in time, gas bubbles in the bloodstream will kill the fish. The treatment is to add alot of aeration to the aquarium. Lights should be left off to minimize stress. If you see alot of bubbles that have already popped, consider adding a general antibiotic to guard against secondary infection

 

[electric yellow]

The air stone is nearlly going full speed to increase air. I only had it on low previouslly. I did a 30% water change before meidcating for ich, turned the heater up 2degrees to 28C. I am going tossing up whether to do a water change today and then start treating with Pimafix which is the internal and external bacteria med.

 

[squiremaster]

according to a library book I read, It looks like Ramjet has fungus.

 

[LauraFrog]

No, it's not fungus, it's columnaris. Pimafix is not going to do anything, it's just not strong enough. TBH I think he's probably too far gone to do much, because I have had fish look just like that and been on them with antibiotics looking exactly like Ramjet in the photos and still lost them. But I think that may have been a worse strain than what you have because this has been going on for some time, and I had an 18 hour kill go through... that was awful, lost half my breeding stock and ended up having to euthanise seven fish. Not nice.

Antibiotics are the only thing that's going to give him a chance, you can get tetracycline from virtually every aquatic retailer up north where I live. Tetracycline will work, so will endomycin, kanamycin, streptomycin or erythromycin, or oxytetracycline (oxytet). The sooner you can get some the better the chance of saving him... I have never seen anything like the plecs, no idea what might have caused that.

*hugs* sorry about this, I know how stressful it is... I really hope he pulls through for you.

 

[electric yellow]

Ok. I will take off to the aquarium tomorrow. So should i not treat for Ich/white spot anymore? I havent done a water change today. I was going to but i didnt. I tested the water and allt he ph, nitrate and nitrite came back fine. I want to do a water change to see if that helps him but he didnt even like being put in the box today so i took him out again. I have a net i can put him in, which when rested on the tank falls below water level. Maybe a net might make him more comfy?

I dont know what to do. I want to try to save him but he looks so sad and terrible. He didnt even give me a flare today.

NB: just spoke to my fish man and he doesnt have Tetracycline but he has aquaricycline. Is that ok?

 

[LauraFrog]

It IS tetracycline, that's one of the brand names it's sold under. Theoretically any antibiotic would work but tetracycline is the one I have used on columnaris with some success.
I don't know much about mixing meds... the worst thing is that he has whitespot and columnaris at the same time. I'd leave the whitespot med until you can get the antibiotics.

 

[electric yellow]

Yeah thats the thing. He has both at the same time He is still eating though which is working in his favour. Ive been dosing him with white spot meds the last week and there has been zero improvement. Not even in a reduction of spots. Im hoping he pulls through the night.

 

[WILDER]

have you used the full dose of the whitespot med as that could be making him worse if he can't tolerate it.

The thing growing out of him is it on the fins or body as it hard to tell in the pic.
Anchor worm has a forked tail but usually the body of the parasite its like s strand of hair but but the body in the pic looks thick.

Shine a torch on the fish with tank lights out to see if you can see any yellow spots or rusty coloured varnish, or gold dusting on the fish.

 

[WILDER]

The yellow bisters as they a see through colour but yellow, Yellow spots can be velvet to yellow grub.

This is a pic of anchor worm on a fish.

 

[Colin_T]

I have a question, however. How did the white spot get in there? Have you recently added anything to the tank - new fish, plants, etc?
I have been told in the past that if your tank does not have ich, it won't develop until/unless something new carrying it is introduced and wondering if this is true.

yep that is true about whitespot not being in a tank and needs to be introduced with something like a contaminated fish, plant or water. For the whitespot to appear something new that was carrying the whitespot parasite must have been added to the tank in the last 2 to 4 weeks.

-----------------------------------------------------

The male Betta appears to have anchor worm and whitespot. The suckermouth catfish have whitespot and could develop the anchorworm if they survive the whitespot.

You will need to keep treating the tank for whitespot and when it has gone, then you can treat for anchorworm. Alternatively you can physically pull the anchorworm out of the fish. Use a pair of eyebrow tweezers and grab the anchorworm firmly. Then pull it out of the fish, (the fish will need to be lifted out of the water to do this). The area will bleed for a moment but should stop pretty quickly. Make sure you get all the worm out of the fish and don't snap it off half way.

Make sure you treat the tank for the correct amount of water.
To work out the volume of water in the tank
measure Length x Width x Height in cm
divide by 1000
equals volume in litres

When measuring the height, measure from the top of the gravel to the top of the water level. If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove them before measuring the height.

Before you re-treat the tank do a 50% water change and complete gravel clean. This will reduce the gunk in the tank and allow the medication to work more effectively. It will also lower the pathogen count in the water and mean there are less nasties around to infect the fish.

Remove carbon from the filter before treating otherwise it will absorb the medication out of the water.

Keep treating the fish for a week after all the spots have gone.

 

[WILDER]

The interpet med anti crustaceon med for anchor worm destroys benefical bacterial in the filter.
Here a link to a waterlife med but dosn't say anything about destroying beneifical bacterial in the filter.
http/www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/parazin.htm

Anchor Worm (a.k.a. Lernaea)





Symptoms:

Infected fish can be seen with whitish red worm-like threads, about ¼ inch long. Trailing at the rear of female parasites are two long, tube-like egg sacs. The parasites can be found anywhere on the body of the fish, including the eyes, gills and fins. Raised ulcers may appear at the site of attachment. Consequently, secondary bacterial infections may occur. The tale-tale sign that your fish is infected will be if you notice it rubbing or scraping against objects in the aquarium. It does this in an effort to remove the parasite.



Cause:

The parasitic crustacean Lernaea. Lernaea burrow into the muscle and gill tissue of fish, often times reaching as deeply as the internal organs, causing severe damage. Heavy infestations can cause significant weight loss and death.



Treatment:

You should kill all visible worms by dabbing them with a cotton swab, dipped in Potassium Permanganate or an anti-parasitic medication. Then you should carefully remove them from the fish with tweezers. You should kill the parasites before removing them because if they have burrowed deeply, removing them alive could cause the fish pain and significant physical damage. Once you’ve removed the parasite, you should then dab the wounds with Methylene Blue to prevent secondary bacterial infections from occurring. It is highly recommended that you feed the fish with medicated food. The tank will also need to be treated to kill any unseen, free-swimming juvenile parasites. You can use Fluke Tabs, Clout, Paragon or Trifon for this.

 

[Colin_T]

don't use Fluke tabs with the catfish in the tank. It will kill them. In fact be very careful when using any anti-parasite medication with catfish because most contain Trichlorphon (also sold as Masoten or Dipterex) and this stuff is lethal to most fish, especially scaleless fishes like catfish and loaches.

 

[WILDER]

The poster from australia. Given him a link to a uk med.

 

[liamtaggz]

Hows it going now?? i wasent even given the oppertunity to fix my fishes problem, i just bought him on friday 8pm, he was fine and even chassed my neons around for 2 days, woke up this morning and i coudnt find him. just got back from work there and he was struggling to breath and an entire section of his fins was gone, i could see the skeletal part of his fin!!!
There was nothing wrong with him last nite, im sure of it cus he was still chassing the neons around, fighting fit. So i read a few articles on different websites and they said to add salt and change some of the tank water but it was too late, i always seem to have problems with betas and others. I only have small neons in the tank so he cant have been attacked, also i cleaned the tank the day before i bought him. I must have been an infection taken from the pet shop.

Im completly ragin bucasue this always happens, its hard to enjoy a this hobby at times, i find that when i pick a favourite it will almost certianly die. Ciclids are the way forward i think althought more expensive and would require more tank space. Hope you have better luck than i did , i think it will be my last BETA btw beauty has a price and i would hate to become realy fond of one, like the last, only to have to flush it..... Googluck

 

[CeeJayy]

Hows it going now?? i wasent even given the oppertunity to fix my fishes problem, i just bought him on friday 8pm, he was fine and even chassed my neons around for 2 days, woke up this morning and i coudnt find him. just got back from work there and he was struggling to breath and an entire section of his fins was gone, i could see the skeletal part of his fin!!!
There was nothing wrong with him last nite, im sure of it cus he was still chassing the neons around, fighting fit. So i read a few articles on different websites and they said to add salt and change some of the tank water but it was too late, i always seem to have problems with betas and others. I only have small neons in the tank so he cant have been attacked, also i cleaned the tank the day before i bought him. I must have been an infection taken from the pet shop.

Im completly ragin bucasue this always happens, its hard to enjoy a this hobby at times, i find that when i pick a favourite it will almost certianly die. Ciclids are the way forward i think althought more expensive and would require more tank space. Hope you have better luck than i did , i think it will be my last BETA btw beauty has a price and i would hate to become realy fond of one, like the last, only to have to flush it..... Googluck

Maybe this happened because Bettas shouldnt really be kept with neons because neons nip. What other fish do you have in your tank?