lol, sorry but that was just a funny statement that made me laugh. Nothing else was written but "well that sucks".
For FBTgirl2
if you reduce the feeding to once every couple of days, turn the temperature down to about 24C, then the fish won't need as many water changes and you can do less maintenance on the tanks. Alternatively put the fish into bigger tanks with more water and they won't need to b cleaned as often.
Actually, Colin, I thought that comment summed it up nicely.
It does suck.
FBTgirl2,
in case you might be interested in keeping your fish but going low maintenance, I've included some info mostly on the Walstad Method.
It's not necessarily the best or most informative, but I don't have time to dig at the moment so I'm slopping this down, in case.
Dan Quackenbush
[URL="http
/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/par...tm#Introduction"]http/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/par...tm#Introduction[/URL]
... Comparing a plant to a plastic filter, mechanically, the filter wins the contest because plants can't remove any waste from the aquarium. They can, however, convert much of this waste to plant food.
Most experts would agree that biological filtering (using aerobic bacteria) is the most important means of maintaining water quality in the fish tank. The biological filter requires that the toxins produced by fish waste and excess food be broken down in stages via the nitrogen cycle. For new hobbyists, this means that different types of bacteria must break down deadly ammonia (or ammonium) produced in the decay of the waste, to a slightly less toxic nitrite and finally the least toxic nitrate. Plants use the same bacteria system. The roots and base of a plant are loaded with good guy bacteria and, in fact, plants are often used to start (seed) new aquariums. But, plants have other benefits not found in filters. Plants love ammonia and consume large quantities with no need to wait for it to be broken down by bacteria. Typical biological filters can't break down waste beyond nitrates, so this last by-product tends to accumulate and can become deadly at high levels. Plants, under certain conditions can consume nitrates. Many aquariums also have problems with excess phosphate that filters can't remove. Plants can, and do, remove substantial amounts of phosphate from the water.
Aesthetically, plants certainly look a whole lot better than any filter design I have seen to date. In retrospect, I guess it's not so surprising; after all, Mother Nature has had millions of years to perfect her methods. Plastic filters have not even been around a century. ...
... I have helped perpetuate the myth that you should never locate your aquarium by a window and especially a southern window ( if you live north of the equator). The logic was that it created too much temperature fluctuation and increased algae. It would not surprise me if this mis-information was started by a lighting company. The truth is, the temperature change is slow and the fish will adjust to it with no trouble. It takes more than just light to get alga. If the tank conditions are not right any light will increase alga.
Light from a southern window will out do the highest price lighting known for an aquarium. Depending on how much you get, it could even be to much. Reducing the sun light with partial (tape strips) or a total background on the back and or sides is much cheaper and easier than upgrading to high-tech lighting. Sun light also produces a very pleasing aquarium to look at.
East and west windows also work but for a shorter period of time.
I might point out, if you plan to do a notch plant tank, a southern window is critical. Even though I have a southern window I still use a small light. the reason is you will probably never get 10 hours of solid light. There are times of the year the sun will be over your home, below tree lines, overhangs or other buildings. You also have gray or rainy days. By putting even a little light on a timer I can extend the day to 12 hours for evening viewing. ...
[URL="http/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/part2.htm"]http/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/part2.htm[/URL]
... In a fish tank without live plants, the fish have zero ability to improve their water. In fact, their entire metabolism is geared to turn the aquarium into a cesspool. Without a filter and partial water changes, the fish will die a toxic death of their own doing. Even with filters and water changes, it always seems fish tanks are close to impending danger. Most disasters can strike without any change to the water clarity. For this reason, I have been a big advocate of just about any test kit available, in hopes of spotting water quality problems before they occur.
When it comes to plants, you can use all the same test kits and at least 4 more. They include; iron(Fe), Carbonate hardness ( K or dCH),CO2, and phosphate (PO4). Naturally, I bought them all. Unnaturally for me, I seldom use them, with one exception, and that's the pH test kit. I will not suggest you should stop using test kits, but I can't resist telling you why I seldom do.
I know that statement is going to generate a lot of e-mail heat so let me defend my position a little. First of all, if you were to own all the test kits out there, your talking several hundred dollars and a lot of time to use them. Once you have determined hardness and pH, you have a good handle as to the quality of water you have for plants or at least what corrections your going to have to make. There is a great deal of chemistry change that goes on in a low-tech aquarium, but once the low-tech aquarium ages a bit, you will find that most of the big changes occur from morning to night. If you made the same test at the same time each day, you will find little variance from day to day.
As I stated before, in a typical filtered FISH tank without live plants, the fish are only capable of degrading their aquarium. When fish and plants are combined, a wonderful partnership is born. The various poisons that fish produce are cherished as food by the plants. They especially love what can be the most toxic, ammonia. Even the CO2 that the fish produce, but have no use for, is sucked up by the plants. In effect, the potential toxins are now improving the water quality.
To my knowledge, no one has ever come up with an exact formula for partial water changes that is proven to be just the right amount, at just the right frequency, and that will work best for all aquariums. My seat of the pants recommendation therefore seems as valid as anyone else's. In a low-tech plant aquarium (not a fish tank), I do partial water changes based mostly on the clarity of the water. I have one 20 gal, with a small filter, that probably averages two 30% partial water changes a month. I have a no-tech tank that went about 8 months before I did a partial water change other than to replace evaporated water. But this is not so easy for a beginner who typically overfeeds.
The point I am trying to make is, that a low-tech plant tank often create such a stable condition that I now rely almost totally on the observation of the plants condition and water clarity as an indicator, instead of test kits. ...
[URL="http/tgvas.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1716"]http/tgvas.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1716[/URL]
... A little background. In 1999 Diana Walstad wrote the book "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist". Diana is a biologist, a micro-biologist and a technical advisor for the Aquatic Gardeners Association, as well as being a long time aquarist.
The ideas in her book have developed an avid following. Basically, she explains the science behind using the plants themselves as filters in a home aquarium, and how to set up a natural tank using soil, sunlight, minimal water exchanges, no other filters (some water movement, though), high density of plants, moderate stocking of fish, fertilizing only with excess fish flake food and the waste produced by the fish.
It's really a very old method of aquarium keeping - it's what people did in the late 1800's all the way into the 1950's when things like pumps, filters and fluorescent lighting became mass produced. Diana explains why it works. It's a very interesting book - a bit technical in places. I'll loan it to anyone who wants to read it. ...
[URL="http/www.barrreport.com/general-plant-to...na-walstad.html"]http/www.barrreport.com/general-plant-to...na-walstad.html[/URL]
... Hi,
I have three "Walstad" type tanks going, one for more than 2 years. They are all different. One needs nitrate nutrient dosing every few months; the others less frequently. (I determine when more nitrate is needed with a test kit.) All get some Flourish occasionally.
I am quite satisfied with that approach. My main problem is that some of the plants spread too fast (crypts, E. tennelus, and S. sublata, among others) and I do not like to prune. Over time this results in a natural but messy aquarium.
I also have experienced algae problems, particularly in the first month or so.
My soon-to-be-set-up next tank will be a soil-based tank, but I am also experimenting with inert substrates and water column dosing. ...
[URL="http/aquariumsblog.info/238-diana-walsta...o-planted-tanks"]http/aquariumsblog.info/238-diana-walsta...o-planted-tanks[/URL]
... The end result is a tank that looks very different from any Dutch or Nature style aquarium, but that requires almost no maintenance, while maintaining a lush planted look. The types of plants available to someone starting an "el Natural" fish tank are somewhat limited, since lots of plants require high light and fertilization, but algae is rarely a problem. Unlike Dutch and Nature style aquariums, there is no set school for plant placement or composition of hardscape. This approach is also not designed for someone who likes to rescape their tank every few months, as moving plants around is difficult to do without disturbing the potting soil underneath the gravel. The natural soil substrate is probably the most volatile part of an "el Natural" style fish tank, and there are lots of do's and don'ts explained in Diana's book. However, once you get it set up, an "el Natural" style tank can be perfect for someone who is tired of dosing, testing, and re-dosing every day or for someone who just doesn't have the time for a high-tech aquarium. ...
(Problems come when people are unaware of the basic tenets of the method and, in too-common example, use soil which is artificially fertilized or contains too much organic debris which breaks down, producing ammonia...)
[URL="http/forum.nanfa.org/index.php?showtopic=2855"]http/forum.nanfa.org/index.php?showtopic=2855[/URL]
... Do you have any nitrate problems with these? I tried this setup once in a 50 gallon and I couldn't keep the nitrates down. My nitrate test kit showed colors no where near anything on the chart even after water changes and chemicals. After two months my fish ended up getting velvet and a bad case of scratching and labored breathing and all perished. If that wasn't bad, the cleanup was a nightmare - my room smelled like I was hip deep in creek muck for days.
I would like to try it again but I'm not sure what I did wrong the first time. ...
(In later comment: )
... That was my first time ever seeing more than 50 ppm and it kinda scared me so I scurried out and bought some amquel.
I had an inch of soil in the back 3/4 of the tank covered with sand then gravel. I was kind of leaning towards something in the soil. It was some off brand soil I wasn't familiar with, with a lot of woody debris n such...it was the only thing I could find in the dead of winter.
Funny you mentioned that book cause that's where I got the idea. ...
(Another commenter: )
... I have had tropical freshwater and marine tanks. I got to the point where I could not put the time, money needed into the hobby so I went with a Walstad set up using only locally collected plants and fish. Only the tank/stand, lights, and filter are store bought. The collecting trips make for a great family outing and my kids have a ball. The tank has been up for almost a year and is the most successful aquarium I have ever had with very little work involved. I have not lost any fish so far and the plants are doing great. The only algae is a very light coating on the glass that I wipe away every week or two. There is almost no algae growing on the plants, wood, rocks. A while back the plants were not growing well and I started getting some algae growth so I went against all conventional wisdom and increased the food I put into the tank, Conditions in the tank actually quickly improved. I change about 25% of the water every 3 months or so. Mostly out of guilt. I probably don't need to. The main chores are feeding and watching. If you are looking for a very low maintenace aquarium, in my opinion this is a perfect set up. At the beginning it is hard to break old maintenance habits, but things will go much better if just left alone. ...
(And a different person: )
... I packed in non-fertilized soil, some gravel on that, lots of plants and two compact fluorescent lights in my 20L. I've had the tank for maybe 10 months or so and haven't done one water change and I don't use salt or chemicals at all (I replace evaporated water when needed). I have no ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates no matter how much food or fish I put in there. I am a believer for sure. ...
(Comment further down: )
... Keep in mind that if you like a pristine tank and enjoy the tinkering this may not be for you. The filter is used mainly to provide circulation and heavy mechanical filter media is not recommended. Only clean when things are clogging. Carbon use is not recommended. The plants use up ammonia so biological filtration such as bio wheels, etc. should not be used. The waste products provide the plant fertilizer and slower growth is prefered (no CO2 injecters, added ferts). The tank will be more like a natural lake setting so crystal clear water may not be the case. But, if you are looking for a tank you can set up, sit back and enjoy this really works great. This is letting nature take care of itself. ...
(And another comment in response to a question: )
... So, nobody is doing Amano tanks?
Nah, they're a pain in the butt. All that work and they really are only sustainable for a couple of months, tops. Lovely, but I like to spend my time watching the fish, not obsessing over the plants. ...)
[URL="http/www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...na-walstad.html"]http/www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...na-walstad.html[/URL]
[URL="http/www.aquabotanic.com/diana_walstad_gallery.htm"]http/www.aquabotanic.com/diana_walstad_gallery.htm[/URL] ...
[URL="http/naturalaquariums.com/bb/index.php?topic=893.0;all"]http/naturalaquariums.com/bb/index.php?topic=893.0;all[/URL]
... ... When you are discussing zero mechanical filtration, I would assume everyone is performing plenty of water changes. I would also assume everyone is providing plenty of biological filtration as well.
Or, am I missing something?
Re: When to use aeration?
« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2008, 10:09:16 PM »
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Plants make really, really good filters! Another filter isn't required to have a healthy natural planted tank that only needs water changes a few times a year. The soil and other decor provide plenty of surface area for bacteria (biological filtration).
I believe some people besides me use filter such as a HOB for mechanical filtration, water movement and in the rare instance it might be needed, carbon. ...
[URL="http/www.myaquariumclub.com/blogs/"]http/www.myaquariumclub.com/blogs/[/URL]
... One of the monthly aquarium magazines just published an interesting bit of information about cycling a newly established tank to get rid of the ammonia spikes that are deadly to fish. Fish waste, food waste, and plant decay all produce ammonia, which is a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen. Beneficial bacteria, so conventional wisdom goes, convert the ammonia into nitrogen or a nitrogen compound that plants can metabolize. The bacteria, when well established, then eat up and convert all of the ammonia in the aquarium. Getting the bacteria established and doing their thing is what takes all the time of cycling an aquarium. I suppose we’ve all read that before.
The magazine article stated that live plants can control nitrogen spikes from day one. In other words, they say that cycling is not necessary if the aquarium has plenty of live plants. ...
[URL="http/www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biol..._filtration.htm"]http/www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biol..._filtration.htm[/URL]
PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION
by Diana Walstad
Edit: The Typo Queen reigns supreme!
But...I was looking at my fish today. I just can't take them anymore. It is unfair to them and myself. I breed rabbits, I am training my dog plus babysitting dogs. I wish I could take care of them all but I have a betta tank stuffed in the corner of my room!!! I have to say it I cannot do it anymore. I have decided to get rid of all my guppies, my 2 female betta fish, and my Black Moors will go into a 25 gallon as my Betta fish will go into a ten gallon. They will all be free just ask that the person who wants them pays a 15 dollar fee...I wish I could keep them really badly 
But I just can't
