Did you calibrate the heater? Many (well, some, I have no idea which do and which don't) heaters have a variable adjustment separating whatever is giving you the numerical feedback versus the actual rheostat that is adjusting the "set point" (which you determine by observing when the light goes on or of as Kat mentioned.)
For instance, a common design is to have the post that extends from the rheostat be capped with a knob with temperature degree numbers on it. The user then rotates the knob so that the the desired temperature number matches a pointer that is not on the knob. The bit that is often overlooked is that the "cap" of the knob can be separately adjusted to "calibrate" where the numbers are relative to the actual post part. (Remember, this is just an example - there are different designs for different heaters.)
Anyway, the "calibration" of course requires that the actual "taken as correct" temperature come of a separate thermometer: one reads the thermometer and turns the rheostat just to the point of the heater lamp going on or off and then separately adjusts the "cap" to the temperature number that was taken from the thermometer. Ideally the manufacturer should instruct you in this process but sometimes this is missed.
Apologies for the above detail as you likely know or have done all this already but I just thought I'd mention it. Any sort of warm environment in the 28, 29, 30, 31 C range is going to be more encouraging to the autotrophic bacteria than if the water was down at fishkeeping temperatures or below. The bacteria grow a little faster at the warmer temperatures. Discussions with scientists who grow these things seem to put the best compromise temperature at 29C/84F as the optimals are a little different for the two species.
~~waterdrop~~