How To Breed Danios?

OK, so be it. I will need to get my supplies together first but I do have an empty tank where I had hoped to breed some killies. They just never got very far. Will need to move filters around first because that 20 gallon tank has a HOB filter that obviously can't run with low water levels. I suppose a layer of marbles over my plant substrate would work OK too. Being a mature tank, there are bound to already be lots of native infusoria in the tank that would just need a food source to increase in number. Next up is to get my Herotilapia fry big enough to move out so that I have a conditioning location for the females. I already have a tank to condition the males in. So after that an initial stocking and a breeding experiment is due.
 
OK, so be it. I will need to get my supplies together first but I do have an empty tank where I had hoped to breed some killies. They just never got very far. Will need to move filters around first because that 20 gallon tank has a HOB filter that obviously can't run with low water levels. I suppose a layer of marbles over my plant substrate would work OK too. Being a mature tank, there are bound to already be lots of native infusoria in the tank that would just need a food source to increase in number. Next up is to get my Herotilapia fry big enough to move out so that I have a conditioning location for the females. I already have a tank to condition the males in. So after that an initial stocking and a breeding experiment is due.

Hah!!.. mentioning the filters,.... is one aspect I did not mention.....(I have another edit coming up)... During the spawning and hatching process.... only an airstone in the position I have mentioned.... After freeswimming (which would be on the third day after spawning)... You refill the tank by 1" per day, (having started off at 4"... as stated)...On the 4th day you will then be at 8" and only then, you disconnect your airstone and connect your tubing to a sponge filter. (doing it earlier than that, ... your fry will be sucked up by the sponge filter (or any other filter).

Oops! sorry Alex271.... I have hijacked your topic here, but hopefully it answers some of your questions as well.
 
wow way to go,fab thread full of info :good:

keep us informed oldman on how it goes :)

Well done ludwig :)
 
It’s been a while since I last bred Danios of any sort, but this is an account of how I did it: (this is also the method I used for most Characins and other egg scatterers…i.e. red eye Tetras, Black widows, - mainly all non adhesive egg fish)

pH was not much of a focus area as Danios are reasonably flexible in ranges from 6.8 to around 7.4 and the temperature ranged between 25 & 28 deg C.

Ideally, 3 tanks (24”x12”x12”) produces the best results for mass spawnings … one tank to condition the males, one tank to condition the females and one tank to spawn them in…. (I used 3 tanks because I had them available, but you can get away with using 1 tank with a partition between the male and female sides which is removed when you want to spawn them)….I always used two more males than females i.e. 5 males to 3 females, 7 males to 5 females etc.)

At least a week before the spawning date, I’d separate the males and females and “condition” them (mainly) on live Daphnia, Newly hatched brine shrimp and bloodworms.

The spawning media may vary from marbles covering the whole base area, to a cluster of thick plants (hornwort or Cabomba) bundled in the darkest corner & weighed down by a small stone. (Plastic spawning mats are also effective).

I find that the best positioning of your aeration is directly in the v of the back panel on the same side where you've clustered your targetted spawning area. A medium flow which visibly circulates the water in this area also seems to stimulate breeding to some extent

Two days before I intend to place males and females together, I would add 4 drops of Liquifry to the spawning tank, so that infusoria can start developing as first foods for the fry when they hatch.

On the evening before the “planned” spawning event, I would drain the water to around 4” depth, cover the tank (in darkness) if the light cannot be switched off, and set my alarm for sunrise the next morning.

When I remove the covers in the morning (or switch on the light), I’d fill the tank to around 8” depth with water at a slightly lower temp than the water in the tank, and remove the partition between males & females, or if more tanks was used, transfer the males to the female tank. Spawning will start immediately and carry on for almost 4 hours.

Observe periodically as one or more fish may be “spawned out” long before the rest and then start egg hunting and eating them…. If you observe any such culprit, remove them immediately, as they will eat many, many eggs. (your intervention will not stop the spawning activity)

After some time, you will observe that most of them would have no further interest in spawning, (and all indulge in egg-eating) at which time you remove them all to their original quarters.

When all spawners have been removed, syphon water out from the top on the opposite side of your "targetted" spawn area to a depth of 4",- just making sure that none of your spawn receptical protrude above water level - (so that you can just top up 1" of water per day after the fry becomes free swimming and you do not have the risk of syphoning them out when doing water changes during the first week).

During the spawning and hatching process.... only an airstone is necessary in the position I have mentioned.... After freeswimming (which would be on the third day after spawning)... You refill the tank by 1" per day, (having started off at 4"... as stated)...On the 4th day you will then be at 8" and only then, you disconnect your airstone and connect your tubing to a sponge filter. (doing it earlier than that, ... your fry will be sucked up by the sponge filter (or any other filter).

And then…. Congratulations!!!... you’ve achieved your first spawning…. As easy as that. (the fish will be ready for their next spawning about 8 days later if the same procedure is applied.)


I've Re-editted the above to include some important points on filtration which I ommitted during the first attempt.... (as I said... it's been a long time since I last bred Danios & I may even recall some more issues for inclussion)
 
Now I have become interested in trying it. I have never tried egg scatterers before so it is time. My pH is well above 7.4 but I have heard of people near me having some success with zebras. Would this method work with rasboras? Those are fish that I can actually enjoy keeping. I find newborn food easy to have, there are always microworm cultures in my fish room. I do like the idea of giving the tank a head start with some liqui-fry though. I may try that with the "golden pearls" that are meant to be a first food for egg layer fry.
Go for it OM47! As you know from my writings, I had basements full of tanks when I was a kid but didn't have access to good information about biofilters and other basic things. Even I, back then, had varied random success with egg scatterers like zebras and with gouramis, but I was a kid and didn't take notes or have the patience to reproduce situations and follow procedures carefully, so it never turned into a regular little operation as it could have if I had set goals or even been part of a fish club or something. Anyway, that makes me think not all egg layers are impossible and to easily believe you could have success with info like ludwig is helping with. WD
 
you could have success with info like ludwig is helping with. WD

I've had some insight into your background and experience WD, so coming from you I'd take that as a compliment!... Frankly though.... Having now written down part of my autobiography..... even I am tempted to go out there & get myself some 10 or 12 Giant Danios.... (as I remember, they produced more fry per capita than the rest).... I'm tempted!!!
 
The blueish cast and deeper yellow accents in the patterns on a male giant danio can be really pretty when they are settled in a good environment (I've had some once) and I'm sure those colors would be even richer during breeding! There's probably not that many hobbyists out there with some big tanks and desire to try it, so it would be great to hear of your attempts.

I've been finding it a lot of fun finally getting some experienced explanations behind the stuff I wondered about as a kid and tried really hard to read about or otherwise understand. I only had books and typically one or two LFS owners in whatever town I was living in at the time, as we moved around the country. I've lost the huge majority of my life in the in-between years when I didn't practice the hobby, so I'll never be one of the ones like you, able to relate real hands-on experiences with the confidence that comes from actually doing it. I figure my best contribution is being a bit of a "scribe" or "club secretary" if you will, sort of reading, repeating and editing the good things I read here, mixing it in with the bits of direct experience from those tanks of my youth and my son's little tanks I have now and trying to be honest about knowing or not knowing things. (of course just when I really get going my wife gives me more dishes to wash, so to speak, lol)

~~waterdrop~~
 
And of course, my greatest challenge in the whole venture would be in getting some breeding stocks.. living some 600km (return trip) from the centres where such stocks are available.... But, if I'm desperate... I'll make a plan!
 
Finding good stock will probably be my easiest task Ludwig. I am trying very hard to build the kind of experience that WD is talking about. I have bred and still breed several different livebearers but my egg layer experience is very limited. I did the usual betta breeding as a kid and lately have had some success with rainbow cichlids, to the point that I have trouble selling my rainbow fry. I have never done gouramis but they look like bettas to me, in terms of technique, with a little less conspecific aggression. The scatterers will be a whole new experience for me and thus will add to my personal knowledge and experience. If you really want to learn, you need to go for it WD. Set up a few tanks and try out some of the easier fish, it adds a whole new dimension to fish keeping and is rewarding in its own right.
 
Ludwig Venter wrote:
And of course, my greatest challenge in the whole venture would be in getting some breeding stocks.. living some 600km (return trip) from the centres where such stocks are available.... But, if I'm desperate... I'll make a plan!
...And to think I just sent off a grad student to Johannesburg last week :lol: (but of course you can't send live animals across the borders)

Finding good stock will probably be my easiest task Ludwig. I am trying very hard to build the kind of experience that WD is talking about. I have bred and still breed several different livebearers but my egg layer experience is very limited. I did the usual betta breeding as a kid and lately have had some success with rainbow cichlids, to the point that I have trouble selling my rainbow fry. I have never done gouramis but they look like bettas to me, in terms of technique, with a little less conspecific aggression. The scatterers will be a whole new experience for me and thus will add to my personal knowledge and experience. If you really want to learn, you need to go for it WD. Set up a few tanks and try out some of the easier fish, it adds a whole new dimension to fish keeping and is rewarding in its own right.
Believe me, I went for it in the earlier days OM, any number of my smaller tanks were breeding experiments. Sadly, I'm strictly limited by the wife currently and extra tanks are out of the question for now. As children go off to college though I hope a place for a bigger display tank might open up. Anyway, I'm glad I have you guys so I can enjoy the stories and fish pictures vicariously. WD
 
1 more thing. Do I want a glass divider to divide the male and female danios.
 
1 more thing. Do I want a glass divider to divide the male and female danios.

You can use a glass devider... I normally used an 8mm thick perspex sheet with hundreds of 8mm holes drilled through it to allow some water exchange between the various compartments.
 

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